crank shaft oil seal leaking

[Greg Field]

Thanks Phil

 

Can someone help me and tell me the part number for this input shaft seal. I looked at the part list and is a little confused because there is a seal also on the gear selector mechanism. Is this the seal you guys are talking about. If it is it looks extremely small.

 

Please help and thanks in advance.....

 

strokers

 

Before you do anything, determine what type of oil is fouling your clutch. Wipe onto something clean one of the drips from the weephole on the underside of the bell housing. Sniff it. Does it smell like transmission oil or like engine oil?

 

If it smells like transmission oil, the most likely culprit is part number GU14085900, the clutch pushrod seal. If you use the stock pieces, you will need two of them. A better seal, IMO, is the stack of o-rings the shop I work at assembles. The pushrod seal can be changed without removing the engine or transmission from the bike. Undo the swinarm spindles and roll back the swingarm and wheel for access. Then, you can flush the plates with mineral spirits by blocking the weephole below with a whittled stick or duct tape, pouring the spirits through the timing hole, starting the bike, and revving it gently while you feather in and out the clutch lever. Then drain and repeat at least once.

 

If it's engine oil, check the big breather hose for cracks or a loose clamp. If that's all good, you're going to have to pull the engine. Change everything while you are in there. First, the gasket for the breather, GU12007600. Use sealant along with the gasket. Since the main seal has been tried before and didn't fix it, either the seal wasn't replaced properly. I'd recommend pulling the rear main bearing so you can totally properly install the seal (GU90405367, get hte real thing, which is viton) and replace the gasket (GU12001800) underneath. To do it right, you will need the puller and then the two-piece tool to seat and install the rear main seal. I can lend you mine. Use sealant on the gasket. Also, use solvent to clean the threads of the two lower mounting holes that were drilled through into the crankcase. You will need to clean the bolts, too, and then use thread sealer on those two only. Finally, clean the gap around the welch plug up by where the breather attaches. Blow it out with air, and then goop sealnt into the gap. I use JB Weld for that. Also, change out the trans input seal (GU90403548). Get the real Guzzi seal, which is a waveform type.

[gstallons]

If you want to do this ONE time do this: go to any automotive garage or car dealer and purchase a dye to install in ONE of the places you are checking for leaks. If you suspect the gearbox install 1/4 of the bottle in the trans. Ride the bike a few miles until you are satisfied it has leaked enough oil. You will need to use a special light and glasses (you have sucked up to the owner of or he will do for you) to look for the leak.

I have this equipment and I can assure you "IT WORKS". Do not wast your time and $$$$$ guessing what it is, know before you do any more work.

HTH, gene

[motoguzznix]

Thanks Greg

 

I will look into all possibilities when I remove the gear box but as I said it leaked 3 times because they did not use an original seal. The clutch is also slipping and I felt the clutch springs are weak as compared to my sports 1100i. I want to change them but some guzzi delalers said these are rarely change. What are your thoughts on this.

 

stroker

If you disassemble the bike, check if the clutch gear has a tight fix at the gearbox input shaft. If loose, gear oil can intrude into the clutch causing her to slip. If there is only the engine or gearbox seal seeping, the clutch rarely begins to slip.

[moscowphil]

Motoguzznix is right. I had exactly that problem on my T3 (this was after I'd already replaced the gearbox input shaft oil seal). Oil managed to creep along the splines. and ruined my clutch plates (again). When I put it all back together again second time round I put some sealant on the splines to stop this happening, which seemed to do the trick. But I think the first thing to do is to follow Greg's advice and find out what sort of oil it is. Engine oil (especially old engine oil) and gearbox oil do smell quite different, so your nose should be enough to tell which it is, without having to resort to dyes. As to whether the springs are strong enough - I would think if they are standard springs they should be OK. The clutch slip is most likely due to oil on the plates.

[2or4strokes]

Before you do anything, determine what type of oil is fouling your clutch. Wipe onto something clean one of the drips from the weephole on the underside of the bell housing. Sniff it. Does it smell like transmission oil or like engine oil?

 

If it smells like transmission oil, the most likely culprit is part number GU14085900, the clutch pushrod seal. If you use the stock pieces, you will need two of them. A better seal, IMO, is the stack of o-rings the shop I work at assembles. The pushrod seal can be changed without removing the engine or transmission from the bike. Undo the swinarm spindles and roll back the swingarm and wheel for access. Then, you can flush the plates with mineral spirits by blocking the weephole below with a whittled stick or duct tape, pouring the spirits through the timing hole, starting the bike, and revving it gently while you feather in and out the clutch lever. Then drain and repeat at least once.

 

If it's engine oil, check the big breather hose for cracks or a loose clamp. If that's all good, you're going to have to pull the engine. Change everything while you are in there. First, the gasket for the breather, GU12007600. Use sealant along with the gasket. Since the main seal has been tried before and didn't fix it, either the seal wasn't replaced properly. I'd recommend pulling the rear main bearing so you can totally properly install the seal (GU90405367, get hte real thing, which is viton) and replace the gasket (GU12001800) underneath. To do it right, you will need the puller and then the two-piece tool to seat and install the rear main seal. I can lend you mine. Use sealant on the gasket. Also, use solvent to clean the threads of the two lower mounting holes that were drilled through into the crankcase. You will need to clean the bolts, too, and then use thread sealer on those two only. Finally, clean the gap around the welch plug up by where the breather attaches. Blow it out with air, and then goop sealnt into the gap. I use JB Weld for that. Also, change out the trans input seal (GU90403548). Get the real Guzzi seal, which is a waveform type.

Hi Greg

 

Thanks for your help and part numbers to buy. Will do as you advise and buy all the necessary parts. Are you the same Greg Field who writes some guzzi books especially the one with some words from Dr. John Wittner?

 

Strokers

[2or4strokes]

If you want to do this ONE time do this: go to any automotive garage or car dealer and purchase a dye to install in ONE of the places you are checking for leaks. If you suspect the gearbox install 1/4 of the bottle in the trans. Ride the bike a few miles until you are satisfied it has leaked enough oil. You will need to use a special light and glasses (you have sucked up to the owner of or he will do for you) to look for the leak.

I have this equipment and I can assure you "IT WORKS". Do not wast your time and $$$$$ guessing what it is, know before you do any more work.

HTH, gene

 

Hey Gstallons

 

What do you called this dye?Would like to try it ?

 

Strokers

[Skeeve]

Are you the same Greg Field who writes some guzzi books especially the one with some words from Dr. John Wittner?

 

Strokers

 

Yep, he's that Greg Field; we're lucky to have him here!

[Dimitris]

Yep, he's that Greg Field; we're lucky to have him here!

And the "BIG TWINS" book is very good, I am reading it these days for a second time.

[gstallons]

Hey Gstallons

 

What do you called this dye?Would like to try it ?

 

Strokers

I'm not sure what types of auto shops or auto dealers there are where you live. I would suggest a car dealership. Go to the parts dept.and ask for a leak detector dye for engine oil or manual trans.fluid. See if you can work out something with the service mgr. or ome of the mechanics to use (borrow)the UV light and glasses to find the source of the leak.

[Greg Field]

Thanks for the compliments, all.