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Posted

Need some advice here. I am instaling a headlight relay kit from Eastern Beaver, funky name, nice product. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Products/H4_...stallation.html The instructions say to hook the pos. and neg. leads to the battery posts or, the pos. to the alternators main output terminal and the neg to an alternate ground. This is recomended on bikes that have a main fuse to the battery from the alternator. my questions are, does this apply to the V11 and if I go directly to the alternator do I just splice into either of the two yellow alternator wires? I don't remember if I remove the Alt. cover if there is a terminal to bolt to. Which way do I go. The battery connect would be eaiser but I want what works best. Also the inline mini fuse is 15amp would the unregulated alternator ever put out enough to blow this fuse? Please advise Cheer!!Alan :unsure:

Posted

Not the yellow ones, they are unregulated AC. Connect it to the regulators main output terminal instead.

Posted
Not the yellow ones, they are unregulated AC. Connect it to the regulators main output terminal instead.

I was wondering if it was a mistake in the instructions It does say to connect to the alternators main output . As you said this is unregulated and that is why I was concerned about the 15amp fuse. The connection to the regulator makes more sense, Thanx!

Posted
Need some advice here. I am instaling a headlight relay kit from Eastern Beaver, funky name, nice product.

Hi Alan - I have the same kit on order from Eastern Beaver, it should arrive soon. Let us know what you think of the results when you're done, regards.

Posted

On most alternators, the regulator is built in. On Guzzis the alternator and regulator/diode board are separate.

Do NOT hook it up to the yellow alternator output wires. Hook it up through a fuse to the battery.

In fact, the battery is so crowded that I put a little outboard power strip on my V11 to make things like this easier to do.

Posted
On most alternators, the regulator is built in. On Guzzis the alternator and regulator/diode board are separate.

Do NOT hook it up to the yellow alternator output wires. Hook it up through a fuse to the battery.

In fact, the battery is so crowded that I put a little outboard power strip on my V11 to make things like this easier to do.

You are right, the battery posts got alot o stuff on em. Could you please elaborate a bit on the outboard power strip. How do I make one or are they readily available?
Posted

I've had the Eastern Beaver relay and harness on my Ballabio with great results for six months or so. I'm guessing the light output is 25% or better than stock. Mine is direct to a subterminal off the battery. However, Motorcycle Consumer News mentions that the bulbs, as a result of higher temperatures, may lose a signifigant part of their life cycle. I'm willing to pay the price for the very good output from a single bulb setup.

 

John

Posted

I finished it today. I kept the leads as they came. Went directly to the battery, will see how it works. It was really tight in the headlight tub. I am sure the wires comming out of the socket are pushed against the back of the tub I hope it does'nt cause a problem down the road.

Posted
You are right, the battery posts got alot o stuff on em. Could you please elaborate a bit on the outboard power strip. How do I make one or are they readily available?

 

I doubt they are readily available, but you can make one for about $3. Here's a really poor picture of how I attached mine:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jrtelford/Guzz...832067311187202

 

I just ran a fused line from the battery to a radioshack or equivalent power strip. I mounted it (ziptie) underneath the rail- the rail itself is insulated by all that electrical tape. Of course, the strip is upside down, so I can't add/remove any of the leads without removing the entire cowl.

Overall, a fairly poor design on my part, but I haven't had a lot of time to think about a clever mounting area. Any ideas? I can't put it on top of the rail because the seat rests on the rail.

My second choice was just in front of the battery- there's a small, but useable space, but I would have had to build a bracket and it's also a lot more prone to water thrown up from rain or whatnot.

So- it's a tradeoff.

 

Edit: Oh- don't forget to run a spare ground from the headlight (or anywhere on the front forks) to the engine case. The ground scheme for the headlight is....well, it's dumb. It runs through the (never filled with) greased bearings in the fork head. So, be kind to the headlight and run another ground. Doesn't hurt to run a spare ground from the battery to the frame also.

Posted
Don't forget to take the cell phone and fire extinguisher !
Ya think? The socket is ceramic and all the wires are insulated . no metal touching pan. :o
Posted
I just ran a fused line from the battery to a radioshack or equivalent power strip. I mounted it (ziptie) underneath the rail- the rail itself is insulated by all that electrical tape. Of course, the strip is upside down, so I can't add/remove any of the leads without removing the entire cowl.

Overall, a fairly poor design on my part, but I haven't had a lot of time to think about a clever mounting area. Any ideas? I can't put it on top of the rail because the seat rests on the rail.

My second choice was just in front of the battery- there's a small, but useable space, but I would have had to build a bracket and it's also a lot more prone to water thrown up from rain or whatnot.

So- it's a tradeoff.

 

Here's an image of some of the re-arranging of the Sport's electrics (I know there's a better picture of the power distribution in some old threads):

IMG_3348.jpg

EDIT: The negative distribution block is at the top of the photo. The positive is under the "POS +" cover. (I'm still looking for a link to the older thread).

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