The MyECU thread

[greenmonster]

So this is the average Lambda value of each cell fr 45 min ride?

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=9730

 

I believe the LC-1 & Logworks/Innovate software can do that, too.

 

Log w LC-1, download to PC & open w Logworks/Innovate.

[raz]

So this is the average Lambda value of each cell fr 45 min ride?

http://www.v11lemans...&attach_id=9730

 

I believe the LC-1 & Logworks/Innovate software can do that, too.

 

Log w LC-1, download to PC & open w Logworks/Innovate.

What I showed is the Innovate Logworks software output. But without my plugin, you will only have Lambda values with no reference to RPM or throttle so you can not make that diagram!

 

To make a good chart of that type, you need the throttle coordinate without accel pump. My plugin does that too.

[greenmonster]

without accel pump[/i]. My plugin does that too.

 

That`s real handy.

 

 

I was mixing up gadgets earlier (5-6 beers might have contributed).

I meant that a LM-1 w RPM kit http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php & a LC-1 you can log & alter as you`ve done. But that`s no news, I guess....

 

Seems real practical, though, w that average function you mentioned.

Borrowed this setup, gonna give it a try.

[raz]

Yes, I considered some of those Innovate products until I cracked the mysteries of plugin writing. It would be a terrible mess of wiring and/or new sensors though, to get anywhere near the information available from the ECU. Not that all is needed.

 

When I grow old I'll tune a Dodge Viper instead, or something else that is big and can fit all my toys

[greenmonster]

FYI:

New chip f MyP8 mentioned here

http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl?num=1258118188/15#15

&

http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl?num=1277072713

does improve starting.

Free upgrade!

[greenmonster]

Btw, no MyECU activity here?

 

I`s all over at http://cajinnovations.com/yabb0/YaBB.pl or what?

 

I do think there`s alot of MyECU users still here, or?

 

But everybody`s just happy w their MyECUs, or?

[Kiwi_Roy]

Hi Guys,

Just when you thought it was safe I pop up here.

I recieved my kit earlier this week and I will likely put it together over the weekend

Cliff sent me a file "Sport11Stock.ecu" I take it that's the starting point.

I will be running Open Loop, no O2 sensor and no Optimizer hopefully that's OK.

 

If I just load the file I assume it will start, am I right?

 

I will check my TPS setting as I go.

 

I think I will combine my exixting ECU and Power Commander into a box to use as spare. When I remove the pressure sensor I will just simulate the sea-level voltage, that should work. If not the cells are readily available for about US$17

 

I tracked down the 26 pin Tyco connector but I can't wait to order one so I will just canibalize the original.

 

Is there anything else I have to remove from the original board for re-use?

 

Cheers

 

Roy

[raz]

I think he normally preloads it with a map, so you probably don't need to load it.

 

Personally I wouldn't slaughter a working stock unit, considering how much it is worth. You can get busted ones on eBay for low cost. On the other hand, I trust you could put it back together again if you want to.

 

Do follow Cliff's suggestions for "first start". I first cheated and used my idle screw but tuning the idle cell properly has proven better in the long run, plus you can swap to a stock ECU with no change.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I think he normally preloads it with a map, so you probably don't need to load it.

 

Personally I wouldn't slaughter a working stock unit, considering how much it is worth. You can get busted ones on eBay for low cost. On the other hand, I trust you could put it back together again if you want to.

 

Do follow Cliff's suggestions for "first start". I first cheated and used my idle screw but tuning the idle cell properly has proven better in the long run, plus you can swap to a stock ECU with no change.

Man it's tough trying to join Cliff's forum, he sent me a link that I tried it tells me I didn't join quick enough.

Raz,

The kit is going together ok I guess but I am having a bit of trouble identifying a few parts. I think the bill of material needs to be on a different page from artwork because it gets cut off in Nth American printout, our page layout is different

I have two things that look like 1/2 watt resistors but very low ohms

1 is Brown Brown Black Silver and measures about 0.3 Ohms

the other Brown Black Brown Silver measures about 1.5 Ohms are these the inductors L2, L2a, which is which?

 

Another item looks like a MOV marked E60 075 , I don't see that called out anywhere.

Cliff mentioned a couple of high voltage capacitors for Q1/Q2 do you know what value they should be, i will pick some up.

