docc Posted November 13, 2006 Posted November 13, 2006 Waytek's site wouldn't take my $3.00 order so I'll give them a call. Gotta have one of those circuit breakers. ! I'm running a 10 amp fuse for my headlaight circuit and lowered the 15a to a 10a in the fuse block for the ignition switch.
motoguzznix Posted November 13, 2006 Posted November 13, 2006 I did not read the complete thread, but I will tell you my solution of the problem: Simply install 2 further relays for the high and low beam. There are sockets available to be added to the front section of the original relay block. The seat has to get a cutout for the 2 relays. + for the beam is taken from the starter relay input, 2 wires from the light switch will activate the relays, 2 x 2,5mm wires from the relays will lead to the high and low beam. A ground wire for each relay is needed, ready. The most effort is the installation of 4 wires from the relay block to the beam connector with the connectors necessary. The advantages are: This subtracts the current of the beam from the starter and light relay. the beam will still go off when starting the beam current is not in the light switch (big advantage) therefore highest possible tension on the beam contacts A horn and flasher relay is not necessary, as the switch and the relays involved will withstand the very occsional activation. Another possiblity for the + would be to use the free fuse in the fuse block with a fat 2,5 mm wire to the beam relays.
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 13, 2006 Posted November 13, 2006 The best bet when adding relays to the headlights is to mount the relays right in the headlight shell. Run a new 12 or 14 gauge feed, fused directly from the battery to the relay contacts. Also run a new ground from the headlight bulb to the frame or engine. Use the same size wiring as the supply wire from the battery. The relay coils are activated from the original headlight wiring. Using the original wiring to feed the headlights defeats a huge element of the benefits of relay switching. Click on pic:
dlaing Posted November 13, 2006 Author Posted November 13, 2006 A horn and flasher relay is not necessary, as the switch and the relays involved will withstand the very occsional activation. Also because you are taking a big portion of load off the flasher and all its wiring, and you are taking a big portion of load off of SOME, but not all, of the horn wiring.
luhbo Posted November 13, 2006 Posted November 13, 2006 My old R65 bimmer had a switch that could be "balanced" to the mid position allowing for both high and low beams to be on at the same time. Both filaments also blew out at the same time at oh:dark-thirty and I had to limp home eight miles on just the running lights in my turn signals. Let's just say that I don't encourage running both beams simultaneously except for the flash mode. Thanks for that hint, Carl. I'm doing, better I was doing , the same sometimes. But the filaments for sure are not designed to light both at the same time. The excessive heat will kill them pretty likely. So when do I have both running: when I think I don't see enough. When will they likely fail: when I don't see enough. Exactly the "right" scenario... Hubert
Guest Gary Cheek Posted November 13, 2006 Posted November 13, 2006 Waytek's site wouldn't take my $3.00 order so I'll give them a call. Gotta have one of those circuit breakers. ! I'm running a 10 amp fuse for my headlaight circuit and lowered the 15a to a 10a in the fuse block for the ignition switch. If they don't want your money PM me with your address. I'll drop one in the mail box fer ya. I gots a bunch of em.
Guest mr.sala Posted May 14, 2007 Posted May 14, 2007 Hey guys! Thank you for this topics, it helps me to solve my relay failures! So i'll enjoy the "Anima Guzzista" meeting THANK YOU ALL! Mauro
st. augustine Posted January 8, 2010 Posted January 8, 2010 wanted to let you know that I was having some problems with my starter button working intermittantly. I checked all the usual suspects (kick stand, starter button, clutch, etc.) without much luck. This forum helped by giving me the hint to hold in the starter switch while disengaging the kill switch. That kept me out of a bind on trips to the local store etc. The final fix involved changing out the relays which were provided by John at Matra Inc. (J & H Mickowski ). So far no problems thanks to John. St. Augustine
Kiwi_Roy Posted January 17, 2010 Posted January 17, 2010 The best bet when adding relays to the headlights is to mount the relays right in the headlight shell. Great idea, as an electrician I looked at the schematic and worried that the headight might fail with all those contacts in series. Using a separate relay for each filament should mean at least one will remain working. As a winter project I added an LED to the base of each relay wired to the N/O contact that way I can tell at a glance if one has failed to pick up Roy
Guest ratchethack Posted January 17, 2010 Posted January 17, 2010 Anybody know what ever happened to Gary Cheek? Dan, I went to school with lots of people from the Detroit area (where Gary was, last I knew). By the time I graduated college, even Western Michigan (opposite side of the state) was getting "too close" to Detroit. Parts of Detroit were starting to resemble a war zone by then. Some o' the experiences of the guys who came from there were beyond imagination. I got out before the complete collapse of the entire state economy. Detroit Eurocycles (the last Guzzi dealer in the state, I think) closed down over 2 years back. This VIDEO likely provides a few solid hints about why Gary's dropped off the multiple Guzzi Forum radars for awhile: I reckon you've seen much the same on the south side (and surrounding areas) of Chicago?
Greg Field Posted January 17, 2010 Posted January 17, 2010 Dan, I went to school with lots of people from the Detroit area (where Gary was, last I knew). By the time I graduated college, even Western Michigan (opposite side of the state) was getting "too close" to Detroit. Parts of Detroit were starting to resemble a war zone by then. Some o' the experiences of the guys who came from there were beyond imagination. I got out before the complete collapse of the entire state economy. Detroit Eurocycles (the last Guzzi dealer in the state, I think) closed down over 2 years back. This VIDEO likely provides a few solid hints about why Gary's dropped off the multiple Guzzi Forum radars for awhile: I reckon you've seen much the same on the south side (and surrounding areas) of Chicago? Gary live in Utica, which is north of Detroit. Last I heard, he was doing well. He grew tired of squabbling on forums.
Dan M Posted January 18, 2010 Posted January 18, 2010 Gary live in Utica, which is north of Detroit. Last I heard, he was doing well. He grew tired of squabbling on forums. Sensible guy that Gary. I understand fully.
Guest ratchethack Posted January 18, 2010 Posted January 18, 2010 Aye. And here's to playin' all your cards on the table.
dlaing Posted January 19, 2010 Author Posted January 19, 2010 I hope you guys don't follow suit? Maybe you should just stop the squabbling.
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