Metzeler Roadtec Z6 Interact Tire Review

[Guest ratchethack]

i remember greg too once mentioned the lack of tread in the center of z as a deal breaker. so how do you know for sure when the tire is worn?

I inspected my first Z6 rear carefully after it came off. The center part without grooves is only 25 mm wide. Especially after having access to both sides of the tire at 7500 miles, you can judge quite accurately enough by looking at the depth of tread left in the tread grooves closest to the center looking at it from the outside alone. I went 8K miles next time without any concern wotsoever over getting too thin. Though not directly measurable in the center, as possible with any tire with a center groove, it's been pretty obvious how much tread is left on subsequent tires.

 

I have no more concern about gauging the rear than I do the front, with it's zig-zag center groove. IMHO, these tires are SO GOOD that I don't have any tendency to push them beyond their already relatively long useful life. The way I wear them, it makes no sense when you can start fresh again at 8K miles on a rear, and 10K miles on a front without compromising performance.

 

-- But o' course, that's just me, and no one should EVER ride on any tire they don't have 100% confidence in.

[Greg Field]

IME, they can look normal, and then you take a 300-mile ride and cords are showing when you get back. THe D.Stradas are the same tire but with the tread extending further toward centerline and cost 15-20 percent less. It's an easy choice for me. Add a Corsa III or Rosso front, and it's a winning combo for 8,000 miles or so.

[grossohc]

Once i was out for a run and my mate looked at the z6 rear tyre when we stopped as he thought there was a nail in it, checked tyre nothing there when i got home 50 miles later there was cord showing 3/4 round the tyre, gave me quite a scare but didnt stop me fitting a new z6 . Now i make a note of the mileage when i replace tyres.

[Guest ratchethack]

FWIW, just found the '06 MOTORRAD tread wear rating part of the comparo posted previously in many other threads.

 

Consider the only source I found with my latest search -- 4th post down here: http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/fz6/35557...tml#post2932903, but this lines up with my memory of wot I'd found when both Motorrad and Moto Revue originally published their very similar rating comparo's:

 

6 tires were tested on tread wear (rear tire)

1)Metzeler Z6 8400 miles, for a tire that costs about the same as:

2)Pirelli Diablo 4400 miles

3)Metzeler M3 4100 miles

4)Michelin Pilot Power 2CT 3500 miles

5)Dunlop Qualifier 3100 miles

4)Conti Sport Attack 2500 miles (testbikes Buell XB12S)

[dlaing]

IME, they can look normal, and then you take a 300-mile ride and cords are showing when you get back. THe D.Stradas are the same tire but with the tread extending further toward centerline and cost 15-20 percent less. It's an easy choice for me. Add a Corsa III or Rosso front, and it's a winning combo for 8,000 miles or so.

I went to the local Cycle Gear yesterday, hoping to order an Interact, but was quoted $213 US.

So I bought the Diablo Strada for $162 instead

But I am sure there will be sale prices in the future!

For example Buy Rear get front FREE sales are pretty common.

I could have gotten a pair of Diablos for $189, but IMHO the Diablos aren't worth as much as the Diablo Stradas. IME the Stradas last 20% longer and seem to have better wet grip, but not quite as good dry grip)

 

I think I'll drill some holes in the center tread as indicators. I have gotten surprised by the cord after a $300 plus mile ride....

[tmcafe]

FWIW, just found the '06 MOTORRAD tread wear rating part of the comparo posted previously in many other threads.

 

Consider the only source I found with my latest search -- 4th post down here: http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/fz6/35557...tml#post2932903, but this lines up with my memory of wot I'd found when both Motorrad and Moto Revue originally published their very similar rating comparo's:

 

6 tires were tested on tread wear (rear tire)

1)Metzeler Z6 8400 miles, for a tire that costs about the same as:

2)Pirelli Diablo 4400 miles

3)Metzeler M3 4100 miles

4)Michelin Pilot Power 2CT 3500 miles

5)Dunlop Qualifier 3100 miles

4)Conti Sport Attack 2500 miles (testbikes Buell XB12S)

Interesting. Too bad no such long term shootouts are done by US rags.

I m assuming the Diablo STRADA would have done about on a par with the winner. Also absent is the Pilot Road. The z6 was going to win this comparo easily as a sport touring tire vs. more sport oriented ones.

[Dan M]

6 tires were tested on tread wear (rear tire)

1)Metzeler Z6 8400 miles, for a tire that costs about the same as:

2)Pirelli Diablo 4400 miles

 

It would be more of a fair comparison if they used the "Diablo Strada" as that is Pirelli's S/T tire and will yield more mileage than the regular Diablo. I put about 5000 miles on the Stradas and they still looked terrific.

My RT will be needing tires before the season is over and I'm likely going back to the Z6 on that bike. I switched to Conti Road Attacks for the last set. Good tire wet & dry but does not seem to have the same grip as the Metz.

[Guest ratchethack]

I think I'll drill some holes in the center tread as indicators.

 

Drilling holes in new tires as wear indicators can tell you EXACTLY when it's time for a new one, alright.

 

In many cases, replacement time will no doubt coincide very closely with the time you drill the holes.

[dlaing]

Drilling holes in new tires as wear indicators can tell you EXACTLY when it's time for a new one, alright.

 

In many cases, replacement time will no doubt coincide very closely with the time you drill the holes.

But of course you should use a shortened drill bit so it won't go any deeper than the tread depth...

[Guest ratchethack]

But of course you should use a shortened drill bit so it won't go any deeper than the tread depth...

Hm. You'd no doubt need a certain um, perspective to appreciate the wisdom of shortening a drill bit to drill holes in new tires, alright. . .

I think I'll drill some holes in the center tread as indicators.

