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Posted

After deeply regretting the sale of a V11Coppa a few years back, I picked up a very low mileage (7K) 2000 V11 sport. I have the shop manual from before, and will be doing all my own service. The bike has been meticulously cared for and has full service records with last service being done at 6K 2 yrs ago.

 

I'll be doing TB sync, valves, eng oil/filter, brake pads, brake and clutch fluids and will likely leave the trans and rear diff alone for now.

 

Any advice on particulars on this model/year to pay attention to?

 

-best experiences with various oil, filters, brake pads (hh vs. not). Just looking for the quick answer, not a 20 page discourse on oil and filters <_>

 

The previous owner did drop it in the driveway and broke off the R side brake lever (no other damage other than minor scrape in the cylinder guard) however the F brake micro switch came loose and does not seem to easily stay on the m/f blade connectors now. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance and looking forward to all the advice and opinions here.

Posted

Hi,

 

Sounds like you are fairly skilled already. The one item I can attest to is when changing tires, go one size smaller on the rear. The stock was a 170-70 on our bikes. A member of this board (Ratchet) suggested superior handling with these redf frame bikes (25 degree rake vs 26 degree for your previos bike) and I agree since switching.

 

Greg from MI suggests we use hose clamps on the oil filter. Despite many opinions on this ,Greg has seen more than one hit his shop where the filter has backed off. I have used one since I read his post (Cheap Insurance IMHO).

 

PICT0006-5-1.jpg

 

There was a Con Rod recall.....guessing your bike had the recall work completed?

 

I am not posative, but I think your manual calls for a different weight oil from your previous V11. The manual calls for 20w50 on our 2000 models. I use AMSOIL. You are correct, much debate here.

 

Can't help you with pads.....haven't done that yet. Many others way more knowledeable than I am will add for you I am sure.

 

Congrats on your new to you V11! Post a pic!

 

regards,

Bob

Posted

you can get a new micro switch from Radio Shack for a couple bucks.. bring the old one in and go thru the drawers to match one up.. you might have to break off a little tab on the new one to make it fit.. don't expect the clerk to know anything about your needs.. in the old days the guy would know what you need but now it will just be a kid there who knows nothing.

Posted
Hi,

 

Sounds like you are fairly skilled already. The one item I can attest to is when changing tires, go one size smaller on the

There was a Con Rod recall.....guessing your bike had the recall work completed?

 

I am not posative, but I think your manual calls for a different weight oil from your previous V11. The manual calls for 20w50 on our 2000 models. I use AMSOIL. You are correct, much debate here.

 

Verified all recalls done. Curious about the satisfaction with use of "Big Twin" specific oils in the V11? I recall from previously that my dealer at the time (Detroit Eurocycles RIP) recommended dino in the engine syn in the diff and tranny due to metal to metal seals in the eng to tranny and seepage with syn. Fact or fiction?

 

Pictures to follow.

Guest ratchethack
Posted
. . .Curious about the satisfaction with use of "Big Twin" specific oils in the V11?

The critical consideration on engine oil is ZDDP content. Guzzi tappets need either high ZDDP oil, or a ZDDP additive for optimum protection. The Enviro-Nazis have mandated an ever-increasing pile of counter-productive (and even environmentally destructive) crap <_< that has resulted in reduced ZDDP in oil over the last decade (plus) to extend the life of catalytic converters. Among other things, this has resulted in oil that is far from optimum for pushrod motors. IIRC, ZDDP content of "Big Twin" specific oil is usually somewhere around double that of nearly all of today's automotive oils.

 

See Hot Rod Magazine article on the topic here:

 

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/...tech/index.html

Posted

I would use UFI filters. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 20/50. Get the Roper plate and oil filters from Greg @ Moto International. Get the brake switch (after pinching the connectors with side cutters) from Greg also. It is not going to hurt to buy OEM parts because that is how dealerships stay in business. I don't know if grand Rapids Guzzi is still open or not.You can call them for parts also.

p.s. keep using the worm gear clamp on the oil filter.

