The MyECU thread

[kadavere]

Heres one that I found somewhere

Cali 1100 no modifications

 

Hope its useful

 

Static Config TDC=0x1c00, CylOffs=270, PulsesPer=32, MissingPulses=0,CoilCharge0=6000,CoilCharge1=2500
My16M Config RPM=8064, O2=124, TPS=100, ColdBoost=1300, WarmBoost=0, InjPos=330

THR         924   924   924   924   768   640   512   448   384   320   256   192   128    64     0

RPM         500  1000  1500  2000  2500  3000  3501  4002  4501  5000  6000  7009  8012  8012  8012  8012
SpkAdv 14  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23
SpkAdv 13  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23
SpkAdv 12  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23
SpkAdv 11  5.27 11.95 20.39 22.15 24.26 28.13 27.07 27.77 32.34 35.16 35.16 33.05 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23
SpkAdv 10  5.27 11.25 20.39 24.26 25.31 28.13 29.88 30.94 31.64 34.45 35.16 34.45 30.23 30.23 30.23 30.23
SpkAdv 09  5.27 10.20 18.63 22.85 25.31 29.53 30.94 30.59 32.34 34.80 35.16 35.16 31.29 31.29 31.29 31.29
SpkAdv 08  5.27 10.20 18.63 25.31 27.07 31.64 34.10 35.86 37.27 39.38 40.08 37.97 37.27 37.27 37.27 37.27
SpkAdv 07  5.27  9.14 16.17 22.50 25.31 30.59 33.75 36.21 38.67 39.73 41.13 40.08 39.38 39.38 39.38 39.38
SpkAdv 06  5.27  7.03 14.06 20.39 24.26 30.59 34.45 38.67 40.78 41.13 42.89 42.19 40.78 40.78 40.78 40.78
SpkAdv 05  5.27  5.27 13.71 20.39 23.20 31.29 36.21 40.78 42.19 43.24 44.30 43.24 42.89 42.89 42.89 42.89
SpkAdv 04  5.27  5.27 13.36 21.80 25.31 31.64 37.62 41.48 43.59 44.30 45.00 44.30 44.30 44.30 44.30 44.30
SpkAdv 03  5.27  5.27 12.66 22.50 26.72 34.10 39.38 43.24 44.65 45.00 45.70 44.65 44.65 44.65 44.65 44.65
SpkAdv 02  5.27  5.27 12.66 24.26 28.13 36.21 40.08 43.59 45.00 46.41 46.41 46.41 45.70 45.70 45.70 45.70
SpkAdv 01  5.27  5.27 12.66 25.31 29.18 36.21 41.48 44.30 46.41 47.11 47.11 46.76 46.41 46.41 46.41 46.41
SpkAdv 00  5.27  6.68  2.81  5.27 15.47 41.13 45.00 48.16 49.57 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27 50.27

RPM         500  1000  1500  2000  2500  3000  3501  4002  4501  5000  6000  7009  8012  8012  8012  8012
InjDur 14  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384
InjDur 13  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384
InjDur 12  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384
InjDur 11  5000 12464 12336 11872 11600 11168 11536 11088 11024 10768 13088 12768 12384 12384 12384 12384
InjDur 10  5000 12272 12080 11600 11408 10848 11040 10896 10624 10448 11264 10864 11088 11088 11088 11088
InjDur 09  5000 11808 11616 11488 11008 10608 10416  9632  8640  8288  8800  8336  7872  7872  7872  7872
InjDur 08  5000  9024  8896  8656  8384  8032  8176 10000  7120  6064  5856  5504  5168  5168  5168  5168
InjDur 07  5000  9008  8640  8448  8096  8880  8000  7312  7328  5616  5568  5200  5024  5024  5024  5024
InjDur 06  5000  9088  8208  8016  7280  7728  7360  6016  6016  5600  5632  4608  4912  4912  4912  4912
InjDur 05  5000  8256  7632  7072  6976  6816  6352  5312  5936  4768  5600  4528  3856  3856  3856  3856
InjDur 04  5000  6496  6368  6672  5872  5792  5568  4912  5024  4544  4576  3968  3632  3632  3632  3632
InjDur 03  5000  5536  5424  5344  4944  4976  5280  4176  4192  4288  3616  3376  3328  3328  3328  3328
InjDur 02  5000  4880  4608  4320  4784  4368  4384  3296  3200  3728  3680  3488  3280  3280  3280  3280
InjDur 01  4500  4080  3872  3392  3232  2400  2432  2496  2400  2160  1984  1920  1920  1920  1920  1920
InjDur 00  4000  3392  3200  2944  2880  2160  2160  2192  1856  1792  1728  1728  1728  1728  1728  1728

