Bled clutch/ broken master cylinder spring

[gstallons]

Hey ! I have one of those "cable lube tools" too !

[gstallons]

And april of 2009 was the last time .

[docc]

4 hours ago, gstallons said:

Hey ! I have one of those "cable lube tools" too !

I don't think I've ever lubed the high idle cable before . . .

[docc]

On 11/4/2008 at 2:53 PM, Darius said:

1- Dust seal can go on afterward.

2- Use the assembly lube that comes with the rebuild kit. I just lubed with brake fluid and wish used the grease. Note that many greases react badly to brake fluid so use only the special stuff.

3- You can also pry the metal ring out carefully so as not to damage the cylinder bore. I used a very small flat head screw driver to get behind the ring.

Darius is right about the ring prying out (no Dremel required).

There is always a measure of satisfaction getting eyes and fingers on the definitive source of trouble. 

This is the jumble I found the spring in:

Four pieces, again:

[docc]

Back on the road. Shifts better than it has in a long, long time. I knew this spring was broken since I have been periodically adjusting the lever further and further out Then, turned the plunger engagement out as far as it would go.

I did make a cylindrical drive tool to seat the retention ring since the socket I tried using the first time tore the dust seal.

I'm just planning on a rebuild at 300.000 kays this time . . .

[docc]

BTW, this is the rebuild kit I used. Brembo number: 110436292

I questioned the MG Cycle "rectangular" description and that the V11 is not in the applications list, yet there we have it . . .

https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=110_112&products_id=5196

[deadpen69]

Good evening, In the process of bleeding/replacing the dot 4 in my clutch. Is it possible to ingest enough air into the system that it will barely move fluid at all? 

[docc]

6 minutes ago, deadpen69 said:

Good evening, In the process of bleeding/replacing the dot 4 in my clutch. Is it possible to ingest enough air into the system that it will barely move fluid at all? 

Yep. With fluid in the reservoir, give the lever some "wiggles" and watch for bubbles. When the bubbles quit, give it a "gravity flush". Open the lower bleeder on the slave and drain it into a container. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir and keep refilling as it gravity flushes. I refilled about five times before starting the 10-lever pumps/closed bleeder-> open the bleeder-> repeat five or six times.

I also, intermittently, strapped the lever to the grip and even tapped the M/C to dislodge air bubbles.

[deadpen69]

Thank you very much sir! I seem to do this every time with brakes also. My least favorite part of maintaining these machines. Last year I took my k-bike in and had it done.

 

[deadpen69]

On 7/4/2023 at 8:43 PM, docc said:

Yep. With fluid in the reservoir, give the lever some "wiggles" and watch for bubbles. When the bubbles quit, give it a "gravity flush". Open the lower bleeder on the slave and drain it into a container. Watch the fluid level in the reservoir and keep refilling as it gravity flushes. I refilled about five times before starting the 10-lever pumps/closed bleeder-> open the bleeder-> repeat five or six times.

I also, intermittently, strapped the lever to the grip and even tapped the M/C to dislodge air bubbles.

I have rinsed and repeated several times and the result is nearly zero clutch lever. It was functioning fine before this attempted clutch fluid maintenance.  After 5 reservoirs gravity flush  I closed it up and 10 pumped repeatedly with a only slight boil over at the slave. I think I have a grasp on what needs to happen but i cant seem to get there. The slotted adjustment adjustment screw has also been epoxied in place as close as can figure. So I guess need to address that. What am I missing? Should I rebuild the master? Any advice is appreciated. Thanks

[docc]

If your V11 is on the side stand, the clutch master is already positioned low (aimed downward) and can trap an air bubble, either in the black plastic elbow from the reservoir tube or in the banjo fitting. Try positioning the bike so those parts can be rotated to the highest level. Then, consider strapping the lever to the grip overnight; maybe give the trap areas a little light tapping from time to time.

[deadpen69]

I was in the process of greasing the front U joint and inspecting bearings when I hit this snag. The bike is on a center stand on a lift with the swing arm removed. I even went so far as to carefully separate the perch from the bars and manipulate the whole thing so any bubbles had an opportunity to rise without letting the reservoir t draw air.  I don't know why the PO glued the screw?? I can't imagine the MC just decided to poop the bed at the very instant I tried to maintenance it. I really have 2 choices. Figure it out or burn the garage down. I'm going to sleep on it.

[docc]

Is there a wee spring indexing that plunger screw?

(The tips of which are seen on the upper side of the lever through the two holes):

 

[Lucky Phil]

https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/brake-bleeder-kits/products/0100-european-bleeder

[deadpen69]

The spring is present. Note the glue or epoxy in the screw slot? I assume I want to be able to adjust this?