Steve G. Posted May 1, 2010 Posted May 1, 2010 I just had the same problem - went straight to the electric petcock and voila - both wires fell off in my hands! It's quite a simple job to solder them back on - the chrome cap on the bottom of the valve slides off, leaving plenty of access to the solder connections to the coil. Slid the cap back on, applied a little epoxy into the well around the wires and stuck the tank back on. Fired right up and runs great. This forum just saved me hours of head-scratching - thanks for the help. My next step is to hit the donate button..... Well done!! Steve
Skeeve Posted May 1, 2010 Posted May 1, 2010 I just had the same problem - went straight to the electric petcock and voila - both wires fell off in my hands! It's quite a simple job to solder them back on - the chrome cap on the bottom of the valve slides off, leaving plenty of access to the solder connections to the coil. Slid the cap back on, applied a little epoxy into the well around the wires and stuck the tank back on. Fired right up and runs great. This forum just saved me hours of head-scratching - thanks for the help. My next step is to hit the donate button..... I'm curious: Why is there an electric petcock anyway if the engine won't run w/o the fuel pump working? Glad to hear how easy the fix was for you, but I'm left wondering if the permanent fix isn't to just permanently jamb the darn thing open & stop having to fiddle with it ever after?
justmike Posted May 1, 2010 Posted May 1, 2010 I'm curious: Why is there an electric petcock anyway if the engine won't run w/o the fuel pump working? Glad to hear how easy the fix was for you, but I'm left wondering if the permanent fix isn't to just permanently jamb the darn thing open & stop having to fiddle with it ever after? You're probably right - but I've got this control issue where things just gotta do what they're told to do
Chuck Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 I just had the same problem - went straight to the electric petcock and voila - both wires fell off in my hands! It's quite a simple job to solder them back on - the chrome cap on the bottom of the valve slides off, leaving plenty of access to the solder connections to the coil. Slid the cap back on, applied a little epoxy into the well around the wires and stuck the tank back on. Fired right up and runs great. This forum just saved me hours of head-scratching - thanks for the help. My next step is to hit the donate button..... I'm curious: Why is there an electric petcock anyway if the engine won't run w/o the fuel pump working? Glad to hear how easy the fix was for you, but I'm left wondering if the permanent fix isn't to just permanently jamb the darn thing open & stop having to fiddle with it ever after? There is an electric petcock because Guzzi has a barrel full of them to use up, as far as I know. It came out on the Convert, and is a good idea for carbed bikes. No use whatsoever on a fuel injection bike. You gotta love em..
Buzzard Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 I had the dreaded vapor lock with my 2002 LeMans. To cure it, I removed the air box, went with velocity stacks/K&N filters, mounted a new, smaller fuel pump not beneath the tank, with a new smaller fuel filter. The air box has to go, to allow room for relocation. I just couldn't see leaving the fuel lines/filter over the cylinders to bake. Never a problem since.
gstallons Posted April 11, 2011 Posted April 11, 2011 The petcock (electric or manual) is there only to aid in fuel tank r&r so fuel will not go everywhere ......
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