cleaning rusty splines and bearings

[arek]

I took the rear wheel of for a tire change, and decided to do the Cush maintenance while at it. I took it all apart (those f$%#@% button heads) and I was just wondering what to use to clean the rust off the spline on the wheel and on the transmission before greasing it all? There is also some rust on the inside of the cush-drive plate and the outside bearing that it sits on. Any suggestions? Also, should the ring that sits between the flange and the cush-drive plate be dry, or greased? It is now wet from WD40. Thanks. Arek

[grossohc]

Give everything a good clean and then add a liberal dose of grease to the cush drive, If you do a search on "cush drive" you should find a thread started by Greg field, he threw half the rubbers away ( so did i ) it makes some difference.

Gary

[Guest ratchethack]

Arek, I found that my old standby NAVAL JELLY (a Loctite DURO product based on phosphoric acid) works perfectly for chemically cleaning out all the rust in the forged steel cush drive housing. A couple of applications will have things looking bright again. If you first get all the grease off the drive splines with solvent (acetone or lacquer thinner works very well) before applying it to wheel hub splines and female splines in the "socket" with a plumber's flux brush, this will ensure the rust is 100% chemically neutralized before application of new grease (go light with the grease here). You will find that the "gasket" ring will fling grease off onto the wheel. Again, a VERY LIGHT application is more than enough. I've installed mine dry the last few times.

 

NOTE: As Grossohc mentioned above, this has been covered extensively (see excellent illustrated procedure by Greg Field).

 

Here's the link: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry125587

 

WARNING: Despite the great profusion of nonsensical posts in that thread (for some 19 pages!) of wildly spectacular excursions into raw speculation to the contrary, for smoother drive train action than the relatively stiff OE setup, there is no better alternative than drilling the rubber blocks and/or removing half, exactly as Greg has illustrated so well, and as practiced and well-proven for half a century by perhaps thousands of Guzzisti (myself included), -- and as recommended by all the old Pro's I know of. Also, please don't be misled and/or confused in that thread by the no less astounding menagerie of posts speculating on the function of the ring "gasket" that you mentioned -- it quite obviously IS NOT intended as a primitive friction-damping device for the operation of the cush drive or rear suspension, and was never conceived or intended as such. It functions simply to keep the worst road grunge out of the cush drive.

[gstallons]

You do enjoy typing! If you get on that bike like you do this keyboard you sure put it to the test!

[arek]

Arek, I found that my old standby NAVAL JELLY (a Loctite DURO product based on phosphoric acid) works perfectly for chemically cleaning out all the rust in the forged steel cush drive housing. A couple of applications will have things looking bright again. If you first get all the grease off the drive splines with solvent (acetone or lacquer thinner works very well) before applying it to wheel hub splines and female splines in the "socket" with a plumber's flux brush, this will ensure the rust is 100% chemically neutralized before application of new grease (go light with the grease here). You will find that the "gasket" ring will fling grease off onto the wheel. Again, a VERY LIGHT application is more than enough. I've installed mine dry the last few times.

 

NOTE: As Grossohc mentioned above, this has been covered extensively (see excellent illustrated procedure by Greg Field).

 

Here's the link: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry125587

 

WARNING: Despite the great profusion of nonsensical posts in that thread (for some 19 pages!) of wildly spectacular excursions into raw speculation to the contrary, for smoother drive train action than the relatively stiff OE setup, there is no better alternative than drilling the rubber blocks and/or removing half, exactly as Greg has illustrated so well, and as practiced and well-proven for half a century by perhaps thousands of Guzzisti (myself included), -- and as recommended by all the old Pro's I know of. Also, please don't be misled and/or confused in that thread by the no less astounding menagerie of posts speculating on the function of the ring "gasket" that you mentioned -- it quite obviously IS NOT intended as a primitive friction-damping device for the rear suspension, and was never conceived or intended as such. It functions simply to keep the worst road grunge out of the cush drive.

 

 

Thanks for the cleaning tips. That is what I wanted to know. I did take half of the rubber blocks out and drilled the rest. I am anxious to feel the results. Thanks again. Arek