RPM         500  1000  1500  2000  2500  3000  3501  4002  4501  5000  6000  7009  8012  8012  8012  8012
Flags  14    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  13    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  12    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  11    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  10    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  09    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  08    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  07    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  06    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  05    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  04    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  03    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  02    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  01    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()    ()
Flags  00   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)   (O)

 

Tank You for the answer,i analize and try this map,all suggestion is welcomed!!

Tanks pasotibbs!

[kadavere]

The LC1 is a true good,powerful hardware and software,easy to use,setting,mounting.

But the original gauges is too expensive,i made a modify on my optimiser box and

circuitry,first a pushbutton with a click feedback,double the third button on the left of

the handlebar,change the display with one more great and readable built in a backlight

for a night tuning session,i add a simply circuit based on the bottom schematics for read

in real time the fast variations of the AFR or LAMBDA output of the LC1.this is more friendly

and fast than a number,immediately you understand what happens.

The next step is to close the display and bargraph with a sinthaglass,a liquid acrilic glass.

Is possible to think to close this in a round gauges from an old bike/car instrument for a

permanent installation,for this use you need the power supply on the bottom of the schematics

for a good work is better to enclose the diagnostic led of LC1,is not too rare this go on failure

state,but if you set a know volt output value for failure state you don't need other led,simply you

see only one led of the bargraph fixed,no other work.

Be sure to connect ONLY the signal from LC1,the ground is common don't need other connection

or maybe you create a dangerous ground loop!!! I used a good microphone shielded cable and

waterproof connector from AMP or TICO for external signal wiring and don't have any problem

of bad ground connection,only remember to weld the shield only in one side of the connection.

I hope my little experience help some guzzi's owner friends....

Kadavere

[luhbo]

Hi Kadavere,

 

I'm one of those having only pure fun with the MyEcu. I had the My15M Mk1 for 3 years or so, 2008 I finally switched to the Mk2 - also a smooth and flawlessy running unit.

I had problems sometimes, but every single time the fault was on my side. Faults can be made in the map (an "O"utch instead of an "0"-Zero e.g. - one of my favorites ), on the PCB (not looking good enough on the schematics when you assemble it) or in the flash or programming process. Once you have these things sorted the easy part begins.

 

Your map shows this:

 

RPM 500 1000 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2663 3061 3521 4045 4658 5357 6058 6756 7470

Flags 14 (O0) (O0) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1)

Flags 13 (O0) (O0) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1)

 

and this:

 

MyECU Cfg O2=0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,

MyECU Cfg 2ndO2Sensor=no

 

This could mean you're running the unit in a somewhat open loop. To avoid questions like that write a value into the second and the following cells. Lambda 0.9 will perfectly do. Don't ask how exactly the ECU interprets every single cell of the map, you won't get too much answers The better strategy is to avoid unnecessary questions.

 

If this will not give you better results then download the maps exactly as Cliff had sent them to you and run the MyEcu in "defined" Open Loop mode (using the switch). Don't forget to dial in the correct TPS offset. If this won't work then you have a problem somewhere else. Find it before you proceed. Remember that the +5V at the Optimiser are coming from the MyEcu. I don't think you should hook to much other devices to it. This might negatively affect the CPU (just an idea). BTW, I've heard from some people of having severe problems with the LC1 units. i don't have one myself, so it's pure gossip, but I'd give the open loop idea a try because of that.

