Query - considering going closed loop

[Mad Farquhar]

Have been investigating going closed loop on myEcu on a Sport 1100 inj. Looking at the bumpf it seems the innovate package is the accepted way although there are one or two issues I gather. A question I have is whether the Bosch sensor they used can be wired to the ecu directly (on its own) and what the method of power delivery to the heater lines are? I understand they can be driven from downstream of the coil/pump relay but do they self regulate -are they on all the time - do they need to be etc etc? Still considering options - any f/back welcome.

 

cheers from bonny Scotland

[gstallons]

The first question I don't fully understand.

The oxygen heater circuit power should be wired through a seperate relay. Power should be applied to the relay with key on 12v. The oxygen sensor heater causes the sensor to start working faster than a sensor without a heater. Also the oxygen sensor heater remains on at all times.

[Mad Farquhar]

>The first question I don't fully understand.

 

Sorry the question is - can the Bosch sensor be used without the innovate stuff ie hard wired to the ecu? Thanks you have sorted out my last question - keep heater wiring separate and via an additional relay. I just realised that I'm not in the right part of the forum - should be myecu area. Apols for balls.

[gstallons]

Yuo do understand you will need an ECU and wirnig that is closed loop. This will probably do away with the need to keep the O2 heater seperate. You were aware of this?

[raz]

No, the MyECU can not drive the Bosch sensor on its own. A naked Bosch sensor is not that easy to interface.

 

Also, the LC-1 actually makes the Bosch better than its original specs because (if I recall correctly) LC-1 replaces the static factory calibrations with its own, which you can calibrate anytime in free air.

 

I have varied between connecting the heater power to the power relay (like the fuel pump) versus just a key-on relay. I think the latter is better for several reasons, one being the heater power is also LC-1 power, and you need it powered for programming or calibrating it. Currently I use the original "head light relay" (which is a misleading name), but that would not be advisable unless you put separate relays for the head light, which I had already done.