Oil light on again:

[tmcafe]

TMC, it looks like you've correctly ID'd the OP sensor. It's 21 mm. No need to remove the tank. Unplug the sensor wire and spin it off. Once you have the sensor out, you can BRIEFLY check for oil pressure by taking out the spark plugs and spinning the motor with no compression. Unless you have a rag over the hole, with normal operation of the oil pump and PRV, you'll have a small geyser. At that point, a small (but significant!) celebration may be appropriate.

Grazie Comendatore!

 

Sorry but I'm trying to understand ed-zachary:

 

you unplug the sensor wire at the engine block fitting? Asking because it looked like there wasn't anything to be (safely with no abusive force) unplugged or spun off other than the 21 mm hex brass holder.

 

Also why does the OP sens. need to be removed and BOTH plugs to check oil pressure by spinning the engine?

 

Sorry if Qs are silly.

 

I'd check the OPRV too if I trusted more my mechanical (in)competence.

[Guest ratchethack]

Grazie Comendatore!

 

Sorry but I'm trying to understand ed-zachary:

 

you unplug the sensor wire at the engine block fitting? Asking because it looked like there wasn't anything to be (safely with no abusive force) unplugged or spun off other than the 21 mm hex brass holder.

 

Also why does the OP sens. need to be removed and BOTH plugs to check oil pressure by spinning the engine?

 

Sorry if Qs are silly.

 

I'd check the OPRV too if I trusted more my mechanical (in)competence.

No need to apologize, TMC. Sincere Q's always more'n welcome.

 

The bullet connector at the OP sensor is a mite stubborn, IIRC, but will yield to as much "persuasion" as you're likely to give it, no abusive force required. Taking out both spark plugs gives the motor an easy, short spin whilst allowing the oil pump to demonstrate that it's doing its job without the encumbrance of compression, and ensures she won't fire up (you don't want that with no oil pressure!).

 

The above is LOTS easier than dismantling the OPRV. No sense doing it if not absolutely necessary.

[Greg Field]

Thanks everybody for the helpful comments.

 

One more Q: does removing the oil pressure sensor (even just to check/clean the connecting tube) involve removing the tank? It looks like it takes a 21 mm wrench which I happen to have, but I'd be so happy if I didn't have to remove the tank again. Also if the sensor is easy to remove I'd be glad to check the pressure with the gauge from Greg. I may install a pressure gauge anyway as that idiot light is too little too late.

 

So far bike has been running great. Yesterday I put about 200 mi on it. Oil temp was around 90 C, but I was shocked to see earlier in the day 120 C after only a couple miles around town from cold! Yes it was hot ouside but still... Oil is Mobil 1 racing 10w 40, will replace with Elf 10w 50 full syn SG which I got a while ago.

 

That's how hot they run. These people who say Guzzis are overcooled just haven't checked the temperatures on a V11. In SEATTLE winter temps of 35 degrees F. and light rain, my V11 oil temp hits nearly 100 C in the 13 miles to work. The Eldo, on the same type of day, doesn't top 75 degrees C, and it doesn't have an oil cooler and makes not too many fewer horsepower.

[Tom M]

Oil is Mobil 1 racing 10w 40, will replace with Elf 10w 50 full syn SG which I got a while ago.

 

I bet your problem goes away with the Elf oil. 40w is too thin for really hot weather. Also as RH advised, adjust the idle up to >1100rpm if it isn't already there.

[MichaelRoger]

Yes, of course you have, but how big the concern is what you need to determine.

 

First, check the oil level in your engine when the car is parked on level ground and the engine as cold as possible.

 

Top up with the correct grade of oil if necessary.

 

If still flickering, get the car checked over at a garage.

 

It could be something as simple as dodgy wiring or sensor, but could also be a sign that oil pressure is low owing to tired oil pump or worn engine.

Edited June 6, 2009 by jimbemotumbo
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