Missing, sputtering, whatever below 3K

[raz]

I have been getting heat related popping below 3500, mostly around 2500.

AFR was between 13.0:1 and 13.5:1, but when it popped it would spike lean.

I tried readjusting valves, idle, balance, and checked TPS. I discovered a small leak in the intake manifold rubber throttle body mounts, where they meet the aluminum intake manifold, but sealing it made little or no difference.

So, I moved on to remapping.

I kept gradually enriching and it got better, but not perfect. I was fearful to go below 13.0:1, but your comments lean me towards believing it is necessary.

I've settled for AFR targets between 14.05 and 12.30. The richest are at WOT and, at any throttle opening, at really low RPM. Cruising above 4000 rpm is leanest. This way I get freight train response as well as 47 MPG (US).

 

Also I found an interesting lean spot at 1500 RPM. It runs rich at 1300 and 1700 RPMs, and my Tuneboy fuel cells are at 1300 and 1700, so to enrichen at 1500 I made it even richer at 1300 and 1700.

That's the beauty of MyECU, I'd just adjust my breakpoints so I could nail it.

 

I think at 45,000 miles I am ready for a new chain tensioner.

Luigi's VVT works more and more on chaos theory, the more worn it gets

VVT

 

Replace the chain while you're in there. You have to remove it anyway, to fit the tensioner. I didn't do it first but I regretted it so much I did it later

[george42]

Well, I did not run the fuel pressure gauge. I instead opted install a new fuel filter and recheck the TP & sync. Got everything on and set the TP to 545 mv using the method in the "How to." I was rewarded with 0.19 CO at idle!!! Oh that is too lean, so I bumped the TP to 615 mv which took got it back to about 2.5 CO. Still to lean but I though I would try it.

 

Barely made it out of the parking lot. Out came the allen key and I unscientificly nudged the TP father open. Rode a little. Nope not enough. Repeat. Repeat. Finally got it to stop. Rode home no issues.

 

This morning it ran great coming into work, didn't miss once.

 

I have not had a chance to check what the mv ended up at but I am guessing it is close to 900 mv. It will probably be a few days before I can check the CO too.

 

Clearly something is amiss. I will also scope the TP sensor to check for drop offs.

 

Everyone have a Happy & Safe Holiday (here in the US at least), and Cheers to the rest of you!

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xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxEmery ,i am in the same boat as you,I have scoped all sensors ,temp,air , oxygen sensor,tps. Mine has run fine all year up to two weeks ago ,now horrible on slight throttle. Set up to 160mv base and the oxygen sensor does not respond at all till reved hard,if i bring it up to near 200mv smooother running and sensor now switching,but still does not sound and feel like she should, and idle lumpy.More hours of head scratching in the workshop needed.

GEORGE

[emry]

Well I did not bump it as hard as I though, I only nudged it to 720mV. Not too far off. I finally ran a fuel pressure check and it was spot on, pressure increased and decreased when pressure was applied/removed from the regulator. I guess I need to save my penny's for one of Cliff's units and finally do the mapping properly.

[emry]

Well I finally bit the bullet after determining that the factory mapping, for my unit at least, is crap. I have never used this bike as commuter before so, so the conditions that is acts like an ass have never reared their head.

 

At idle CO is 0.02 % HC 150 ppm. By 1800 rpm CO makes it to 2.3% and HC continues at 150 ppm. At 4300 (the hole) CO is 1.1 % and HC is 550 ppm. Above 5500 the CO moves into the 3.5 - 5.0 range, and HC stays around 175.

 

I always have amde up for the leaness by adjusting the TPS to 650 mv or higher. As high as 850 mv at times but that caused some timing surge.

 

I fit a Teclusion -sp? unit I borrowed from a FJR1300. Richen just the bottom a lot and the top a little.

 

WOW. It is ridable again. It is running pretty fat between 2-4.5k rpm (7.0 CO, 850 HC) but at least it doesn't try to spit me off when I come off a light and make a turn. I will just carry some spare plugs and keep it reved up. It is more fun that way.

 

I can't wait til Cliff can get unit out and finally get this thing sorted out.

[gstallons]

A PowerCommander (or something like it) is what any fuel injected GUZZI needs. These are set-up lean and will not run as good as they are capable without this modification. I found a seller/service center who dialed my bike IN ! The best money you could ever spend.

[Guest frankdugo]

A PowerCommander (or something like it) is what any fuel injected GUZZI needs. These are set-up lean and will not run as good as they are capable without this modification. I found a seller/service center who dialed my bike IN ! The best money you could ever spend.

everything else being right.my vote goes to vapor-lock.seems in these conditions is when they {power com} pay for themselves.next time the tank's off i'm covering whole system with heat protection.---just read a thread,on 1200 sports and seems that there's a similar problem.when riding and this happens the first though is: this bike does not want to run slow.thereby giving it a character-------it's alive!

[Dan M]

 

At idle CO is 0.02 % HC 150 ppm. By 1800 rpm CO makes it to 2.3% and HC continues at 150 ppm. At 4300 (the hole) CO is 1.1 % and HC is 550 ppm. Above 5500 the CO moves into the 3.5 - 5.0 range, and HC stays around 175.

 

 

Wow, that is a pretty clean idle. Is idle quality good? I haven't even been able to come close to that. Below 2.5% my HCs will climb. Off idle mine will clean up to 1-2% and 100ppm or less. Without a dyno I can only test static.

Are your numbers with a loaded motor?

[Cliff]

I can't wait til Cliff can get unit out and finally get this thing sorted out.

 

Did I miss something? What am I doing?

[emry]

No, the idle quality is crap. Pops and backfires. Actually it is louder than the clutch rattle.

 

While the HC is clean the CO indicates a extremly lean mixture. Basicly the engine is burning everything it can. If I had my 4 gas I am sure it would should be extremly high NOx due to high head temps. The tests are static unfortunaly, so I have about 45 seconds for a good reading before heat build up is an issue. I have not taped the CO meter to the tank and gone for a ride yet. Company equip.

 

No Cliff I don't think you did. I am the one who recently ordered the My1.5 + Opt in kit form, the new batch was not up to snuff. I though I let you know the relationship between the order and my presence here, but perhaps not. Hint - I work for a large Jap MC manu. And I was was implying on the ability to set both mapping and ignition timing as need, not any extra help above shipping out a functional kit.

 

The connector for the 1.5 is still in production, on your site you had checked and stated that it was NLA but perhaps that was for the P8 or 1.6

[Skeeve]

The connector for the 1.5 is still in production, on your site you had checked and stated that it was NLA but perhaps that was for the P8 or 1.6

 

Where does one find such a critter, & what's it called? Somehow, I doubt that going to Radio Shack and asking for "one of those big ugly Molex thingummies" is going to bear any positive results...

[emry]

I have yet to track down its AMP part number but the connector is used on many current Yamaha WaveRunners and F-series Outboards. I would think it is only available through Tyco and in quanities. Most of the Yamaha ECU's are currently produced by Mitsubishi.

[Skeeve]

I have yet to track down its AMP part number but the connector is used on many current Yamaha WaveRunners and F-series Outboards. I would think it is only available through Tyco and in quanities. Most of the Yamaha ECU's are currently produced by Mitsubishi.

 

 

Excellent info, altho' I'm reminded of the "What dogs hear" Far Side comic from years ago... Please keep us informed if you can find a p/n for this!

[emry]

I am currently "extracting" one from a dead WaveRunner ECU, and have requested info from Japan. But the information train rarely travels overseas, particularly when outside sources are used. ie - Mitsubishi ECU production. I have yet to contact AMP, as that will most likely prove fruitless.