Special tools

[belfastguzzi]

Special service tools for the new models

 

 

A pain of maintenance can be the need for special service tools.

Official ones can be hugely expensive and may only be needed once.

Where can we get cheaper alternatives,

or how have tools been home designed and made?

 

Post your findings and inventions here.

 

To make this thread work better, I'm going to group posts together by subject, as best I can. So that's why some stuff is copied and appears twice.

If one of your posts is copied whole and put together with another entry, you could delete your original post to keep this thread as compact as possible.

[dlaing]

Diagnostics

http://www.technoresearch.com/Products/VDS...ke_Features.htm

Cheaper than Axeone.

Don't know if it works on Griso, Breva, Norge, etc.

 

EDIT BFG: yes there are versions for the new engines

[belfastguzzi]

Parts Files, Service Tool Documents

 

Link to posts:

 

GRISO 1100 service tools

 

 

* Can anyone post the illustrations from other models' Parts files, showing the special tools needed to work on the different motors?

[dlaing]

Homemade Water Manometer

 

First post ='dlaing' post='156907' date='Mar 15 2009

 

http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/manometer.html

I tried making one, but was unsuccessful because the water headed towards the engine. I think the inner diameter of the tubing I used was too small.

 

Second post: gstallons

 

You need to install 0.030" to 0.060" restrictors in (both sides) the hose to slow the fluid movement speed. The way this tool is designed it will only balance the cylinders.

[belfastguzzi]

GRISO 1100 Tools

 

[belfastguzzi]

8V Spark Plug Caps

 

Spark plug cap/boot removal

requires a special tool?

Welcome to the modern world.

Plug boot and tube

 

Plug boot fitment, or really I should say removal, in the 8V motors is... a trifle inconvenient.

 

Even with rocker cover removed over the plug-lead, the boot still can't be easily extracted from the tube.

They are very hard to remove without damage and my interpretation of a recent MG service document is that the factory expect them to be a use-once item that is replaced with a new item after removal.

 

Whether they are reused or are chucked and replaced, first you have to remove them. Guzzi supplies a special tool for the purpose. Of course they don't supply it in the bike's tool kit. Now, even the simplest job is supposed to be done at the dealers? First you'll have to find a dealer / service agent. Good luck.

 

Thanks to Pete & Paul for this link to an alternative tool from a USA store. I guess they must be commonly available. Can anyone post European, UK and other local sources if they find them?

Looks like such a tool could be easily made too. I'll have a go at some stage.

 

Can anyone post a photo of the MG tool or illustration of it from the 8V Parts doc?

 

USA supplier: http://www.setools.com/spbplier.shtml

 

 

Plug caps for 8V motor

 

These are known to be a right bastard to get off without damaging the caps. Mario in Perth has also had experience of them simply failing in service as the spark arced through the insulation.

 

It seems that you can snip the caps off and then use NGK plug caps with the part # of SB05E (Maybe with the suffix of 89054, I scribbled that on a bit of paper and don't know if it is relevant but better you have it. I've forgotten the details.) These apparently have an angled top but WILL fit under the plug lead covers and cost a LOT less than a new set of leads, although everyone will be getting a set of *New* leads with the cams and tappets apparently.

 

Pete

[belfastguzzi]

CARC boot clamp replacement.

 

 

Anyone who has to take a CARC apart for any reason will find that the clips that hold the boot to the torque arm are basically a 'One use' type. If you're careful you can re-use them but the reults can be less than stellar as far as sealing is concerned.

 

The clamps are not sold separately. You buy them with a new boot and the price is absurd, something like $350US I believe.

 

Most times unless you're a retard the boot will come off un-injured, all you require is the clamps.

 

I've tried to find *thin* as in 7.5mm wide hose clamps of a suitable size but with no success, at least locally. But today my tiny, peanut brain must of chimed in on an extra cylinder as it suddenly occurred to me that Universal Joint boot clamps on most small Japanese shitbox cars are about that size.

 

A quick trip into 'Wottalottacrap Auto' got me a couple of clips for the princely sum of $1.50 AU.

 

They work perfectly.

 

Pete

[pete roper]

DAve, one of those sets of pliers is on its way to you right now.

 

Pete

[Kiwi_Roy]

Don't use water for goodness sake, use engine oil. It's more viscous (better damping) and won't harm your donkey if it sucks it in.

You won't need restrictors with oil it. The easiest way to get the oil in is dip one end in the oil container and suck on other.

For connecting to the throttle bodies get a couple of straight 6 mm grease nipples and remove the spring & ball by grinding the threaded end. You might try drilling with a 1/4" drill or filing but mine were really hard.

The plastic tube will become soft and drop off when the engine heats up so wire it in place or use a short length of rubber hose.

If you can get it balanced within 6" or so that's great, the manometer is much more sensitive (and accurate) than usng two gages.