charging indicator light acts strange

[huub]

Again some electrical problems with my v11 sport from 2000. And a very strange one!

 

When I switch on the ignition of the bike, the charging indicator light doesn't show up. Then, when I put on the lights or use the brake, the indicaor shows up after a little while. After I have starten the bike, the indicator does go out again, as it should be. And the machine is charging.

 

I have already checked all the wirings, but couldn't find anything that looked suspicious to me. I already changed the battery and put another voltage regulator on, but that didn't help either. Changed some relays, also didn't work. I made an alternative connecition with another bulb (between the blue wire of the regulator and ground), but the same thing happens.

 

Somebody any ideas about this strange behavior of my bike???

[gstallons]

What is a "loading" indicator ?

[huub]

What is a "loading" indicator ?

 

Sorry for my bad translation. I mean the sign on the dashbord, with the picture of the battery on it.

[gstallons]

Check the charging output with a DVOM for at least 13v at 1500 rpm. If it's ok, ride it. my charging indicator light does everything wrong.

[Skeeve]

Another symptom of the poor grounding of the instrument cluster?

[huub]

Check the charging output with a DVOM for at least 13v at 1500 rpm. If it's ok, ride it. my charging indicator light does everything wrong.

 

I've done that for some time, but now I really want to solve it. There should be some reason for it????

[huub]

Another symptom of the poor grounding of the instrument cluster?

 

I tried that already, but that didn't work out. Besides, the charge indicator gets his ground from the voltage regulator (the blue wire). Or am I wrong??

[gstallons]

I assume this has the same circuitry as a Jackal. If so the bulbs share a common ground, with the voltage regulator blue/white wire turning the bulb on/off.

I'm too lazy to get up and look.

[huub]

I assume this has the same circuitry as a Jackal. If so the bulbs share a common ground, with the voltage regulator blue/white wire turning the bulb on/off.

I'm too lazy to get up and look.

 

The charging bulb gets his ground from the regulator, so this not the same ground as the other dashboard bulbs.

[huub]

Bought on ebay another wiring harness, hope this will solve all the vague electrical problems I had the last couple of months... I shall report about it!

[Murray]

The light gets it earth from the reg then logically the earth for the reg is a bit average. The regulators use the case and it mounting bolts for its earth ensure there is metal to metal contact and things are free of corrosion also check your main battery earths again clean and tight a good metal to metal contact. The other thing you can do is get the mutimeter on volts withnthe ectrical system on (engine doesn't have to be running) and see if there is a voltage drop between the two earths. ie they minght not be grounded to the same ground and over the years the bolts between the frames have corroded and don't quiet conduct as they once did. If there is a difference between them try running a earth lead between the reg case and the negative terminal of the battery.

[Bbennett]

I added a real-time charging status indicator to my 2001 V11 just to see when the thing is charging (it is one LED and shows three different states in 3 different colors). Let me tell you it is an eye opener. My V11 (at least) is constantly running on the ragged edge of maintaining a charge. I really do not get a solid "green" (charging well) unless I am over 4K RPM's. Sometimes when I run around town on the bike, I never get it up to that RPM and ride is a net negative as far as charging. Turn on an accessory (heated vest is my only one) and the loading impact is *immediate* and will cause you to get an on/off switch for the accessory right away. Let me put is this way: the turn indicators affect my charging status below 4K RPM. My battery is an Oddyssey etc.

 

Bob

[huub]

The light gets it earth from the reg then logically the earth for the reg is a bit average. The regulators use the case and it mounting bolts for its earth ensure there is metal to metal contact and things are free of corrosion also check your main battery earths again clean and tight a good metal to metal contact. The other thing you can do is get the mutimeter on volts withnthe ectrical system on (engine doesn't have to be running) and see if there is a voltage drop between the two earths. ie they minght not be grounded to the same ground and over the years the bolts between the frames have corroded and don't quiet conduct as they once did. If there is a difference between them try running a earth lead between the reg case and the negative terminal of the battery.

 

Thx for the reaction. I have a new Silent Hektik voltage regler, that has a wire for grounding. So it's not the housing of the regulator that gives ground as with the original from ducati. Also when I put this wire directly to the minus pole of the battery, there's no charging indicator light...

 

Only when I put the lights on or something, so that the voltage of the battery is lowering, the charging light suddently appears (when the bike is not running).

[huub]

I added a real-time charging status indicator to my 2001 V11 just to see when the thing is charging (it is one LED and shows three different states in 3 different colors). Let me tell you it is an eye opener. My V11 (at least) is constantly running on the ragged edge of maintaining a charge. I really do not get a solid "green" (charging well) unless I am over 4K RPM's. Sometimes when I run around town on the bike, I never get it up to that RPM and ride is a net negative as far as charging. Turn on an accessory (heated vest is my only one) and the loading impact is *immediate* and will cause you to get an on/off switch for the accessory right away. Let me put is this way: the turn indicators affect my charging status below 4K RPM. My battery is an Oddyssey etc.

 

Bob

 

 

Mmm, sounds weird. That thing should be charging about 2k RPM's? But you have learned to live with it?

 

Where did you get that real-tme indicator thing?

[Murray]

Thx for the reaction. I have a new Silent Hektik voltage regler, that has a wire for grounding. So it's not the housing of the regulator that gives ground as with the original from ducati. Also when I put this wire directly to the minus pole of the battery, there's no charging indicator light...

 

Only when I put the lights on or something, so that the voltage of the battery is lowering, the charging light suddently appears (when the bike is not running).

 

 

Is this the only time the charge light comes on? Sounds like its something to do with the way the reg triggers the light. Please not this is a super rough explination. But to trigger a charge warning light the obious electrical componet to use is a diode this requires a higher voltage at one end for it to switch on providing a earth to the light. The actual voltage it triggers at can be adjusted buy the use of resistor, Your problem might be simply you battery is in very good condition (and possibly you leave it on trickle charge a lot of the time) So with the minor load the "surface voltage" is high enough for the diode not to trigger. When you load the system with something like a headlight without the motor charging it drags the voltage to below the trigger and the light illuminates. If this is you only problem i really wouldn't worry about it ihave been running an 1100 sport with a Accel regulator for a harley davision it has no facility for a charge light I haven't missed it ethier.

 

Bbennt I'd be a bit careful about your real time charging system as if its designed for cars which generally charge at idle or modern bikes ie not the V11, it will give you all sorts of odd readings unless you know the three trigger points of the LED's its possibly not particularly useful. We went through similar drama's at work with a dual battery switch on the work landcruisers, all good when they rolled out of the workshop but after 6-12 months when all the earths were at slightly different readings and the alt was on its way out (can't wait to get some indestructable Toyota's we only get the ones that fall apart and break down must be a option) the secound batt wasn't getting charged found out latter the switch only triggered at something 13.8volts which the toyo's would only produce if everything was working at its peak which was not very often.