Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Right, maybe that's what mz means: the brake is operating ok, but it doesn't slow the bike. Could be that the pads got contaminated too. I thought he meant that there was no piston operation.

 

There could be air in there too, so everything is marginal. A good thorough clean-up of caliper, pitons/pads (check thickness, they're slim to start with), brake rotor, lever and rod; flush new fluid through; reassemble clean. Won't take long and should sort it or it will show the problem.

Posted

I'm outa town for a couple of days,so I can't give you any more info till I get back

But I didn't do any service on it or put any fluids or lubricants near it.Pads were well within wear marks and operating normally.NO brake ,no power.Just detached it from swingarm to get tire in and out.Seems weird that it would stop working after doing that.I dont use the rear much out on the road but need it for leaving my house which is a downhill gravel road for and 1/4 mile to the main road and slow turnarounds/parking lot maneuvers.

Posted

:stupid:

Pump it 20 times!

But your description of "No brake, no power." seems to indicate contaminated pads, otherwise you probably would of said the brake pedal is spongy or just sinks.

It is possible for the brake pedal lever to be blocked by the exhaust.

More far fetched possibilities are that the pads fell out or got wedged, or the pistons took the opportunity to mess with your head and seize up.

Keep us posted when you return.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks d,

Pumped it 20 times and got pressure back up!

  • 8 years later...
Posted

Hi guys!
I have a problem that appeared when reasembling rear wheel by my mechanic.
He changed rear wheel and brake pads. And, after reassembling then, rear wheel is braked permanently by inner pad. So it seems that rear wheel is displaced toward right hand. Figure number 1 is a simple scheme of the problem.
So, it looks like something is missing in the right side of rear wheel.  Asked the mechanic about right spacer, he told me that he edientify it and he is sure he put it in place.
According to mechanic, displacement looks very very small. But enough for braking rear wheel with brand new pads.
I post too a couple of pics about exploded diagrams to make easyer your commentaries(Fiures number 2 and 3), and my understanding. And what is stated in official manual (Figure number 4).

Thanks in advance!
Best regards.
Figure nº 1
13ac233cf6b3d963582ec3d39e9a8afao.jpg

Figure number 2

e1ce9780dab421a5f11ed59c9a5ac9d8o.jpg

 

Figure number 3

cafdf8569dceaa46b7bbc5965bd7a57ao.jpg

 

Figure number 4

c9ce67ce8e78f9d0ab728b3803ef5e91o.jpg

 

Posted

He changed the rear wheel ? Do you mean he installed a different wheel ?

Posted

The inner spacer that goes between the splines and rear drive is missing. Easy thing to drop.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

He changed the rear wheel ? Do you mean he installed a different wheel ?

Sorry Carl.

I mean, rear tire. He changed rear tire.

 

The inner spacer that goes between the splines and rear drive is missing. Easy thing to drop.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for your answer.

I asume you talk about "Shim F"?  as it is stated in manual

Is this the only choice for this  problem? I ask this becouse mechanic says that he is sure he put in place this spacer.

Could you place help me to identify this spacer in exploded diagrams?

Thank you in advance, and sorry for so many questions.

Posted

That's correct. Doesn't matter if he's sure, mistakes happen. It's needs to come apart. Takes 5 minutes to pull the rear wheel.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...