The MyECU thread

[greenmonster]

Anyone tried any Voltmeter gadget on ECU to check TPS degrees while driving? Or is it a feature in Optimiser?

AF meter f sure is good but would be nice to know more exact at what degree TPS I`m looking at.

Something simple +/- from pin 11 & 18 (IIRC) on ECU wouldn`t be too hard.

 

(& start is very good and subtracting & subtracting fuel now... )

 

Where are the Air T & Oil T sensors located on a V11? Pics?

Just courious f comparison & eventual problems w other models & brands.

My Air T is at the back wall of my airbox, probably OK when riding normally but f city rush hour?

[raz]

The Optimiser shows TPS (0-1023) in most of its screens. It also shows what map cell coordinate you are at (like 5,7). And O2 reading of course. In the Baro menu you will also be able to monitor oil temp and air temp in degrees Celsius and air pressure in mBar. Just buy it, it costs like a carbon fiber front sprocket cover

 

My oil temp sensor sits in a valve cover. V11 sensors are more like a CHT sensor, sitting in the head. My air temp sensor is located behind front fairing. For very slow city traffic the best would be to have it inside the air box, but I'm not worried enough to move it. I avoid cities anyway.

[greenmonster]

The Optimiser shows TPS (0-1023) in most of its screens. It also shows what map cell coordinate you are at (like 5,7). And O2 reading of course. In the Baro menu you will also be able to monitor oil temp and air temp in degrees Celsius and air pressure in mBar.

 

Great, thx, forgot the Optimiser´s possibilities, I`m gonna borrow one again.

[Cliff]

Just remember Optimiser firmware is closely tied to ECU firmware.

To be safe don't use it to make changes to the ECU, just as a readout.

[greenmonster]

Yep, thx, not touching Optimiser while driving.

 

 

When WOT f 10 secs, then just no throttle f 5-10 s, and then a little cruising throttle:

How low Inj dur can you set in 6-9k RPM, les than 500 TPS without hiccups/hesitation, like 1,5 or what?

 

You guys who log: Tested w A/F meter & Optimiser to see TPS, hard to drive & check data I`ve realized. <_>

But logging, don`t you get to much info to handle? Do you do very short runs or what?

[Punch]

Hi there, if you do a log, send the file to me, either before or after using the EcuController diagnostics button and I will strip it down to an Excel file with data from each text line in individual Excel cells. This way you can rearrange or hide columns so you can then analyse to your hearts content.

 

Attachment shows the steps I go through.

 

 

 

Yep, thx, not touching Optimiser while driving.

 

 

When WOT f 10 secs, then just no throttle f 5-10 s, and then a little cruising throttle:

How low Inj dur can you set in 6-9k RPM, les than 500 TPS without hiccups/hesitation, like 1,5 or what?

 

You guys who log: Tested w A/F meter & Optimiser to see TPS, hard to drive & check data I`ve realized. <_>

But logging, don`t you get to much info to handle? Do you do very short runs or what?

Logging_info_for_V11_MyEcu.pdf

[raz]

You guys who log: Tested w A/F meter & Optimiser to see TPS, hard to drive & check data I`ve realized. <_>

But logging, don`t you get to much info to handle? Do you do very short runs or what?

Depends on purpose. I once logged a very long session running open loop with an "unknown" map, then processed it to produce a "map" similar to the O2 target map, but showing actual reading instead of target. That was pretty useful and easy to correlate with where I thought changes were needed.

 

Normally I guess short one-purpose runs are easier to grasp. Logging just the transition from idle to WOT could show you problems that the closed loop software is far too slow to fix, but since logging is pretty low resolution in time we may still miss things. Maybe Logworks is better for that purpose, but we'd need rpm input to it and ideally TPS too.

[vij]

I always record. Then I analyse and adjust untill I get the A/F that I want. I guess that you can adjust it on the run at low power but not at high. Dont forget that you are on a very powerful Ducati so you better focus on the road as our bikes are very fast

[greenmonster]

Read a book today and learned something, maybe.

