severe break-up above 5,000 RPM

[Tom M]

Open air box?...sucked the insulator down off the bottom of the fuel tank, cutting off your air at rpm? k

[Cliff]

Is there any variation in symptoms between the ECUs. If so the problem is most likely upstream like relays, fuses, power to ECU. If not the problem is probably downstream, injectors, fuel pump, pressure regulator etc.

[stormsedge]

Real nice Tom...

 

 

 

...my RM has sucked the alum insulator off the bottom of the tank twice now...so it is something I check before tearing into more complicated things...thanks for your enlightened opinion.

[quazi-moto]

The only difference I noticed with the stock ECU is that it would rev slightly higher before the onset of break-up, but other than that not much of a noticeable difference between the stocker and the My15M. I'm going to pull the fuel tank off the first chance I get and have a look at the air filter. How critical is it to keep the insulation?

[dlaing]

How critical is it to keep the insulation?

Good question.

I don't know, but with the bike's known risk of vapor lock and tank blistering, I would not go without it.

But maybe it could be replaced with an insulating heat reflective spray on coating of some kind???

Any ideas?

[Dan M]

Good question.

I don't know, but with the bike's known risk of vapor lock and tank blistering, I would not go without it.

But maybe it could be replaced with an insulating heat reflective spray on coating of some kind???

Any ideas?

 

Hey Dave,

 

A tape or pad will insulate much better than a coating. This woven, reflective tape is widely available. A 15' roll will leave plenty leftover for creative uses like the cat's back before venturing out into the sun.

 

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Lincoln/In...133920_m-34.htm

 

These sheets are also available.

 

http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Insulation...2611_p-1219.htm

[dlaing]

A 15' roll will leave plenty leftover for creative uses like the cat's back before venturing out into the sun.

Might work well on my black helmet, too

I guess the secret to making the adhesive work is to clean the surface very well.

And maybe a combination of that tape and pad will work best. I don't trust the spray on adhesive alone.

[quazi-moto]

Open air box?...sucked the insulator down off the bottom of the fuel tank, cutting off your air at rpm? k

 

Yep, I pulled the tank off and lo & behold a big strip of insulation was pasted to the BMC filter. I'm surprised the bike ran at all! Now, what's the hot ticket for gluing the insulation back on? Some type of spray adhesive? I noticed that the rest of the insulation could stand to be re-glued, at least near the edges.

[gavo]

this might seem obvious but have u cheched the HT leads and plugs

[dlaing]

Yep, I pulled the tank off and lo & behold a big strip of insulation was pasted to the BMC filter. I'm surprised the bike ran at all! Now, what's the hot ticket for gluing the insulation back on? Some type of spray adhesive? I noticed that the rest of the insulation could stand to be re-glued, at least near the edges.

If you follow the links Dan posted, they have both spray adhesive and tape.

I think a combination of both would be best.

Cleaning the surface is key.

Any ideas on a good cleaning method?

Adhesive remover to remove the old glue from the tank side, and then something to remove the adhesive remover, all without damaging the plastic???

After it is clean, re-adhere the insulation, remove excess adhesive, and then tape it down at the borders with the fiber glass reinforced aluminum tape.

[Skeeve]

Cleaning the surface is key.

Any ideas on a good cleaning method?

 

Actually, given the nylon tank, I think surface prep to give the adhesive greater "tooth" to work with is probably key. Obviously, many solvents are going to be suspect, given a plastic tank, but I think good old rubbing alcohol will probably be safe, drys reasonably quickly w/o residue and will manage to strip any surface oils that would mess w/ the adhesive.

 

I believe 3M makes a "high heat" version of their Super 77 spray adhesive that is probably a good choice, but can't provide any recommendation beyond 3M usually knows their stuff.

[luhbo]

You should glue a good portion of this insulation stuff to the 5 times fried relais and fuses as well. It shouldn't hurt at least.

 

Hubert

[quazi-moto]

You should glue a good portion of this insulation stuff to the 5 times fried relais and fuses as well. It shouldn't hurt at least.

 

Hubert

Well I have toasted the injector relay probably about four times now, but the fuse on that circuit has never blown. For that matter I've never blown a fuse yet on this bike. I probably still have another problem unrelated to the insulation thing. Aside from the fuel pump and injectors I'm not sure what other components could be overloading the circuit. I'm surprised really that the relays have cooked and not the fuse.

[Dan M]

If you follow the links Dan posted, they have both spray adhesive and tape.

I think a combination of both would be best.

Cleaning the surface is key.

Any ideas on a good cleaning method?

Adhesive remover to remove the old glue from the tank side, and then something to remove the adhesive remover, all without damaging the plastic???

After it is clean, re-adhere the insulation, remove excess adhesive, and then tape it down at the borders with the fiber glass reinforced aluminum tape.

 

The adhesive on the tape is quite strong. Clean the surface of grease with soap & water and you will have no trouble. A couple of rows of the tape slightly overlapped is all you'll need.

I can't speak of the spray adhesive but I'd think it would be pretty good too.

 

If you need to get the old glue off the underside try some mineral spirits on a rag. I'm always leary of using any stronger solvents on a plastic tank.

[stormsedge]

I've had the best luck with 3M spray adhesive.

 

 

And I owe Tom an apology for being cranky earlier. Sorry, Tom.