 

Also make sure that you have set the TPS according to what the book says (and that you have dialed in the coresponding TPS-offset in the map).

 

Still no success? Then try the diametrically approach: download the original map from Cliff again and set your TPS to reach the offset value which Cliff had sent you with his map. Again try it open and closed loop.

 

Tonight I will post the values for starting up your engine. I don't have them at hand now. Starting actually is a very easy part of the game, you just need to have the proper values in the map.

 

Hubert

[kadavere]

Hi Kadavere,

 

I'm one of those having only pure fun with the MyEcu. I had the My15M Mk1 for 3 years or so, 2008 I finally switched to the Mk2 - also a smooth and flawlessy running unit.

I had problems sometimes, but every single time the fault was on my side. Faults can be made in the map (an "O"utch instead of an "0"-Zero e.g. - one of my favorites ), on the PCB (not looking good enough on the schematics when you assemble it) or in the flash or programming process. Once you have these things sorted the easy part begins.

 

Your map shows this:

 

RPM 500 1000 1322 1520 1750 2011 2314 2663 3061 3521 4045 4658 5357 6058 6756 7470

Flags 14 (O0) (O0) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1)

Flags 13 (O0) (O0) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1) (O1)

 

and this:

 

MyECU Cfg O2=0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,0.00V,

MyECU Cfg 2ndO2Sensor=no

 

This could mean you're running the unit in a somewhat open loop. To avoid questions like that write a value into the second and the following cells. Lambda 0.9 will perfectly do. Don't ask how exactly the ECU interprets every single cell of the map, you won't get too much answers The better strategy is to avoid unnecessary questions.

 

If this will not give you better results then download the maps exactly as Cliff had sent them to you and run the MyEcu in "defined" Open Loop mode (using the switch). Don't forget to dial in the correct TPS offset. If this won't work then you have a problem somewhere else. Find it before you proceed. Remember that the +5V at the Optimiser are coming from the MyEcu. I don't think you should hook to much other devices to it. This might negatively affect the CPU (just an idea). BTW, I've heard from some people of having severe problems with the LC1 units. i don't have one myself, so it's pure gossip, but I'd give the open loop idea a try because of that.

 

Also make sure that you have set the TPS according to what the book says (and that you have dialed in the coresponding TPS-offset in the map).

 

Still no success? Then try the diametrically approach: download the original map from Cliff again and set your TPS to reach the offset value which Cliff had sent you with his map. Again try it open and closed loop.

 

Tonight I will post the values for starting up your engine. I don't have them at hand now. Starting actually is a very easy part of the game, you just need to have the proper values in the map.

 

Hubert

 

Tank Hubert!

 

I'm happy you have fun with your bike+MyEcu,this is i want for me too!

 

Yes my map don't look so good....this is because before i set on the second O2 cell a value of 2.00V for build a richer map,

after,when i run in open loop i delete this value and put 0.00V+ move the switch on ECU

Why this?Because i make many night session (night is more safety in Italy,no police on the street i use for test! )

with the original WMP8 and LC1 + led bargraph,i understand this work incredible like an closed loop!! You see the the

AFR ratio with some little oscillation in every situation of RPM or load,AFR look around ratio of 13.

After many closed loop session in highway and street,i partially clone this on MyEcuP8,now the bike work better than a initial

map,in the mix street,fast,curves is funny!! i only have problem with the Idle to Wot to solve.

I follow your suggestion about avoid questions!True i don't have to know what MyEcu done inside

I have a little background of electronics and before i start to assemble i make a little"reverse engineering"of the schematics

and value of the three version of ECU's for be sure don't make a mistake on my assembly.This part of work is crossed with

success!Don't be fear,Cliff is smart and for voltage regulator used a well know and strong components,this have a low dropout

and able to delivery 1Amperes at 5V.

I have the LC1 kit only from 2 months and sincerely the only things of strange i found is that's fall in failure mode if fast you turn

ON-OFF the key,but surely to avoid problem need to follow all Innovate suggestions.

I control again my settings!