Posted

I use Redline Lubricants in my 2004 Ballabio. Shock Proof Heavy in transmission and final drive and 20w50 motorcycle oil in the engine. Kind of pricey but holds up real well and I only change once a year. I average 5000 miles a year on the Ballabio because it is my primary commuter bike, I share pleasure miles with my Eldorado (or will again when I finish repairs).

I have not seem any bad from these lubes, no seeping on the engine and smooth gear changes.

 

Joe in Atlanta

1972 Eldorado

2004 Ballabio

Posted
I would use UFI filters. I use Mobil 1 synthetic 20/50. Get the Roper plate and oil filters from Greg @ Moto International. Get the brake switch (after pinching the connectors with side cutters) from Greg also. It is not going to hurt to buy OEM parts because that is how dealerships stay in business. I don't know if grand Rapids Guzzi is still open or not.You can call them for parts also.

p.s. keep using the worm gear clamp on the oil filter.

 

I must of missed the brake switch issue. What does pinching the connectors fix?

Jim

Posted

Consider changing out the electric fuel petcock for the manual one. It will eliminate the possible closing of the petcock due to vibration damage on the pitifully designed electric system feeding this thing. There is also the theory that this electric petcock, which closes when you shut the ignition switch off, may be a partial factor in the dreaded vapour lock situation, which happens after the bike sits in hot weather imediately after a long ride. The theory is the fuel being shut off causes a lack of fuel in the lines. Also consider using firesleeve over the exposed fuel lines, another possible cause of this vapour lock issue on bikes with 'outside of tank' fuel pump.

Check the condition of the oil cooler brackets. Pre 2002 models used aluminium which crack from, you guessed it, vibration. The retro'd to steel in 2002.

Check the clearance of the side covers to the underside of the tank. Improper height rear tank support causes the tank to settle on the side covers, cracking them at the fastening points on the airbox.

Of course, the elimination of the crappy German relays will eliminate grief.

Check, tightness of ignition switch bolts, they go loose from vibration.

Motorcycle specific oils are the key, whether synthetic or not. They are easily available, and easily cope with the V11 based engine. Anyone who thinks that a Guzzi engine stresses oil more than a 175 hp ZX10 engine, really needs to step back and realize what they are saying. The air cooled design of the engine here, and the fact that we ride our bikes mostlty in summer, means you should go with a thicker oil, 20w-50 vs 10w-40.

Steve

Posted

2000 V11

 

Rear tire should drop a size to 160/60 17 . The 170/60 that comes on the bike is too big for the wheel. The tire ends up with a profile that has a point at the peak. Always feels like thee bike is falling into corners. The smaller size gives a round profile. This was fixed with a wider wheel in later models.

 

 

What also imroves handling of that year is dropping the front end 3/8 - 1/2 in. Loosen the triple tree and slide shock up even on both sides. The change is noticable.

Check out www.guzzitech.com site.

 

 

Check to make sure the seimens relays have been replaced. They were underated and failed. Again www.guzzitech.com site

 

Get rid of electric petcock!

 

Moto International used to sell barends ffor this bike. Using them and CRG mirrors eliminates handle bar vibrations. Great fix.

 

 

Tom

  • 1 month later...
Posted

fly4hire,

 

Where are you located? I've got a 2003 LeMans in Ann Arbor. I usually notice other Guzzis (being so uncommon), and i only know of 2 Sports - One in Chelsea and one around Oakland U. Just curious.....

 

 

 

Verified all recalls done. Curious about the satisfaction with use of "Big Twin" specific oils in the V11? I recall from previously that my dealer at the time (Detroit Eurocycles RIP) recommended dino in the engine syn in the diff and tranny due to metal to metal seals in the eng to tranny and seepage with syn. Fact or fiction?

 

Pictures to follow.

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