Ditching air box

[Royal690]

Any auto parts store that sells filters can order you the RU-0600 from K&N. Everything else you can fabricate yourself.

 

 

Just curious, what else is needed to fabricate, I read about the sensor that needs to be tucked up, but do these just bolt up to the throttle bodies with clamps??? Or is there more involved.

[Guest Ferank]

Just curious, what else is needed to fabricate, I read about the sensor that needs to be tucked up, but do these just bolt up to the throttle bodies with clamps??? Or is there more involved.

 

The breather hose should be extended (4ft of 5/16 hose). I needed a small clamp for one of the breather hoses.

 

You'll need to cut the intake runner. I used a saw. The filters will bolt directly to the runners once cut.

[felix42o]

Just curious, what else is needed to fabricate, I read about the sensor that needs to be tucked up, but do these just bolt up to the throttle bodies with clamps??? Or is there more involved.

 

The filters themselves just clamp to the throttle bodies. The only thing I ran into was dealing with the air temp sensor attached to the air box. I'd read (and originally assumed) that this could be tucked up just anywhere, but it seemed to cause a fair amount of trouble for my bike when exposed to the open air around the motor once warm. (i.e. spitting, coughing, etc.) So the only modification I made was to mount the temp sensor into the back of the right pod, where the bulb got cooler, shaded air. This required lengthening the leads about 8" to reach the pod neatly. Otherwise it was bolt-on.

As for the results, I did this in part for asthetics due to a damaged side cover, and it definitley looks the part. Recieved many compliments. Performance seems a little cleaner, with a nice pull at the end, but with all the back and forth on pods vs. stock who knows; not real interested in the numbers. Feels faster, even if a lot of that is added honk from the intake.

[gstallons]

I hope you soldered and used heat shrink on the connections?

[felix42o]

I hope you soldered and used heat shrink on the connections?

 

Nah, just twisted the ends and wrapped the whole thing in scotch tape.

[emry]

I used to run the pods with the built in velocity stacks and really enjoyed the look with the side covers removed. They fit really good. I do not have the part number handy, but a search of the forum will turn it up, I did get the number here. As for the Air temp sensor I zip tied inside of a spary paint cap and then zipped that to the main frame. Lots of room with no airbox!!! Recently I have gone back to a lidless airbox because I do now ride through some rain. The pods did not like sitting in traffic and getting wet.

[Royal690]

Recently I have gone back to a lidless airbox because I do now ride through some rain. The pods did not like sitting in traffic and getting wet.

 

Hmmm, I guess I forgot about the rain issue....

 

Plan on doing a ride up through Nova Scotia at the end of July, maybe I should wait to do this.....

 

I know people run into this when running cold air intakes in cars, where the intake is exposed and closer to the road if you hit a large puddle it can cause hydro lock. Is this a concern when running the pods or are they high enough and tucked that it really just runs rough when wet???

[Dan M]

Hmmm, I guess I forgot about the rain issue....

 

Plan on doing a ride up through Nova Scotia at the end of July, maybe I should wait to do this.....

 

I know people run into this when running cold air intakes in cars, where the intake is exposed and closer to the road if you hit a large puddle it can cause hydro lock. Is this a concern when running the pods or are they high enough and tucked that it really just runs rough when wet???

 

That would be a pretty deep puddle on a V11!

Even in a hard rain not too much water would get in. It is much easier for the motor to draw air through the filter. Water, if any would enter as a mist.

[gstallons]

Nah, just twisted the ends and wrapped the whole thing in scotch tape.

You have got to be bullshitting me!

[felix42o]

You have got to be bullshitting me!

 

I would love to say that it should be obvious, but I have seen it done so, yes- I'm being sarcastic. It should go without saying that any new connections should be soldered (enviro spliced at a minimum) and wrapped in heat shrink, but sound advice for the uninitiated just the same.

[Guest V11RossoNigel]

I notice that someone quoted a K and N part number of RU-0600, however the inside flange diameter of this product is 57 mm, but the flange diameter of my throttle body is only 50mm so this product would only be usable if you were going to make up a velocity stack to step up. Which is exactly what I think I will do, machine them from billet, but has anyone go any idea of the correct length (assuming there is a given formular) taking into account the diameter of the throttle body. Calling all the technical guys who have done this.......my other question is the large breather pipe that runs from the top of the spline frame to the original air box, what is the best method for this when ditching air box, do you just leave this to exit to the eliments or does it require a filter or gauze one the end, I notice that someone said lengthen by 4 feet but where to. I do not really know what it is for, I realize it is something to do with the crank breather, could someone explain exactely how this works.

 

cheers for your replies

Nige

[raz]

I notice that someone quoted a K and N part number of RU-0600, however the inside flange diameter of this product is 57 mm, but the flange diameter of my throttle body is only 50mm so this product would only be usable if you were going to make up a velocity stack to step up. Which is exactly what I think I will do, machine them from billet, but has anyone go any idea of the correct length (assuming there is a given formular) taking into account the diameter of the throttle body.

Apparently the answer in this case is "as long as you can possibly fit". The shorter the length of the intakes, the higher the torque peak. According to what this guy claims to be a good ballpark formula, pods directly fitted to the intake manifolds will place it at or above 8000 rpm (assuming 10 inches between valves and outside air), which is obviously too high. If you can put 3 inches of velocity stacks inbetween, it will be more like 6000 rpm. I'm not too sure about the absolute accuracy of that formula, but I have no reason to doubt the general principle.

 

As someone noted, there are a K&N model that comes with some length of pipes already fitted and an ID of 50 mm so will fit the V11 perfect. If I ever bin the airbox I'll go with those because I'd hate to destroy the original parts.