raz Posted November 17, 2008 Author Posted November 17, 2008 Somebody know what is the cells called "InjAdv" and the effect on the motor? InjAdv (injection advance) is like spark advance, but for injection. This I know, but the details are unknown to me. It is 525 in all cells in almost all MyECU maps I've seen. The details are not documented and Cliff's web site even says it's currently not used (which should mean he has some hard coded advance). The site is very outdated so I don't trust that, especially since it's still there in the latest software I've seen. Anyway I think it's best to leave it at 525 until we know more. I never thought about it before but could it be 525 degrees (out of 720) before [the combustion stroke's] TDC? It's a quick guess but I think that makes sense. That should place it about where the intake valve opens, yes? I think I will google for other implementations of injection advance to understand it better.
kadavere Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 InjAdv (injection advance) is like spark advance, but for injection. This I know, but the details are unknown to me. It is 525 in all cells in almost all MyECU maps I've seen. The details are not documented and Cliff's web site even says it's currently not used (which should mean he has some hard coded advance). The site is very outdated so I don't trust that, especially since it's still there in the latest software I've seen. Anyway I think it's best to leave it at 525 until we know more. I never thought about it before but could it be 525 degrees (out of 720) before [the combustion stroke's] TDC? It's a quick guess but I think that makes sense. That should place it about where the intake valve opens, yes? I think I will google for other implementations of injection advance to understand it better. Hi Raz.... Tank for explain! Is frustrating to work whit a Cliff map,if you are lucky to find the right spot maybe you have a success but day by day,test by test everytime i put back my OEM ECU to my cali is like a discover a new world compared to MyP8,i come back now from a night journey with all two ECU's,the OEM simply you push the start button and add a little idle.......immediately start,stable idle,when drive a monstrous power at low rpm whit a peak incredible for a bike like a cali..... Cliff is able to sell but for assistance or instruction on his product is too negative,the only update on his site is some red lines of correction about the P8!!!!!!!!! My friend to want to buy an M15,is an adult responsible but i dont give my positive advice about this choice. I make many changes in my map,from too rich until too lean in the first 3 column,different INJ time and SPK but nothing..... I think the problem is inside the software strategy to manage the WOT,a bad throttle pump emulation and without any parameter to setting,the problem is not in the bike,this is perfect,tested by axone terminal,the problem is in the P8,software or hardware,if you dont have a great expectation a P8 is ok but the OEM is unbeable. Maybe Cliff sell only a few P8 and many M15 and spend more time for develope and improve this last.The electric-electronic plant of the two different bike to use P8 and M15 is too different,EFI-ECU too.... From the day i mounting to the bike until this evening the negative stuff is more than the satisfation i have But nothing is loose,time for put MyEcu P8 to a tray i have,i want to try again and spend time for see if this problem i possible to solve,if not i start to work to the OEM eprom........ Again thanks for the suggestion,all is welcomed!!! Ivan
kadavere Posted November 17, 2008 Posted November 17, 2008 Sorry!!! ..............a P8 is ok but the OEM is unbeatable. Ivan
raz Posted November 18, 2008 Author Posted November 18, 2008 I may be wrong but as far as I know the software/firmware is the same for MyP8, My16M and My15M. The electronics are basically the same too, with varying PCB and form factor. Most people are having the opposite experience than you have, that is the MyECU software is very well behaved. I think you will be quite happy as soon as we can nail what is wrong. Since you already run closed loop I'm puzzled it does not work better. Of course there is a theoretical chance something is wrong with your ECU, or the LC-1 setup. But my guess is we just have a map problem. You should confirm that the output from the LC-1 analog is what you think it is. Just connect a computer with Logworks software to the digital channel and verify the the digital readout matches the Optimizer O2 reading. Then, a MyECU log would be invaluable for us! If you could supply that, we could easily compare what is different between the P8 and the MyP8, as well as correlate LC-1 readings with various throttles. If you can't get HyperTerminal, there are other good serial terminal emulators for free download on the Internet. Meanwhile, what does the Optimizer tell you when running? Is it continuosly applying a correction factor? How much? What is the O2 voltage at idle? And at open throttle? You are in posession of wonderful tools, I predict a happy future