Thanks

 

Roy

[raz]

I have an L1 of 10uH (brown black black) and one L2 of 100 uH (brown black brown). Some boards use 2x100 uH for L2 - if there is an L2a it should be identical to L2. You better ask Cliff. If you use only one I guess it should span the outer ends of L2 and L2a on the PCB. Hm, no wait your board design is different. Maybe just shortcut the L2a, I'm not sure. Compare it to the 16M board and components.

 

Anyway E60 075 is the "polyswitch", it's like a soft fuse (60V 750 mA)

 

I used "GRMHIVO 2200pF/630V 0603 X7R" for the high voltage capacitors, surface mounted at the FET solder points.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I have an L1 of 10uH (brown black black) and one L2 of 100 uH (brown black brown). Some boards use 2x100 uH for L2 - if there is an L2a it should be identical to L2. You better ask Cliff. If you use only one I guess it should span the outer ends of L2 and L2a on the PCB. Hm, no wait your board design is different. Maybe just shortcut the L2a, I'm not sure. Compare it to the 16M board and components.

 

Anyway E60 075 is the "polyswitch", it's like a soft fuse (60V 750 mA)

 

I used "GRMHIVO 2200pF/630V 0603 X7R" for the high voltage capacitors, surface mounted at the FET solder points.

Thanks Raz, I will whip out and get the caps, I assume anything close will do

 

Regards

 

Roy

[Kiwi_Roy]

I have an L1 of 10uH (brown black black) and one L2 of 100 uH (brown black brown). Some boards use 2x100 uH for L2 - if there is an L2a it should be identical to L2. You better ask Cliff. If you use only one I guess it should span the outer ends of L2 and L2a on the PCB. Hm, no wait your board design is different. Maybe just shortcut the L2a, I'm not sure. Compare it to the 16M board and components.

 

Anyway E60 075 is the "polyswitch", it's like a soft fuse (60V 750 mA)

 

I used "GRMHIVO 2200pF/630V 0603 X7R" for the high voltage capacitors, surface mounted at the FET solder points.

The closest I could find was 4,700 pf 1kV I will try that, I could also put 2 in series if you think that's better

 

Thanks

 

Roy

[raz]

The closest I could find was 4,700 pf 1kV I will try that, I could also put 2 in series if you think that's better

I don't have the faintest clue, I got the 2200 pF value from Cliff. But my first (Mk II) board didn't have any capacitor at all so it must be better than that!

 

Cliff use to be very responsive to email questions but perhaps the time zone difference make up a 24h round-trip time to you. Oh, and I see you made it a member at his forum now.

[Kiwi_Roy]

I should mention I got my kit going, not perfect yet but shows a lot of promise.

To make use of the OEM ECU and my Power Commander I permanently wired the two together and installed in a metal box that fits in the tool tray as spare. Because I had to rob the pressure sensor I simply wired in a couple of resistors to give me 4.1 V (approx sensor output a @ Sea Level). I have taken the bike over 2,500 ft using this with no obvious effect.

 

For some reason the bike cuts out once hot, I suspect it's something to do with the sensor fitted to RH cylinder. If I flip SW2 ON it runs OK

 

Can someone please explain what the table marked Flags is about?

 

I am thinking about an LC-1 kit but confused by the myriad of options when I google LC-1 Innovate Motor Sports

 

Do I need an Optimizer to use the LC-1?

 

Roy

[Punch]

Man it's tough trying to join Cliff's forum, he sent me a link that I tried it tells me I didn't join quick enough.

Raz,

The kit is going together ok I guess but I am having a bit of trouble identifying a few parts. I think the bill of material needs to be on a different page from artwork because it gets cut off in Nth American printout, our page layout is different

I have two things that look like 1/2 watt resistors but very low ohms

1 is Brown Brown Black Silver and measures about 0.3 Ohms

the other Brown Black Brown Silver measures about 1.5 Ohms are these the inductors L2, L2a, which is which?

 

Another item looks like a MOV marked E60 075 , I don't see that called out anywhere.

Cliff mentioned a couple of high voltage capacitors for Q1/Q2 do you know what value they should be, i will pick some up.

Thanks

 

Roy

 

These are front and rear pics of My15M. Ignore the black wire - this was to make it suit the pins for a 2001 Duc 900SSie.

 

Rear shows the 2 inductors at the top - they look like resistors.

Rear also shows caps location.