Tank for the suggestion Hubert!

[luhbo]

Yes, take it easy and you'll get the fun you've expected.

 

For starting the engine try out the following values:

 

----------------------------

# Prime gives the fuel injection time in ms while cranking

 

#Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125

Prime 50 40 30 30 25 20 20 12 7 5 5 5

 

# Crank is the % boost of the map injection times right after start

# this boost decays to 0 over about 20s

 

#Temp C -30 -20 -10 0 10 20 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 110 125

Crank 80 70 50 40 30 23 20 15 10 2 0 0 0 0 0 0

-----------------------------------------------------

 

These lines say what happens while the engine cranks. No further relation to other values in the map. Every time the piston aspirates the ECU gives a 20 ms shot of fuel (at 20 or 25°C), regardless how much throttle you have (use WOT for leaning it out if you think the engine has eventually drowned). At -30°C it would be 50 ms - you see you've got the perfect ECU for Rimini, your average temperature range is covered

For me these values work nearly perfect. Just "nearly perfect" only because the OEM ECU is unbeatable when it comes to starting.

 

If you have idle problems then try the following values as bottom line (you are sure that everything else is ok? Valve clearance, rubber sleeves, spark plugs ...) :

---------------------

InjDur 00 2672 2848 2512 1936 1616 1104 600 300 200 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

----------------------

 

If you have the voltage correction table set to zero you have to add 1000 to each value. Maybe that you need higher or even lower values, just do not make the fault to dial in to much difference between cell 1, 2 and 3. Remember, starting is triggered elsewhere, so there is no need to overly enrich cell 1. This would only drown the engine as soon as it falls below 1000 rpm by some reason.

Idle is at 1000, now use the optimiser to achieve a good ARF for this cell and then copy this InjDur-value to the first and third cell and make them a bit leaner to stabilise idle. It's that easy.

 

These lines are probably all you should alter in Cliff's map to achieve a usably running bike. Then adjust the map via Autotune to your needs, but only in small steps. If you actually have it 20 or more percent richer now than there is a good chance that the map has become inconsistent.

 

HTH, Hubert

[raz]

Cool idea with the bar graph LEDs. It never occured to me how simple and cheap that would be.

 

A couple of thoughts:

Have you confirmed that your analog LC-1 output match what you see when you read the digital channel? I had some discrepancy (+20 mV offset all over the range) even though my grounding is good, and I compensate for that in my LC-1 voltage settings. The digital outputs will be correct regardless of grounding offsets as long as there is good heater and free air calibrations.

On the other hand, if you mimic the voltages you see with the P8, you should be fine.

 

Have you tried datalogging with a computer in a tank bag or something? Maybe Cliff's accel pump emulation combined with a somewhat rich map add up to overly rich when pulling the throttle. A bit like the carburetted 1100 Sport when pinning it - you have to nurse it up to speed if it's not very good tuned, or it will choke on excessive amounts of fuel from the huge carbs.

[kadavere]

!!!!!!!You have A great baggage of experience!!!!!!

 

I have to start from the beginning my map,what i read in the MyEcu official page make only a confusion in me,

now with your and other suggestion i try a different approach that's i never consider before.....

I'm too nervous today rain,only rain!!!!Where i try my new map!!!!

 

TANKS!!!!!!!!

 

Ivan

[kadavere]

LOG.zip

 

 

HI!

 

For read the digital channel i need the log program from innovate?I try if i have the same offset,the problem for me is the neighbours,

in his blood don't flow the passion for the bike,i have to grab my Eee Pc and go in a parking....I'm too curious about this offset!!!!

The grounding is perfect,same screw for battery,ECU,LC1,welded not crimped,scratch the varnish and finally apply a special grease

used inside a 20KV junctions cable (i'm electrician )

Yes,i make a clone like of the P8,but now i have a doubt,i want to discover the offset ghost!

No,i don't logging MyEcu,my friend don't put on my Eee Pc the hyperterminal,when i have sure i log!!!