luhbo Posted November 18, 2008 Posted November 18, 2008 Ivan, take your time and take it easy. If you apply for help we should find a common agenda and look together what steps in what order showed what effect. The MyEcu stuff works pretty well as so often mentioned already, at least by me, but if you have all possibilities to change everything things can end up pretty weird as well. It's a complex thing. I suggested to try the unit in open loop first. The reason is, I wouldn't trust the LC1, I wouldn't trust the location of the probe and also it's not said that the exhaust is as tight as it should be. Also, as Raz has mentioned, an eventual correction factor implied by either an unsuitable map-cell or an unreliable O2 signal can make things even more confusing. Please try out the above step and report how things went. Before that you should have adjusted the TPS according to the book, also the valves, and a solid synchronisation would be helpfull as well. Then take the map that was sent to you by Cliff and don't alter anything besides the TPS offset. This map will work. Someone else already had it on his bike, if not Cliff himself, and your bike is exactly the same. By the way, I'm sure I could download it to my V11 and also had a well usable bike (as long as the TPS characteristics are the same). I can understand your feelings. When I got mine I thought everything was possible now, having insight and software and so. Then I had to learn that changing less is often more. What I've learned years before that was the funny fact that for fueling the same applies: less is more. One can easily make the fault to overly enrich the mixture where staying on the leaner side would have shown better effects. Hubert
emry Posted November 19, 2008 Posted November 19, 2008 I have not had the chance to really ride and test my maps. But the map I originally got from Cliff was unusable. Period. I used Raz's and Pasotib's maps, thanks for posting it by the way!!! You save me much trial and error. At least got me running. So serious tuning later I have a decent map, with a few oddities still, but time will solve those. Welcome to the fourm Kadavere!! Your posts are help full and I LOVE the bar graph!!!! Very slick(good) As you have found out this is the place for real assistance. I wish I had more to contribute. Best of luck.
pasotibbs Posted November 19, 2008 Posted November 19, 2008 I have not had the chance to really ride and test my maps. But the map I originally got from Cliff was unusable. Period. I used Raz's and Pasotib's maps, thanks for posting it by the way!!! You save me much trial and error. At least got me running. So serious tuning later I have a decent map, with a few oddities still, but time will solve those. Welcome to the fourm Kadavere!! Your posts are help full and I LOVE the bar graph!!!! Very slick(good) As you have found out this is the place for real assistance. I wish I had more to contribute. Best of luck. Glad I could help
luhbo Posted November 19, 2008 Posted November 19, 2008 I have not had the chance to really ride and test my maps. But the map I originally got from Cliff was unusable. Period. I used Raz's and Pasotib's maps, thanks for posting it by the way!!! You save me much trial and error. At least got me running..... Ok. That's a solid statement. I think it would be a fair thing to go a bit more into detail. What had to get changed to get you at least running? Being able to gain experience since the end of 2005 I can hardly believe what you say, Emry. The more as others are happily running the "OEM" (Cliff) map without ever having connected the MyEcu to a O2 probe. I'm sure you've done a comparison so that you know what you're talking of. Please let us know what was wrong. Hubert PS: reading your posting again it seems you had a problem to start the engine, hadn't you?
greenmonster Posted November 19, 2008 Posted November 19, 2008 Think Hubert`s advice is sound, start w basics, no Lambdas etc. About starting, a cold Ducati 888 4V started w MyP8 & Cliff Cali map totally unmodded! Something is funny w your settings since it starts easy w WM, all electrics & mechanics in the bike seems OK. Whatever TPS is set to, MyECU w call that 0, don`t think you need to adjust that. Just give it a try w step 1, MyP8 in open loop & Cliff`s Cali map. My 2c.
