The MyECU thread

[greenmonster]

If the voltage booster is working, you should see >15V at D17.

 

My ecu has been tested by you, Cliff, & you made additional wiring from what looks like Q5 to big chip.

Wiring is secured w silicon and D17 is under that so no measuring possible. Or have is mislocated D17?

Only pic I have of PCB: http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/pics/MyP8MkIII_PCB.png

Would be easier if it wasn`t reversed.

 

 

Test today, w fully charged batt acc to C-tec. Took a ride.

Starts w no kickbacks, hot or cold.

 

Differences before/after kickbacks:

 

1. Prime 10-20-25-30C: 18-14-10-9/12-10-10-9mS.

2. Old battery did turn over engine w/o problems w no plugcaps/Now new, fully charged battery.

3. Full idle lever which gave before 1400/Now 1800 RPM right after start when cold.

4. RPM break 1: 600/800.

 

I cannot say what definitely fixed my problem, my guess is as good as you so please have a go!

But think I`ll check my ignition to try and see what I have in reality,

no noticeable difference between 0 & 14 degrees when starting is too strange.

[Cliff]

My ecu has been tested by you, Cliff, & you made additional wiring from what looks like Q5 to big chip.

Wiring is secured w silicon and D17 is under that so no measuring possible. Or have is mislocated D17?

Only pic I have of PCB: http://www.cajinnovations.com/MyECU/pics/MyP8MkIII_PCB.png

Would be easier if it wasn`t reversed.

ok sounds good. wasn't sure if you were a kit builder or not.

[Punch]

Does anyone use the logging and diagnostic tools? If so, I have developed an Excel workbook to convert the prased text file via a couple of steps to all the data in individual cells for analysis, etc. I would call it a Beta version as i am the only one to have tested it.

 

If anyone is interested, they can send an email to punch@bigpond.net.au and i will send a copy for you to try/test. Be warned, it is about 2.7Mb and it contains Macros, which must be enabled for it to work.

 

It comprises a few sheets with step by step instructions in the first sheet.

 

I don't know if there are differences between EcuController versions and the parsed text file from "diagnostics". I am using EcuControl143.exe

 

Richard

 

 

That's all. Not really impressive once you have done it sometimes. In fact boring a bit. Because now you have such a huge amount of information that you have to be a good excel hero or a good script, pearl or whatever programmer to get behind all these numbers. Its a bit difficult because very seldom you'll have information for exact cells, and if so then in most cases only for a short moment. I guess some statistical excel knowledge won't hurt.

 

A short 2 minutes preview is uploaded here (picture only, sorry):

 

 

Hubert

[raz]

Finally I managed to get the perfect start we all want. Stone cold engine, first notch on fast idle lever, push starter button without touching throttle and it starts immediately and keeps running with no nursing at all. Hot engine, same but with no fast idle. Never misses a beat.

 

I think what happened to do the trick was that I decided to be religious about the TPS settings. I've always used 150-160 mV base (31-33 on the Optimiser) but I used to cheat a little with the 378 mV idle setting (WHB spec for Sporti), using the idle screw instead of fixing the mixture. This time I set it at 378 mV (76-77 on Optimiser) and one half turn on bleeders. With engine running the TPS reads 96 so I use IdleTPS=96 in the ECU. Then I tweaked mixture in the idle cell, nothing else, until I had about 1100 rpm idle with a fully warm engine. For some reason this made wonders.

 

I use the Prime and CrankBoost tables as Cliff delivered them, unmodified. I use 5 degrees SpkAdv at the 500 rpm column, 10 degrees at idle column. And TDCWhileCranking=1.

 

Edit: My InjAdv for the lower left cells is 700, placing the injection start not long after previous valve close. Maybe that helps too.

[greenmonster]

Good news!

And valuable tips f us searching f the same goal, thx!

 

Edit: Changed my first RPM break too, fr 600 to 800. Felt it helped abit.

 

 

(76-77 on Optimiser)

 

Stupid question but to b sure: That is the same value you get on the slider for TPS in Ecucontrol?

[luhbo]

....

Edit: Changed my first RPM break too, fr 600 to 800. Felt it helped abit.

.....

 

Don't forget that you have done this. The idea behind telling you to shift this value to 800 was only to make sure that you really have the spark at or even slowly behind TDC until the engine in fact fires and starts moving. The given 500 are normaly perfectly working.

