Redline Shockproof (or red-light-shock-horror!)

[Guest ratchethack]

I figure, my bike cost thousands of dollars, Redline Heavy cost me $13.00, or about $5 more than some other options. If you could afford the bike in the first place, are you really sweatin' an extra $25.00 a year to change your driveline fluids, and buy decent oil? . . .

FWIW, here I paid $16/ltr. for Motul Gear 300, 100% synth. 75W90 (GL-5), from a distributor of both Redline and Motul (for a Torsen II limited slip diff). I'm with you, SH -- If you've done the research, you're confident in it, and believe one lube to be significantly better than the next for the application, and you're only using a few liters, the difference in cost amounts to nil when amortized over the useful life of the product.

 

But then, somebody's M is always gonna V. Thankfully, we've all got many top quality choices these days.

[Skeeve]

So very true. People have always lined up for snake oil. Some people will argue in the face of proof. I remember a particular "knowledgeable enthusiast" touting the merits of Slick 50 and Splitfire spark plugs even after the feds went after those companies for false claims. A sucker born every minute as they say.

 

In all fairness, Slick 50 is a superb lubricant! It works far, FAR better than the usual supply of used 30wt for the chain lube on your chainsaw...

 

Of course, it would normally be far too expensive to use for that task, but I got a quart free after someone heard it could fry their engine and was going to chuck it. Using it in the chain drip of my chainsaw was the only safe method of use I could figure out where the PTFE in suspension might actually serve some purpose!

 

It does work better than the usual alternative, but then, used up motor oil is the normal alternative, so thats not hard to beat!

[jimbemotumbo]

I am pleased to find us back on topic again, and after such a short deviation!

 

I can't help but add one of my few remaining strongly held opinions ... that Guzzis are an inherently tough machina, and anything resembling oil in the right places will keep them running happily for many decades.

Not sure it even has to be clean oil. Or even ALL oil. Heck, my son proved to me long ago that crayons placed carefully in a final drive fill hole will provide effective and colorful lubrication!

[Guest ratchethack]

...Guzzis are an inherently tough machina, and anything resembling oil in the right places will keep them running happily for many decades.

Not sure it even has to be clean oil. Or even ALL oil. Heck, my son proved to me long ago that crayons placed carefully in a final drive fill hole will provide effective and colorful lubrication!

I nominate this one as a Classic f'er the archives, JMB.

[Greg Field]

Interesting topic. Personally, I have never felt RLSH wear out. I have long used it in both my uber-Eldo and the V11 thingie I ride. Maybe I'm a philisitine who bangs shifts and just doesn't care? Prob'ly so. I just flogged the shit out of the Coppa Ductapio this weekend down along Mt. St. Helens and up a bunch of gravel goat paths that all ended in deep snowbanks, after an Italian friend had ben riding it for a month and taken it to the Malibu Guzi National. I love my Eldo, but it's readily apparent that they were made in different centuries.

 

I do watch my oil pressure and take note of what I get at what temps. The 10w-60 Motorex is starting to show signs of decreased viscosity at 8,000 miles. Pity. I expected more, but the gauge does not lie. Time for a change.

[Greg Field]

I talked to the Redline folks again today, mostly to explore the possibilities of some new products.

 

I also talked to them again about the RLSH. They unreservedly recommedned it for Guzzi transmissions and rear drives. I asked about the "chalk" alegation, and they siad that what made shockprood "shockproof" was the moly, not anything else. When pressed about change intervals, they suggested "every other year," despite mileage. I cannot imagine them recommending such a change interval, which is against their financial interests, if they were not fully confident of the product for that use. I ordered a few more cases and will continue its use in my own bikes.

[dlaing]

If the calcium is not to reduce shock, than I guess it must be to reduce acid. I don't think it is to reduce wear or friction.

Is acid buildup a problem in separated gear boxes?

Why did they put so much calcium in it?

I knew moly was anti-friction and anti-wear, but I did not know it was anti-shock. Maybe they make nano balloons out of it.

I'll be looking for good synthetic gear oils that I can simply put Moly in to make my own shock resistant oil, even if it is not shock resistant.

And I'll continue changing it too, when the shifting gets lousy.

[Dan M]

If the calcium is not to reduce shock, than I guess it must be to reduce acid. I don't think it is to reduce wear or friction.

Is acid buildup a problem in separated gear boxes?

Why did they put so much calcium in it?

I knew moly was anti-friction and anti-wear, but I did not know it was anti-shock. Maybe they make nano balloons out of it.

I'll be looking for good synthetic gear oils that I can simply put Moly in to make my own shock resistant oil, even if it is not shock resistant.

And I'll continue changing it too, when the shifting gets lousy.

 

You may be on to something Dave. Acid reduction. Hmm. Maybe it is ground up Pepcid tablets. They work reducing acid for me. The color is right too.

Those on a budget can buy run of the mill gear oil and add a few Tums. Brilliant!

[dlaing]

You may be on to something Dave. Acid reduction. Hmm. Maybe it is ground up Pepcid tablets. They work reducing acid for me. The color is right too.

Those on a budget can buy run of the mill gear oil and add a few Tums. Brilliant!

Maybe Milk of Magnesia would work, too!