emry Posted November 20, 2008 Posted November 20, 2008 It would try to start little throttle but miss and spit. When it would start the map settings were very very lean. I am running pods and a drilled exhaust but I didn't think that it would make such a big difference. I had to almost double the inj. dur. to get it to run cleanly. While the upper ranges were close orginanlly the lower was what really made it unrideable. This is not a fault of Cliff's, he supplied me with a stock map for a Sport11 (if I recall, i need to do some digging for it, I have a V11 but the differneces are minor) I just wanted to point out that the stock map will not always suit a persons bike and may not be the best starting point. The OEM ECU on my bike was crap. It too was really lean, even with the stock airbox and cans. I had been longing for one of Cliff's units for some time to recitify this problem. Cliff's unit seems to be fully capable of doing what is required, I just need to spend the time to get the mapping right. Because untimately FI is no better than the person that fills the columns with numbers. At least now I can do the filling instead of a EPA mandated engineer. (US of course)
luhbo Posted November 20, 2008 Posted November 20, 2008 Are all other components ok? Especially the TPS? The temperature sensors? The more as you had similar problems while using the OEM unit if I've got you right. I mean, if you had to almost double the puls widths then this fact points to something different. BTW, in this case at least Raz should have experienced the same, shouldn't he? I for instance found Cliff's maps a bit on the rich side to be honest (different probe etc.) Talking about cans and filters: I once switched from "Look Through" Mistral race cans to the quite restrictive catalysed Quat-D Ex-Box. That was a huge difference in performance and driveability. My word on it! While at WOT the Mistrals demanded whatever fuel the nozzles could deliver, reving and bawling aggressivly into the limiter (in 5th at least ^^) , the Quat-D felt as if above 6000 you're running straight into a rubber wall. On the other hand the punch a Quat-D delivers between 3500 and 5500 is more than impressive compared to that of an open exhaust. So, huge differences on the road, how much of them are mirrored in the maps: Not more than +- 10% for the most affected cells. Practically this means I could switch the maps and run them open loop without any really remarkable difference in the behaviour of the bike. Midrange a bit lean, WOT a bit rich. What I want to say with all this is: the influence of pipes and swiss chees boxes on the maps is generally hugely overestimated! If you claim that your bike is unrideable with a different map from a so similar bike, than there are other things that make them uncomparable. Could be TPS (still ok?), TPS setting, sensors or generall approach to such things (with all respect for the last words). And hey, others just use whatever pipes they like together with the unmodded Marelli ecu and are very satisfied. Hubert
pasotibbs Posted November 20, 2008 Posted November 20, 2008 Its easy to forget that while cranking you are going up the 500 RPM column so its worth looking at the ECUcontroller to see where you are on the map and perhaps changing the values to suit ? I also backed off the Ign Advance off to 7 degrees for the 500 RPM column as mine was kicking back badly while cranking. I also found that mine starts better without any crank boost (all set to 0) and the fast idle only on 1/3rd to 1/2 way, so it may be that my map is still needs work in this area ?
luhbo Posted November 20, 2008 Posted November 20, 2008 Folks, could it be that I have missed some important things of how the MyECU works? Could be, because I'm only 99.5% satisfied with it Really, I always thought that with starting is dealt somewhere else in the map file, not in the InjDur matrix. I thought SparkAdvance while starting is this: ------------------- # TDCWhileCranking=1 will fire the spark at TDC # TDCWhileCranking=0 will fire with advance from the map MyECU Cfg TDCWhileCranking=1 ------------------- If so, you should set the spark advance back to 10 or even 12 or 15 degrees in the 500 column. It helps to stabilise idle. And all that for free! Ain't that a thing, ha? Hubert And of course there are separate fields for cranking and start enrichement as well. Leave the first row alone, it has nothing to do with starting. At least I like to think of it this way, and I'm one of the happy owners.
pasotibbs Posted November 20, 2008 Posted November 20, 2008 Folks,could it be that I have missed some important things of how the MyECU works? Could be, because I'm only 99.5% satisfied with it Really, I always thought that with starting is dealt somewhere else in the map file, not in the InjDur matrix. I thought SparkAdvance while starting is this: ------------------- # TDCWhileCranking=1 will fire the spark at TDC # TDCWhileCranking=0 will fire with advance from the map MyECU Cfg TDCWhileCranking=1 ------------------- If so, you should set the spark advance back to 10 or even 12 or 15 degrees in the 500 column. It helps to stabilise idle. And all that for free! Ain't that a thing, ha? Hubert And of course there are separate fields for cranking and start enrichement as well. Leave the first row alone, it has nothing to do with starting. At least I like to think of it this way, and I'm one of the happy owners. You may be right but these changes made it possible for me to start the bike, before I had to use the old ECU to warm it up then swap to the MyECU but now it starts easily every time even after being stood for several weeks. We probably need Cliff to clarify these points.
luhbo Posted November 20, 2008 Posted November 20, 2008 Why not. It's winter anyway. They said tomorrow we'll see the first snow. Besides that the MyEcu maps now are already very well commented. cu, Hubert
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