 

If you have it at 500/600 you can better finetune the starting behaviour of your engine. But as long as your engine only kicks back this finetuning is not yet on your ToDo list.

 

Hubert

[raz]

Stupid question but to b sure: That is the same value you get on the slider for TPS in Ecucontrol?

Yup, that is the very same.

[luhbo]

Greemonster,

 

have you done what VIJ suggested in post #326? Don't know anything of Ducatis, but his writing seems to be quite reasonable.

 

Hubert

[greenmonster]

have you done what VIJ suggested in post #326?

 

No, but I will cause I have to open alternator cover soon.

[greenmonster]

A small step f mankind but a big f me, at least it feels like it after some weeks hard struggle....

Yep, starts real good now.

 

 

Giving the long answer, maybe someone will learn fr it...:

 

1. Fresh items in starter mechanism.

 

2. Diminishing gap ign sensor 0.30mm, about 0.45 now, +/- 0.10.

 

3. Battery fully charged, plug spark checked-perfect.

 

4. TDC=1, Priming set to 1 & throttle cable turned back a lot to avoid kickbacks etc.

 

5. Tried cranking (NO THROTTLE), only goal good turning over w/o kickbacks. It does so.

 

6. Was about to do TPS base setting basics allover, but thought "I`ll just try basic V11 Priming & see what happends." Almost start.

 

7. Full idle lever-starts real good, no kickbacks either!

 

8. Some mapping TDC=0, 600 RPM & 6 degrees quite good.

 

9. After a bit fiddling w throttle cable, start is very good & also idle.

 

Hard to say if TDC=1 or 0 w 6 degrees is best.

2nd &3rd RPM breaks are 1200 & 1500, 10 degrees first 6 rows TPS in both seems very good & stable.

Prime f 10-20-25-30 degrees C is 12-10-8-7.

Temp C is +4.1 - +1,9 - 0 - 0.

Inj adv is 517 overall.

Idles at about 160 in Ecucontroller. Maybe too high by the book, but works.

Starts w/o any problems, again & again! Didn`t know that could feel like a medium good private moment w yourself....

 

 

My conclusion:

Good starter mechanism & battery obviously good but no major factor.

Less fuel w starting good but maybe not significant.

Ign sensor gap only radical thing done so probably major factor.

And, NO THROTTLE at all while starting!! My frustration got me fiddling w that, screwing up pressure. I feel that is a major factor.

 

Many Thanks f all help!

 

Edit 22/5: 100 km ride. Starts fine cold/hot, even cold w lights on. Life is good again.

[raz]

thumbs up!

 

Starts w/o any problems, again & again! Didn`t know that could feel like a medium good private moment w yourself....

[greenmonster]

So,

anyone w new developments, lads?

 

I just expirienced luhbos "less is more", oh so true again....

Just testing 5% less fuel 4500-9k RPM, 06-12 TPS, acc real good.

My liquidcooled bike definately needs lees of regarding starting (prime), Air t corrections, Oil T choking etc.

Definitely less tha a V11 f e!

(& yes, starting works perfect! )

 

And you, raz, any ign timing experiences to tell us?

I`ll remenber you, luhbo, wanted to try somthing this spring, also timing adv or what?

Anyone else chiming in?

Just courious.

[raz]

Nah, this weekend I just rode it for a change

 

I've settled for earliest possible injection phasing without interfering with previous cycle. Seems best for my bike and I'm pretty sure I can't tune that better without a dyno.

 

I did retro-fit the power booster though. Won't do any difference until my battery is very weak some day.

 

Do you know what A/F you are running? Low 13's? Or closer to 14:1?

 

I'm considering switching back from the K&N pods to the proper air box. The numbers suggest the pods are much worse than the air box, contrary to common belief. Several percent less fuel for same A/F. I need to confirm that, making no other changes.

[luhbo]

......

The numbers suggest the pods are much worse than the air box, contrary to common belief. Several percent less fuel for same A/F. I need to confirm that, making no other changes.

 

I found the same for the snorkels. Remove the snorkels and it safes you up to 10% of gas. It's probably the weight advantage

 

Hubert

[greenmonster]

Do you know what A/F you are running? Low 13's? Or closer to 14:1?

 

First day of riding w a HalMeter AF30, 90% of the time 12.8-13.2 my guessings so far quite good or AFmeter is inaccurate...