 

My thought:

Why do some ign maps have 1 or 2 rows between start & idle, like 2 between 600 & 1100RPM?

Book said if/when idle is weak/dropping, if the row below ideal idle RPM has higher ign than idle row, it helps keeping idle steady

if manifold pressure or if A/F is weak at idle etc, acc to book.

 

True or false?

 

 

EDIT: Tried 217 Ign Adv at top 4 TPS & from 5500RPM, throttle response seems killer when I just started.

 

 

Cheers, mates, a little drunk on my birthday.

[luhbo]

Theoretically this should work (having TDC set to 1), practically I found it was more important to have valves and synchronisation set correctly for achieving a reliable idle.

 

Hubert

[raz]

Why do some ign maps have 1 or 2 rows between start & idle, like 2 between 600 & 1100RPM?

Book said if/when idle is weak/dropping, if the row below ideal idle RPM has higher ign than idle row, it helps keeping idle steady

If you mean there are breakpoints at, like, 600, 775, 950, 1100 I think it's just a waste of resolution. But if your ECU has a resolution of 32 or more columns, you may want to waste some.

 

The map Cliff delivered with my ECU has the following:

 

 RPM		 500  1100  1500  1801
SpkAdv 00  8.20  8.20  4.92 14.30

 

I guess this third column is the same thing but above idle, it keeps the idle from raising above 1100. So unless it renders back-kicks, maybe the 500 column could say 10-12 degrees for keeping it at 1100.

 

My current map does neither though, and idle is rock steady without it:

 

 RPM		 500  1100  1322  1520
SpkAdv 00  5.16 10.08 11.02 13.13

[Punch]

This attachment shows the TP and rev points downloaded from the Ducati Performance 15M in my Duc 900SSie (2001)

TP is shown in degrees as Duc and MG throttles (Marelli/Weber ecus/tp sensors) go up to 80 degrees. The TP sensor has a bias (more accuracy) from 2.6 or so to 30 degrees, which is where our bikes probably spend most of their time, unless WOT. You can convert degrees to voltages and then to 0 to 1024 (binary stuff the ecu wants to see) from a post earlier by Raz on how to convert. As per the EcuController maps you set TPS for "zero" closed.

 

 

 

 

If you mean there are breakpoints at, like, 600, 775, 950, 1100 I think it's just a waste of resolution. But if your ECU has a resolution of 32 or more columns, you may want to waste some.

 

The map Cliff delivered with my ECU has the following:

 

 RPM		 500  1100  1500  1801
SpkAdv 00  8.20  8.20  4.92 14.30

 

I guess this third column is the same thing but above idle, it keeps the idle from raising above 1100. So unless it renders back-kicks, maybe the 500 column could say 10-12 degrees for keeping it at 1100.

 

My current map does neither though, and idle is rock steady without it:

 

 RPM		 500  1100  1322  1520
SpkAdv 00  5.16 10.08 11.02 13.13

DP_throttle_angles_and_rev_breaks.pdf

[greenmonster]

Thx f sharing, punch!

 

 

And now, something completely different:

 

What type of sealant is best for waterproofing the case?

I have a P7/8 case and I guess I need to open after sealing it since I have no custom fittings f connections.

From factory there hardly seems to be any so how anal do you have to be?

Loctite/Plastic Padding preferred as easiest to find.

I have thoroughly laquered the PCB.

[vij]

Thx f sharing, punch!

 

 

And now, something completely different:

 

What type of sealant is best for waterproofing the case?

I have a P7/8 case and I guess I need to open after sealing it since I have no custom fittings f connections.

From factory there hardly seems to be any so how anal do you have to be?

Loctite/Plastic Padding preferred as easiest to find.

I have thoroughly laquered the PCB.

 

 

I would guess that Ducatis tribond would be perfect.

 

Jocke...........

[luhbo]

Don't use silicone, it contains acid. I'd use one of those water and acrylic based products, similar to silicone, also available at any DIY store.

 

You have the microswitch outside of the ECU? I have mine open and the pcb laquer sealed. Water may get in, but so it can get out also. If you seal it, water will get in as well - and stay there

 

Hubert