I'm sure everyone here will be more'n interested in your results.

[Skeeve]

Hm. You'd no doubt need a certain um, perspective to appreciate the wisdom of shortening a drill bit to drill holes in new tires, alright. . .

 

I'm sure everyone here will be more'n interested in your results.

 

Heh. Yeah!

 

Here's an idea [but I'm too lazy to do the math myself. Sue me:] Take a tread depth measurement of the z6 when new. Calculate the chord of the width where the measurements were taken. Compute the nominal depth of the tread at the center of tread given that chord, and what the center depth would be when down to carcass when the tread depth measurements are retaken at later intervals, ie: a tread depth of 1mm would have the center tread at zero, time to replace tire even tho' the belts aren't peeking thru yet.

 

[Note: most of my riding miles are commuter miles, so I just buy a new rear when I find it cheap and keep it sealed in a plastic garbage bag to limit out-gassing of the plasticizers in the rubber, & stash it in the garage. When I run the tire to the point where you can see that you've run out of tread rubber & are getting into the carcass rubber [different colors; pretty easy to spot if you look] then it's time to change out for the backup on hand. But that's on a commuter bike that only sees

[GuzziHutch]

I'm on the third set of Z6s for the V11 Lemans. Love 'em!

[Guest ratchethack]

[Note: most of my riding miles are commuter miles, so I just buy a new rear when I find it cheap and keep it sealed in a plastic garbage bag to limit out-gassing of the plasticizers in the rubber, & stash it in the garage. When I run the tire to the point where you can see that you've run out of tread rubber & are getting into the carcass rubber [different colors; pretty easy to spot if you look] then it's time to change out for the backup on hand. But that's on a commuter bike that only sees <50mi per ride, so not likely to burn thru to the belts before spotting the change...

Don't you HATE THAT when you go to put on a nice new tire and you can't smell it -- I mean really smell it?? Why, it's already out-gassed all it's most luscious, road-grippy chemical goodies?!?!

 

Interesting approach, Skeeve.

 

Only trouble with it is that with accelerated new model introduction schedules lately, during the time you've kept your nice "new" tire all hermetically sealed up in it's trash bag o' aromatic grippy out-gases, it may get superceded. Please don't ask how it is that I know how this works.

 

If you're like me, just knowing you're mounting up an "end of life" tire is sure to take some o' the edge off the thrill o' your first hard ride after the new (old) tire's been scrubbed-in.

 

Ever since my um, first such mistake^, to make sure I get the very latest & greatest upgraded model, oven-fresh from the factory (or as reasonably fresh as possible from the warehouse), I've taken to ordering them no earlier than a week in advance of need to replace.

 

You just can't beat that very first aromatic whiff o' rich, virgin carbon black, elastomers, and organo-silicates. . . 'specially when they're all ready to be mounted up & hit the road.

[mike wilson]

Don't you HATE THAT when you go to put on a nice new tire and you can't smell it -- I mean really smell it?? Why, it's already out-gassed all it's most luscious, road-grippy chemical goodies?!?!

 

Not logical. The plasticiser in it that is outgassing is there to aid production. Why else would you carefully heat cycle a new racing tyre to get better grip? Why would tyre fitters advise you to take it easy with a new road tyre until some miles have passed? These chemicals _reduce_ grip.

[Guest ratchethack]

Not logical. The plasticiser in it that is outgassing is there to aid production. Why else would you carefully heat cycle a new racing tyre to get better grip? Why would tyre fitters advise you to take it easy with a new road tyre until some miles have passed? These chemicals _reduce_ grip.

Sorry Mike, but not only are your questions ill-informed, but your statements are entirely false. Pre-heating race tires, either with a tire warmer or on the track, has nothing to do with outgassing. Racing tire compounds are formulated to achieve optimum grip for one heat cycle only, after which optimum grip is lost. Racing tires are shipped in partly cured (green) condition, cure fully with the first heat cycle, and are pre-heated for the start of a race because they're designed to provide optimum grip at operating temperatures. Plasticizers do not escape tires by out-gassing, and ARE NOT added to aid production. They are components of tire compound formulas (see below). Road tire compounds are formulated to achieve optimum grip for repeat heat cycles for the life of the tire. Regardless of wear, a tire will deteriorate and lose performance due to outgassing over time, to the point where after many years, in some cases they're not safe to ride on. Oils that come from many compound ingredients that appear on tires after they are cured in the mold are a by-product of manufacturing, have nothing to do with the outgassing process, and conveniently happen to function very well as mold release. Tire fitters advise taking it easy on new tires until these oils are worn off, which means wearing into the surface of the tire (see also below).

 

Plasticizers most certainly DO NOT reduce the grip of a properly scrubbed-in tire, as might be quite evident from this quote from a discussion of DOT racing tires at the following TIRE BASICS link:

 

http://www.carolinariders.com/Links/Choosi...20for%20you.htm

 

"The more plasticizer that is released, the stickier the tire!"

 

RE: "Mold Release" -

 

http://www.sportbikes.com/articlesc5bb.html?id=1244

 

Summary:

 

Q. Mold Release - Do any manufacturers of MC tires use this, and is this why a tire need to be 'scrubbed in?

 

A. There is NO manufacturer that uses mold release on the tread area of the tire. Approximately 70% of any tread compound is oil. During the curing process, oil rises thru the compound and forms a natural release agent against the metal mold. After curing several tires the molds "Seasons" from the oil and look like grannys "Cast Iron Skillet".

 

The surface of any tire has to be mechanically abraided to get to the rubber compound used for traction... removing the oil that has risen during the curing process. Anyone that has seen tires from the race track that are "BLUED" will understand that this is also the oil in the compound rising to the surface.