Sump bolt torque value?

[gargoyle]

I'm in the process of installing my Roper sloppage plate and just reallized that I don't know what to torque the bolts back in at. I've did several searches and came up with nothing. Anybody out there know?

[Guest ratchethack]

I don't know any Pro or any shade-tree DIY'er (such as myself) who would ever use a torque wrench on a M5 socket-head bolt, though I'm sure there's somebody somewhere who does and swears by it. The Guzzi manual specs generic M5 bolts at 6-7 Nm, or 5-6 lb/ft. You'd have to use a very expensive "aircraft grade" torque wrench to be anywhere near accurate down that low. As always, care is due when threading into aluminum, and best err on the side of caution.

 

May I suggest "snug", with a shot of Brakleen or your favorite residue-free solvent in each blind hole first, followed by a shot o' compressed air to clear and dry it, and a drop of Locktite 242 or your favorite threadlocker on each. This will be another complementary "insurance policy" against any backing out (you really really don't want that possibility anywhere INSIDE the crankcase) and would be very much in line with the philosophy of the installation of the plate, IMHO.

 

Congrat's on your Roper plate. It's been 2 1/2 yrs. since I put mine in, and it's worked 100% as advertised ever since.

[raz]

Ratch, I have a vague memory we've been through this exact confusion before: The bolts are M6 (while the socket key is 5 mm) and the recommended standard torque is thus 10 Nm (7-8 lbft). This is the same bolt size as the valve covers.

 

Other than that,

[Guest ratchethack]

EGADS, Raz. My apologies (again).

 

I shall horse-whip myself unmercifully. . .

 

Same principle applies WRT torque with both M5 and M6 though.

 

"Snug" seems to be the Industry Standard for both.

[gstallons]

For the ignorant ( I mean this in a positive manner) get you a junk m/cycle engine. Practicing loosening,removing, installing and tightening all bolts of all sizes. You will come to understand the meaning of proper torque or tightness of capscrews. If a fastener does not start EASILY you will want to remove it and see if you are cross threading it. This ability comes with repetition and appreciation. There are only 2 to 3 sizes of the majority of fasteners you will normally be disturbing so don't be scared. DO tighten every fastener you loosen. ALL fasteners are important.

When you get into something REALLY important use a torque wrench.

[Scotch]

I have a question.

 

I added the Roper plate to my Rosso Mandello over a year ago. I ended up with a leak. Not a real leak that is readily detectable, but a drip drip drip always when you arent looking leak. I suspect it is between the top oil sump and the enngine block around the plate itself, but that is mostly a guess. The oil seems to thinly spread out and drip down from the fins on the bottom of the motor. I have just pulled it all apart again and REALLY cleaned everything up. I actually washed the upper and lower sumps and I had several meals out of the lower one just because I could. Added all new gaskets and am ready to tighten up the screws.

 

I have a question that I would like opinions on.

 

Dave Richards in Guzziology (great book) says to anti-seize every aluminium thread to prevent corrosion. That makes a lot of sense. It is also how I put my roper plate in before.

Ratchet suggests Brakleen and threadlocker in every hole. That also makes a lot of sense.

 

I would be interested in hearing anyone's opinion about these two different ways of going about this before I close up my oilpan and "torque" the fasteners.

 

THANKS!!!!!

[fotoguzzi]

I'd use the anti sieze on external bolts but the ones inside the motor, lock tight.

[savagehenry]

I'm with fotoguzzi on this one. To find your leak, clean the motor real well and spray the area with Aquanet hairspray. Then fire it up and you will see right where the leak is starting. The hairspray will then easily wash off.

[Scotch]

I'm with fotoguzzi on this one. To find your leak, clean the motor real well and spray the area with Aquanet hairspray. Then fire it up and you will see right where the leak is starting. The hairspray will then easily wash off.

 

Thanks foto and savage.

Hopefully I wont have to use the hairspray - the sumps are off and new gaskets are about to be installed. Everything is clean as a whistle and I am shooting for no more leaks!

 

But I will remember that trick the next time something like this comes up.

[raz]

I mostly use blue loctite but my intention is as much anti-seize as thread lock. It doesn't "lock" them enough to ever be a trouble.

 

I actually washed the upper and lower sumps and I had several meals out of the lower one just because I could.

[Darius]

I have a question.

 

I added the Roper plate to my Rosso Mandello over a year ago. I ended up with a leak. Not a real leak that is readily detectable, but a drip drip drip always when you arent looking leak. I suspect it is between the top oil sump and the engine block around the plate itself, but that is mostly a guess. The oil seems to thinly spread out and drip down from the fins on the bottom of the motor. I have just pulled it all apart again and REALLY cleaned everything up. I actually washed the upper and lower sumps and I had several meals out of the lower one just because I could. Added all new gaskets and am ready to tighten up the screws.

 

This reply may be late but I am just now getting my 2003 LM back on the road after two years. In any case - I had a similar small leak - left rear corner of plate/sump seal. Took the plate off and checked on a polished granite counter top (closest thing to flat available. Found a slight bend (about 1/16") in the plate at the problem area which I fixed with a dead blow hammer. Have taken a couple long rides since and leakage seems to be cured. Not sure if this was a manufacturing defect or damaged in transit (my guess) but Pete Roper was very responsive and willing to exchange when I contacted him.

[Darius]

I have a question.

 

I added the Roper plate to my Rosso Mandello over a year ago. I ended up with a leak. Not a real leak that is readily detectable, but a drip drip drip always when you arent looking leak. I suspect it is between the top oil sump and the enngine block around the plate itself, but that is mostly a guess. The oil seems to thinly spread out and drip down from the fins on the bottom of the motor. I have just pulled it all apart again and REALLY cleaned everything up. I actually washed the upper and lower sumps and I had several meals out of the lower one just because I could. Added all new gaskets and am ready to tighten up the screws.

 

I have a question that I would like opinions on.

 

Dave Richards in Guzziology (great book) says to anti-seize every aluminium thread to prevent corrosion. That makes a lot of sense. It is also how I put my roper plate in before.

Ratchet suggests Brakleen and threadlocker in every hole. That also makes a lot of sense.

 

I would be interested in hearing anyone's opinion about these two different ways of going about this before I close up my oilpan and "torque" the fasteners.

 

THANKS!!!!!

 

This reply may be late but I am just now getting my 2003 LM back on the road after two years. In any case - I had a similar small leak - left rear corner of plate/sump seal. Took the plate off and checked on a polished granite counter top (closest thing to flat available. Found a slight bend (about 1/16") in the plate at the problem area which I fixed with a dead blow hammer. Have taken a couple long rides since and leakage seems to be cured. Not sure if this was a manufacturing defect or damaged in transit (my guess) but Pete Roper was very responsive and willing to exchange when I contacted him.

[Scotch]

I'll tell you what - this is real customer service.

I am still getting help after all this time. What a great place.

Looking back, I see I never updated this thread after I put my sump back together. I cleaned everything with brake-kleen, locktighted the inside, threadlocked the outside and nary a drop of oil has come from the engine since. More oil is in my hair than the bottom of that engine.

BTW-

"nary a drop" is Tennessee talk - it means "an absense of even a small amount of the substance" in English.