nigev11 Posted October 18, 2008 Posted October 18, 2008 hey doing my rear end work, replacing bevel bearing i noticed my rear axle/spindle is worn. Cant find dimensions anywhere, any one know what it should measure in diameter? Im getting anywhere between 19.69 and 19.95mm. Second question on the axle torque The relevant page showing diagram suggests 28-30Nm for the spindle nut, which seems very low to me. HOWEVER, the torque table at the front of the manual says 120Nm for the "rear wheel spindle screw (housing side)" Is this the rear axle or is it something else? I note the front spindle value is 90-100 so it would be logical the rear is similar and not so low.... nigev11
mark.gilmore Posted October 18, 2008 Posted October 18, 2008 hey doing my rear end work, replacing bevel bearing i noticed my rear axle/spindle is worn. Cant find dimensions anywhere, any one know what it should measure in diameter? Im getting anywhere between 19.69 and 19.95mm. Second question on the axle torque The relevant page showing diagram suggests 28-30Nm for the spindle nut, which seems very low to me. HOWEVER, the torque table at the front of the manual says 120Nm for the "rear wheel spindle screw (housing side)" Is this the rear axle or is it something else? I note the front spindle value is 90-100 so it would be logical the rear is similar and not so low.... nigev11 Hay Nige, how'd you go getting that needle bearing out of your bevel?did you press it out.?
savagehenry Posted October 18, 2008 Posted October 18, 2008 Hi Nigev11, I posted the same torque question awhile back. Got the answer here in about 10 minutes. This is a great site for this type of problem, and is exactly why I try to buy Jaap a few beers a year through a contribution to this site at least once a year. The higher torque is correct. Don't forget to grease the problematic front driveshaft zerkes. And clean and lube that cush drive while the rear wheel is off. I couldn't believe the difference it made, even without my pucks being drilled. Good luck, S.H.
nigev11 Posted October 18, 2008 Author Posted October 18, 2008 savage henry; wow, good to know thanks; THE MANUAL IS WROMG THEN!!!! Ill clean and grease the cush and repeat; whats the deal with drilling them? I couldnt find any references when I searched. I agree on this site and you are right, I have gained heaps and owe some goodwill in return. Mark; on the bearing i took the lazy/safe option and sent it to pete roper with instructions to give the whole drive a once over. Figure at 50k its probably wortha check anyway.
mark.gilmore Posted October 18, 2008 Posted October 18, 2008 savage henry; wow, good to know thanks; THE MANUAL IS WROMG THEN!!!! Ill clean and grease the cush and repeat; whats the deal with drilling them? I couldnt find any references when I searched. I agree on this site and you are right, I have gained heaps and owe some goodwill in return. Mark; on the bearing i took the lazy/safe option and sent it to pete roper with instructions to give the whole drive a once over. Figure at 50k its probably wortha check anyway. So then did Roper change your needle bearing?Mine is stuffed,thinking of replacing it with nylon bush.
raz Posted October 18, 2008 Posted October 18, 2008 I think this is "the" thread about cush drive: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11820 Not everybody will agree they should be drilled (personally I haven't done it yet but consider it), but anyway they should be looked at and greased.
savagehenry Posted October 18, 2008 Posted October 18, 2008 Ill clean and grease the cush and repeat; whats the deal with drilling them? I couldnt find any references when I searched. I agree on this site and you are right, I have gained heaps and owe some goodwill in return. When you read the excellent thread Raz noted, you'll get the gist. I personally don't feel it's nessecary. My bike had 5,000 miles from new when I bought it. At 6k, I did tires. My most excellent bike guy said he would check the cush drive while at it. Low and behold, the pucks were DRY. I cannot overstate what a difference in the driveline lash that was softened as a result of this simple maintenence detail. ...and yeah, this place is the shit, period.
gstallons Posted October 19, 2008 Posted October 19, 2008 What type of grease are you all using on these pucks? Is there any long term affect on the rubber?
dhansen Posted October 19, 2008 Posted October 19, 2008 What type of grease are you all using on these pucks? Is there any long term affect on the rubber? I used a water proof wheel bearing grease on mine about a month ago. Haven't disintegrated yet!
Greg Field Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Here's a sample of one. My V11's rear axle is machined really horribly. There're many "steps" in it. Yours was probably machined the same way.
tmcafe Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 savage henry; wow, good to know thanks; THE MANUAL IS WROMG THEN!!!! It looks like whoever did the typing and illustrations (Luigi or rather Luigia) saw a few pages before there were two screws pictured with the torque 28-30Nm (from the ones for the brake disks). On the rear there's only one disk, but for consistency, they felt like showing the same torque for the screw shown as being inserted from the opposite side--which happened to be the axle. There should have been a disclaimer in the manual: "All instructions herein must be checked with and confirmed by v11lemans." But Luigi/Luigia aren't alone. As an example, the manual for my other bike, written by folks von dem Vaterland. Granted, it's much better organized. There's a general list of torques, but then each job has its torque specs shown on the same page, unlike the "tighten to the torque indicated on chapter blah, blah". However, even the proud Germans have their screwups. Some folks have broken a front wheel spacer by (over)tightening to the high torque shown in the shop manual. Fortunately there's a great forum for the F650GS too.
Paul Minnaert Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Here's a sample of one. My V11's rear axle is machined really horribly. There're many "steps" in it. Yours was probably machined the same way. Greg I think do you know why the steps are there. To make it easy to get it through the bearings
badmotogoozer Posted October 21, 2008 Posted October 21, 2008 Better to use a silicone based grease rather than a petroleum based grease. Not knowing the composition of the puck material, I'd go with silicone to not worry about deterioration.
mark.gilmore Posted October 22, 2008 Posted October 22, 2008 Better to use a silicone based grease rather than a petroleum based grease. Not knowing the composition of the puck material, I'd go with silicone to not worry about deterioration. I use rubber grease,I think that would be all right.
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