The MyECU thread

[greenmonster]

So we should stick to MyECU Cfg CoilCharge0=6000,CoilCharge1=2500?

[raz]

Cliff delivered my map with CoilCharge1=2700 so I expect that to be fine for a 16M

[greenmonster]

OK.

 

 

Was a little hard to understand the injection timing graphics used before:

 

 

Are the 575-600 ignition advance we talked about same as the degrees in this table?

 

 

 

Edit: Yup, ment injection timing....

[raz]

Was a little hard to understand the ignition timing graphics used before

You mean injection timing?

 

Cliff's InjAdv is degrees BTDC [of compression] that the injection pulse ends. This is confirmed by Cliff in post 144 and 157.

 

Your chart shows 303˚ATDC. That equals (720-303=) 417˚BTDC so it is the same as an InjAdv of 417.

 

Counting the other direction, an InjAdv of 575 would be (720-575=) 145˚ATDC in that tool of yours.

[Punch]

This is not exactly MyECU, but is related for those that step beyond.

 

Just bought an Innovate Motorsport LC-1 wideband O2 sensor plus other bits in a kit. Software is amazing and maybe you should consider even higher spec gear from them to log more bits in your bike. If you buy one, check your exhaust pipe material before ordering. My kit came with a mild steel bung for welding to the pipe, but my pipes are stainless, so the mild steel would need TIG welding and the bung will rust. Therefore, if you need to, order a SS bung at the same time.

 

Another note, find a decent welding guy. fortuately I have a client who specialises in SS fabrication. The Innovate SS bung is a machinable grade and during welding, the fillet is tricky to get right if you do not know what you are doing. Apparently due to where the heat is in the TIG welding process - 66% in the metal to be welded by TIG, as opposed to 33% when using MIG.

 

As a side note, i ran the bike in the garage with the Ducati performance ECU to have a look at the software - astounding rich (AFR of 10 or so) when twisting to WOT rapidly and that is with the airbox lid cut out.

 

Mmmmm - looks like lots of sleepless nights ahead.

 

Cliff lives about an hour from me and has kindly offered to help get a Duc map in place.

 

Will keep you informed.

 

Richard

[greenmonster]

Nice to have you w us!

 

From our mails I know you are a serious person and will contribute.

And also nice to have a fellow Ducatista on board.

 

Welcome!

[greenmonster]

Slightly off topic:

 

I`m involved in a ethanol engine 2 injectors per TB & MyECU P8.

The injection duration will be about 8,2 ms at WOT & like 2,1 at just off idle.

Will this cause problems?

Should we change ignition timing?

Any other important issue w ethanol to think of?

[raz]

Why would it cause problems? The smaller figures give you better chance to tune injection timing at high rpm.

 

Generally, you should advance ignition timing and raise CR. Cooling is better, oil dilution is worse. I know nothing but that is what I have grasped. Please tell us how it progresses!

[Skeeve]

Any other important issue w ethanol to think of?

 

What Raz said: given a reasonable combustion chamber [no FBF 'top hat' piston domes!], you almost can't have too much C.R. w/ pure ethanol. Which helps make up for the lower power content of the fuel.

 

Good luck, & definitely keep us informed of your progress!

[gstallons]

Slightly off topic:

 

I`m involved in a ethanol engine 2 injectors per TB & MyECU P8.

The injection duration will be about 8,2 ms at WOT & like 2,1 at just off idle.

Will this cause problems?

Should we change ignition timing?

Any other important issue w ethanol to think of?

 

The most important issue to address, is or are the rubber components in the fuel sysytem going to be compatible with the ethanol. RESEARCH this before you are sure.

[raz]

Ethanol is also reported to quickly clog fuel filters previously used with gasoline, so it may be wise to replace the filter when switching to ethanol, or soon after.

[greenmonster]

you should advance ignition timing

 

Wanna explain why?

 

I will keep you posted.

[raz]

Wanna explain why?

It burns slower than gas. Also, the original timing may be retarded at some points to reduce detonation and that won't be needed anymore.

 

From http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id26.html :

"Other conditions being equal, the proper timing for an ethanol engine is five to eight degrees advanced from the optimum gasoline setting. But as you make changes described in this chapter, you will change factors that affect the proper timing. Improved manifold heating and increased compression ratio require retarding the timing. So does enriching the fuel-air ratio. With a moderate increase in compression ratio and manifold heating, ignition timing will be more like three to five degrees advanced from the ideal gasoline timing."

Ideally you'd want to dial in ignition on a dyno, seeking best power.

[emry]

Go talk to some guys that run an alcohol dragster, they should be able to quickly get you straightened out about the need conversions.

 

As for clogging the fuel filters, I recall melting just about anything plastic or swelling rubber, that would then clog the filter, leak or pass so little fuel as to be useless. Plastic filters would just melt into a shrived ball.

[greenmonster]

# TDCWhileCranking=1 will fire the spark at TDC

# TDCWhileCranking=0 will fire with advance from the map

 

MyECU Cfg TDCWhileCranking=1

 

Slow start this spring, first run today.

 

Maybe relevant only f Ducs, but:

 

Changing above figure t 0 & first 3 TPS to 5 degrees, much better!

No kickbacks, smooth starting, cold or hot engine.

 

Edit: "MyECU Cfg TDCWhileCranking=1" seems to be default in Cliff´s Cali & V11 maps.