Tank Capacity

[VR6Dave]

I was pushing the limits of range on my bike and was confident I could make it further until it started to sputter on the highway. I pulled off and it would not fire. <_ i could hear some fuel but not much. was able to limp it the next exit and put gallons in it. problem is light never came on. apart from a possible burned out bulb what else can check sensor easy get had tank suck for while cured with larger triumph tip over valve. have damaged my bike an ballabio.>

 

Dave

[richard100t]

You may have forgotten to plug the sensor back in when you put in the tipover valve.

[docc]

I was never able to get more than 5.1 US gallons in my 2000 Sport. I guess those late model tanks are really better.

 

I always rely on the "tip-slosh" reserve. My tank holds maybe 0.8 gallons in the right side. A deep 'tip-slosh' will spill enough fuel into the left side fuel pick-up to make it down the road a considerable distance. WFO throttle goes further . . .

 

Do the later tanks 'tip-slosh' ??

[Guest ratchethack]

The old tip-slosh will get you a ways, but it won't get you nearly as far as .8 gal would, Docc. The fuel circuit constantly circulates fuel from the left-hand side back to the right-hand side.

 

I've spent considerable time trying to figure out a way to re-plumb things to eliminate the "wasted" remaining fuel. No way I can think of without holing the tank for another port, or running a complex, custom fuel line inside the fuel line.

 

If you plumbed an extension off the fuel pressure regulator extended over the hump to the left-hand side inside the tank, you'd still have fuel trapped on the RHS, but at least you'd be able to tip-slosh it over for a more complete use of the .8 gal "reserve". . .

[docc]

I've gotten dizzy making plumbing diagrams to get that fuel, too. An inline regulator and second petcock with a cross over line would do it, but it's messy and the mini regulators are pricey . . .

[VR6Dave]

I have checked to make sure its plugged in, going over the bike before a trip to CO. It was plugged in so now I'll check the bulb. If that's not it does anyone have recommendations? How can I check the low fuel sender/sensor? Thanks.

 

 

Dave

[raz]

Check it with an ohm-meter. If it's broken I bet it will show infinite resistance. Note that the bulb wattage is more or less critical (too high will light up too soon or always, too low - or a LED - will never light up). That is if the Ballabio still use the thermistor type sender, I'm not sure.

 

Anyway if you short the sender connector pins (bike side, not sender side) to each other, the bulb should light up.

[Bruce Reader]

Couldn't you just put a new manual petcock where the regulator is and put the regulator on the lhs in the fuel light sender spot. Then run a line under the spine from right to left with a t piece fitting ? would this be a problem with an efi pressurised fuel delivery system ?

You could do without the warning on the dash as you now have 3 ltrs of 'reserve fuel from the right when you want to open it up.

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Bruce

[pasotibbs]

Couldn't you just put a new manual petcock where the regulator is and put the regulator on the lhs in the fuel light sender spot. Then run a line under the spine from right to left with a t piece fitting ? would this be a problem with an efi pressurised fuel delivery system ?

You could do without the warning on the dash as you now have 3 ltrs of 'reserve fuel from the right when you want to open it up.

 

 

 

Cheers

 

Bruce

If I remember correctly the hole size and bolt spacing is different on the fuel sender ?

[pasotibbs]

Check it with an ohm-meter. If it's broken I bet it will show infinite resistance. Note that the bulb wattage is more or less critical (too high will light up too soon or always, too low - or a LED - will never light up). That is if the Ballabio still use the thermistor type sender, I'm not sure.

 

Anyway if you short the sender connector pins (bike side, not sender side) to each other, the bulb should light up.

When checking the sender wait a few seconds as the thyrister takes quite a while to warm up !!

[VR6Dave]

I jumped the plug on the bike side and the dash light came on. I connected the ohmeter to the plug on the tank side and did not get a signal. I left it attached for about 2 minutes. How long is long enough? Thanks.

 

Dave

[pasotibbs]

I jumped the plug on the bike side and the dash light came on. I connected the ohmeter to the plug on the tank side and did not get a signal. I left it attached for about 2 minutes. How long is long enough? Thanks.

 

Dave

Sorry I didn't explain it well enough, the thyrister needs the current draw of a bulb to cause it to warm up and allow the bulb to light, when I tested mine I made up a test light circuit and initially condemned a replacement good sensor because I didn't wait long enough (after a few seconds the light comes on dim and gets brighter as the temp rises).

As your bike side wiring and bulb check out ok its most likely that the sensor has failed but a check for a broken wire on the sensor is probably wise.

If you remove it from the bike it is possible to strip it down and get to the thyristor (it sits at the top of a plastic tube)

there was a good thread on a H***A Goldwing forum about fixing these type of sensors but I can't find it,

this one gives some info

http://www.goldwingfacts.com/forums/view_t...&forum_id=1

[VR6Dave]

pasotibbs,

 

 

Do I have to pull the fuel pump assembly from the tank? Could you describe the check circuit you made? Thanks.

 

Dave

[pasotibbs]

pasotibbs,

 

 

Do I have to pull the fuel pump assembly from the tank? Could you describe the check circuit you made? Thanks.

 

Dave

Mine is a 2001 so the pump is on the outside, if the sensor is located on the L/H side forward of the fuel tap then its the same as mine and is just held in by 2 bolts.

 

If its the same sensor as mine then remove the tank (remember to drain the fuel) and if you look underneath you should see the 2 bolts, there may be some sealant on the join but the sensor should remove ok (it would be quite easy to make a blanking plate and seal off the hole so you can still use the bike).

I basically recreated the bikes wiring on the bench, with an old battery and a small 12v bulb to act as the dash light, I can't remember exactly but it was probably battery positive to bulb +ve then bulb -ve to sensor +ve and finally sensor -ve to battery negative (the bulb will work either way you wire it but the sensor may be directional ?)

 

Test the circuit first without the sensor to make sure the bulb works !

Then connect the sensor, if after a few seconds the light hasn't come on rotate the connections on the sensor just to be sure .

If it doesn't work then you could try to get to the thyristor and replace it, I seem to remember that it would be best to cut a section from the plastic tube as the wires to the sensor are quite short and as they are sealed at the bottom of the sensor will break if stretched to far.The sensor itself is a tiny component right at the top of the tube.

[Ouiji Veck]

I just eeked out another 190mi day.

I also just discovered the PO put the fuel pump

up front on the frame. Thanks PO

 

What about a simple siphon hose inside the tank?

Gas seeking it's own level and all?