tps replacement

[Skeeve]

http://www.guzzitech.com/HD-TPS-Jeff_B.html

 

Which means that if the stock fuel map is lean in that range, the HD tps will counteract this. OTOH, if the map is too rich in that range, it'll be even richer, leading to bogging.

 

Somehow, I suspect that the former case is more likely, but that's just my natural pessimism wrt EPA mandates...

[Skeeve]

One kind of disturbing thing was under the TPS the butterfly stem etc was RUSTY! should I worry?

 

here's what I used to fix the speedo mounts that kept falling apart.

 

pack it with dielectric grease to keep the water out?

 

Great closeup of the throttle body, btw. What camera did you use? Seems like my 1st digital camera [an Olympus 510? or somesuch w/ a whopping 2mp! ] still has the best macro capabilities of any of the P&S digicams I've seen lately, despite almost 10 years of advancements in other areas...

 

What are the little bodgers you used to fix the speedo mounts called, & where did you find'em? They look like they should do the trick...

[fotoguzzi]

I use a simple Cannon a640.. small but big in use....Consumer reports recommended it.

the little rubber deals came off an older Guzzi, don't know which one tho they were in the bottom of my extra rubber parts box... they might have been seat bumpers or something?

[dlaing]

Keep in mind that graph is an oversimplification, and do note that the HD TPS will run leaner at throttle positions above a bit above the transition point.

Read all of Jeff's notes. It is a lot to digest...

You will probably want to do as Jeff suggests and ignore the 150mV TPS base setting and just find a good idle setting. He recommends 500-525mV, but I think he wrote that before the 2003+ models arrived.

[dlaing]

Reading Jeff's HD TPS thread got me motivated to go back to the garage.

I went to the hardware store and got a pair of M4 12mm bolts as he suggested.

But I am also using split lock washers, so I think they are a little shorter than ideal.

So IMHO I recommend going with M4 16mm or thereabouts.

AAYMMV and maybe it is better to strip the threads than to break off the bolt in the TB. The 12mm does work, even with split washers, but next time I'll go with 16mm.

There was less rust than what FotoGuzzi "Fotographed" on his bike, but none-the-less, I greased with silicone grease. What I don't like about the silicone grease is that it does dry out and may cause some resistance....oh well, it may also reduce air leakage????? (see Docc's recent thread about air leaks along the butterfly valve's shaft.)

I also took the pulley off the left TB, blasted with carb cleaner and silicone greased it.

Test ride time!