I logged the original WM P8 with a cheaper tool hardware+software i bought from Technoresearch if somebody is interested just for

curiosity i send the file of my log,controlled with norton and avira,the program is possible to found here:

http://www.technoresearch.com/Downloads/downloads-VDSTS

The standard version don't need a dongle....

Your idea about the motor choked is a way to follow,before i think diametrically opposed,maybe blind from high output value from LC1 and counseil from a rally car driver.....

Tanks,immediately after the rain stop i try!!!

Ivan

[greenmonster]

Nice idea w LEDs!

 

I logged the original WM P8 with a cheaper tool hardware+software i bought from Technoresearch if somebody is interested just for

curiosity i send the file of my log,controlled with norton and avira,the program is possible to found here:

http://www.technoresearch.com/Downloads/downloads-VDSTS

The standard version don't need a dongle....

 

Interesting. How did you connent PC to WM P8?

 

+1 on luhbo, go nice & easy from start, first things first.

[kadavere]

Nice idea w LEDs!

 

 

 

Interesting. How did you connent PC to WM P8?

 

+1 on luhbo, go nice & easy from start, first things first.

 

The interface is a cable,one end fitted with a AMP 3 poles connector and a fast connection for the battery poles,this is the ECU side,

in the center,sealed,the electronics,i imagine a microprocessor used like a dongle and a few component for translate the voltage level,but i never open,the other end have a 9 poles standard serial connector,i use a 9poles to usb converter.....

The sistem work good with a little Eee PC,i put this in the left suitcase and when come back i have my logging.

In the picture you see the little black suitcase,inside,visible, the cable and the software CD,the Eee PC is little but friendly object for this use,

the box connected is the USB converter + Cliff TTL to RS232 converter,on the bike you see MyEcu fitted in a WM case,not the original!!! I don't destroy the P8 for nothing at world!!This ECU is too rare,in Italy too,is more than a ECU,is very sophisticaded,in the past used on Sierra Cossworth and Lancia Delta Integrale,full capable of diagnostic for every pheriferial.....

The question now born....if you like too much the original,why bought MyEcu?...Simple,first i need a second ECU when in the summer i make my journey outside Italy (in the suitcase:1KG oil,throttle and friction wires,tools,tyres repair kit,relais,bulb,now ECU),second MyECU is too cheap,if you want to buy a software for Eprom analisis and programming minimum need 500-800 euros!!(only one ECU)

Third,if is possible to make a better feeling with the motor is better

in this picture the LC1 cable and pheriferial box,the box is filled whit a special gel i use for submersed electrical junctions,no humidity inside

The curious violet and white round object on the right side is an "absolute air filter"(a spare of air compressor i use for homebrewing) fitted on the pressure sensor inlet,before this was connected directly to airbox,but im not satisfied about the continous change of the original WM ECU,after i make this modify this be stable!!

[kadavere]

For me these values work nearly perfect. Just "nearly perfect" only because the OEM ECU is unbeatable when it comes to starting.

 

If you are couriuos what happens in the OEM ECU when it come to starting i made a log!!!!!!

In my other message you found the .Zip file and the coordinates for find the program for read.

[luhbo]

I'll have a look at this log file. That's some great information. Actually you've been the first here and elsewhere who was able to provide some information of what the OEM units do. Thanks for that.

 

Hubert

[greenmonster]

Is the VDSTS really freeware? Many options were locked for me when I opened it.

Can it read your log files which seems to be .text files, not .log files?

[kadavere]

Is the VDSTS really freeware? Many options were locked for me when I opened it.

Can it read your log files which seems to be .text files, not .log files?

Yes because for unlocking the principal function you need the interface,like a dongle,but for read the .log files i send you have to go in the "graphical page"and after load the file,few seconds and you see what my OEM ECU tell!!!

Is clear the many WOT i made!!!!

[kadavere]

I'll have a look at this log file. That's some great information. Actually you've been the first here and elsewhere who was able to provide some information of what the OEM units do. Thanks for that.

 

Hubert

 

All is possible for me to share i send!!!!!!

Again rain......i wait for try new settings....