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Posted

I would suspect one of the rectifiers in the alternator. can you use a DVOM with a diode function or an analog meter?

Posted

That can be fairly normal. Does it go away as soon as the revs pick up? What rpm are you doing at idle?

Posted

Check connections between alternator and regulator, and between regulator and the rest (including ground of course) before suspecting anything else. In particular, check the (probably yellow) connectors between alternator and regulator. Undo them and inspect them, put a little dielectric grease on them before they go back in.

While those connectors are undone though, you could measure alternator output with a 200 VAC volt meter. It should read 15V at 1000 rpm, 40V at 3000 rpm and some 80V at 6000 rpm.

 

You may want to take a look at this fuse too.

Posted

And, perhaps, the idle speed has just gotten a bit low. Some tachs read high by as much as 500 rpm. If so, your tach could show 1000 while the girls struggles to stay lit at 500 rpm.

Guest funhunter63
Posted
And, perhaps, the idle speed has just gotten a bit low. Some tachs read high by as much as 500 rpm. If so, your tach could show 1000 while the girls struggles to stay lit at 500 rpm.

 

I just bought a 98 EV11. At idle (500 RPM on the tach) the low bat light flickers. Rev it just a little, maybe 750RPM and the light goes away. Normal?

Guest funhunter63
Posted
well... the idle should be around 1000-1100 rpm ;)

 

What should I adjust first? I guess the TPS and get the idle right? Never done it before, but this site has a very good sticky on this at the top. Thanks guys!

Guest funhunter63
Posted
do TPS balance and synchro, that will help a LOT!

 

at least, on my V11 it did :)

 

 

"Next, close the bypasses, keep the right throttle idle screw backed off to put the connecting rod in tension, removing any backlash, and balance the throttles at idle using the connecting rod adjustment. Screw in the left throttle idle screw if the idle is too low to maintain. Do not use the choke for this purpose, because that would put the connecting rod in compression, introducing backlash."

 

After this it should be synced. Correct?

 

I am a little confused. When should I tighten the right throttle idle screw? that got left out of the procedure in the sticky I think.

 

Is there a difference between the "right throttle idle screw" and the "right ilde screw"?

 

I don't have a computer, so can I just set the idle to 1100 with the bypasses at the point.

 

Then I'm done. correct?

Posted

Hello funhunter63,

The pinned instructions are for V11 Sport models. Your EV11 is a little different. See this link for instructions for your bike: http://www.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html

 

Since you are a new owner you may not know that there's a few other Guzzi forums out there that might have more info for your particular model. Since this forum is more focused on the V11 sport models you might get more/better responses to questions about your EV at one of these sites that cover all Guzzis:

http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?board=1.0

http://forum.guzzitech.com/index.php?optio...at&catid=13

Posted

My idle speed according to the tach is right at 1000 RPM. I'll do a little poking around and check some of the things that were mentioned in this thread. Thanks for the feedback.

Posted
My idle speed according to the tach is right at 1000 RPM. I'll do a little poking around and check some of the things that were mentioned in this thread. Thanks for the feedback.

I'm guessing your tach lies and the the whole set-up will be happier at a higher rpm. Maybe even 500 rpm higher . . .

Guest funhunter63
Posted

Hello,

 

I have owned a 1998 EV11 for 9 days now. It would not idle fast enough to keep the battery light from coming on when I got it. So, I checked/set the valves to .003 intake and .005 exhaust. I corrected the TPS from 0.090 Volt to 0.153 Volt. I set the TPS side Trootle boday to 525 mV befrore reattaching the linkage. I adjusted the screw that adjusts the balance on the TPS side and the right side so the the thtrottle bodies were synced at idle. I tried to set the air bleed screws so that it idled at just over 1000 RPM while maintaining sync or balance.

 

I replaced the spark plug and set the gap to 0.7 mm.

 

Now the idle seems to vary from one stop light to the next. Might be as low as 500 on the tach to 1100. Most of the time 800-1100.

 

It seems to be missing. I am saying that by just listening to it. It just does not seem right, but I don't know what right is for sure.

 

What should I check to see if it is missing?

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