bevel drive slop

[nigev11]

sorry if this posts twice...

 

fiddling around i noticed my (01 rosso mandello) rear bevel drive seems to be way to loose or sloppy.

 

If i grab it, I can rattle it laterally in pretty much any direction by a couple of mm, with a disconcerting little clonking noise.

 

Intuition tells me its too much movement to be healthy and would cause all sorts of stresses and misalingment

 

Im guessing maybe ive omitted the spacer washer, overloaded the bearings and wrecked them; otherwise they should pevent the bevel drive from moving around the axis of the axle; right? Im also assuming this is horrendous for the spline wear/alingnment and not great for the cardan.

 

FWIW, its almost 9 months since last rear wheel removal and not a hint of noise or losseness has been perceptable. Only clue is i DID notice a little rust stain dripping down from below the axle over the bevel box a couple of wash's back, thats what got me poking....

 

a) can a couple of you go out and wobble yours to see if any movement is perceptable?

read lots of posts couldnt find any such other stories; clues?

c) thank god for this forum!!!

d)this coudl be very bad, right?

 

nigev11

[Greg Field]

The little outboard needle bearing's shot, most likely.

[dhansen]

Nothing to do but tear her apart nige and have a look. Movement described in mm can't be good.

 

I bet the needle bearing is dry and shot. I'd almost bet one or both wheel bearings will need replacement too.

 

Hope it isn't any worse.

 

Dennis.

[nigev11]

nice one guiys, thansk for the feedback.

 

Ill go home, warn the wife and start pulling it apart.

 

nigev11

[raz]

Needle bearing part no is HK 2516-2RS and a separate inner race IRZ 20x25x18. Those are standard bearing numbers, not very expensive. Guzzi part numbers are 92252225 and 92259025. That goes for both V11 and older 1100 Sports

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=9794

[pete roper]

Needle bearing part no is HK 2516-2RS and a separate inner race IRZ 20x25x18. Those are standard bearing numbers, not very expensive. Guzzi part numbers are 92252225 and 92259025. That goes for both V11 and older 1100 Sports

 

Great! Numbers! The silly git is coming up here on Saturday. I'll see if I can pick one up tomorrow so its on hand.

 

Pte

[nigev11]

hey nice one guys

 

good news is got it all apart and evrything (except the bearing you guessed at) looks fine.

 

splines, my biggest worry, look good as new, no sign of wear that my aging eyes can see.

 

All other bearings look and feel good too.

 

So a few questions;

a) am i right that to get this bearing out i have to diassemble the whole box? not beyond me but i dont have the special tools and would prefer to trust the reshimming and re ass to someone with the set up, doing it regularly

see photo; im pointing at the culprit; should there be any type of shim or seal outboard of thisbetween the box and swingarm?? The housing kind of looks like it would take a shim or seal but nothing there...

c)pheeeeewh

d)id be a (bigger) top of penis :-) not to replace all bearings, seals and gaskets while we are in there and after almost 50k kms woudlnt i. Yes you would. Uou are a top of penis :-) despite this.

 

nigev11

[dhansen]

While everything is apart you should also dig into the cush drive and do the drilling mods to the rubbers. Sure did make a difference on mine.

 

Dennis.................. wondering if all of oz is as whacky as this lot. I'd die of a terminal grin should I ever visit!

[Bruce Reader]

Should be a washer that sits around the outer edge of the bearing in your photo. Pack it with grease and stick the washer on with some more- keep the pressure hose away from it. I regrease it all every time the wheel is off. My 2nd bearing has lasted 3 times the first so far.

 

Cheers

 

Bruce

 

p.s- Wise to get the bearing and sleeve from a bearing dealer as the parts from Guzzi were robbery.

[raz]

So a few questions;

a) am i right that to get this bearing out i have to diassemble the whole box? not beyond me but i dont have the special tools and would prefer to trust the reshimming and re ass to someone with the set up, doing it regularly

No disassembly, this bearing might be the easiest one to replace on the whole bike. Just remove the inner race with your bare hands and then pull the bearing out using an internal puller or something. Mine came out easily without heat.

 

Note that the bevel box will have some slop even after replacing the bearing, don't expect it to become rock solid.

[Dan M]

d)id be a (bigger) top of penis :-) not to replace all bearings, seals and gaskets while we are in there and after almost 50k kms woudlnt i.

nigev11

 

I believe in this circle that would be capo di cazzo

[nigev11]

FOLLOW UP; POST REPAIRS

 

hi all; just a quickie to let you knwo how it all panned out.

 

Roper kindly replaced the suspect outer needle bearing with alow cost non standard item. Slightly different length, no problem.

 

Refitted a replacement outer washer (was missing)

 

Fitted new wheel bearings (no problems)

 

Checked the cush drive; all perfect and clean and even came apart well. Drilled and greased the cush rubbers, replaced the brocken cush drive friction gasket, fitted s/s screws and anti seize paste. Got a new spindle (nyloc) nut from the local bolt shop for $2.40.

 

Re-assembled everything with plenty of lube and torques to the coorect setting of 120Nm.

 

Hey presto, good as gold.

 

Rear end feels notciably smoother and less harsh on changes. Free rotation is good and so, Im back on the road and will keep an eye on things but it feels great. Thanks for all your help!