Desdinova Posted October 18, 2008 Posted October 18, 2008 I didn't want to pollute the other starter related thread if not necessary. As I noted in an earlier thread I couldn't get my bike to idle/run using any of the posted methods so I decided to go "old school" on the project. To make a long story short, I did EVERYTHING and checked EVERYTHING that one can possibly check, sensors, cables, relays etc etc etc.. Well, I got the bike to run. Could only get it to run smooth at about 1700 rpm. TPS volts at 501mv, carbs balanced, PCII NOT in the loop. While adjusting the ByPass screws didn't seem to have a great affect on vacume, it sure did on weather the bike ran or not. Right side out about 1 1/8th and left only 3/4. ANYTHING other than that, and it would start coughing a spitting. So I figure fine.. This is at least running and I can research further. Well that was short lived. I let the bike cool off and was going to hook up the PCIII. Just wanted to check to make sure it started first. NOTHING Well not nothing. Lights, Voltage, Fuel Pump, all normal. Even hooked up the VDSTS to the bike. Everything checks out. Just no engine turning. Did the starter let go in the middle of all this? As I said, plenty of voltage, swapped the relays, lights, fuel pump, all fine. Coils test out, etc etc.. just press starter and get nothing. I moved the shiftlever and I can hear the relay for nuetral click, so that's not it either. Engine just not turning over. not happy
gstallons Posted October 19, 2008 Posted October 19, 2008 Before you start, do you own and can you use a test light? If you answered yes to both ?s good. #1 is the neutral light on?If not check the neutral switch on the shift cover on the trans. If is on, touch the test light to the small wire on the starter and push the start button. If the light is off the problem is with the start wiring circuit. If the light is on the problem is elsewhere. #2 touch the test light to the battery cable at the starter solenoid.It should be on at all times. If you hear a click ( the solenoid functioning),touch the test light to the other large terminal at the solenoid. If it does not light the problem is in the solenoid. If it does light the problem is in the starter. p.s. I hope you have a magnifying glass and your owners manual to look at the wiring diagram.
Desdinova Posted October 20, 2008 Author Posted October 20, 2008 Thanks for the test light tip... I was in a state of.... well... remember the saying... When you're up to your butt in alligators, it's easy to loose track that the mission was to drain the swamp!!! It turned out to be the Clutch lever safety switch was acting up. Just fiddling with it apparently did the trick. Now back to the other thread..... or maybe just start a new one.
gstallons Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 After I posted all that exercise I remembered (lying in bed) that I left out the clutch switch test. "Pay no attention to the man behind that curtain"! * * The Wizard of Oz
wheelsucker Posted October 24, 2008 Posted October 24, 2008 Just a note to others do a search in the future, if your bike starts then its generally not your starter. The starter works by sending an electric pulse to your solenoid which actuates a plunger/pushrod that extends a gear mechanism on the "actual" starter that has a rotating gear. The gear engages the a gear on the crankshaft (or I believe its connected to the crankshaft) and essentially starts up the motor. This is where the spark plugs and FI take over and the starter sits idle and the gear on the starter retracts, which is why you hear a grinding noise when you hit the starter button when the motor is already running. So in the end, if you can consistently start your motor then it most likely is not your starter.
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