suspension settings query

[SBJ]

Hi all.

 

Probably another SBJ classic thick headed question but here goes..........

 

question 1

 

I am going to put the suspension back to the factory settings as quoted in the manual - but don't know which end position to start from.

 

e.g. When talking about the rear shock the manual says....

 

"Extension (ring-nut A) 20 snaps starting from the completely closed position" ; but what exactly is "closed"?. Obviously the adjusters are marked with a - and a +, so does it mean I have to turn it fully to the end in the - (minus) direction to start with or to the + direction. I am assuming "closed" means start from the - end?

 

question 2

 

In order to adjust the spring preload you need to take off the side panels which in turn means you need to remove the tank right?

 

question 3

 

I don't have the factory tool kit - can the spring preload be adjusted without a "special key" that the manual refers to?

 

question 4

 

Does anyone have any good suggested settings for a 13stoner - normal road riding (I know this depends on so many other factors - but just curious).

 

And just as an aside, I changed from my mistral carbon race cans back to standard today for an MOT on Monday and the noise is now fairly rubbish but it runs SOOOO much smoother.

 

Thanks for any input you beautiful people you.

[GuzziMoto]

Yes, fully closed is fully screwed in often represented by a minus sign(-) since as you close the oriface it will have more dampening.

The side panels have little to do with adjusting the shock preload. Removing them gains you little as they mainly cover the sides of the airbox.

You will likely want to at the very least undo the rear mount for the tank and pivot it up. I prefer to remove it entirely. You do not need a "special tool" to adjust the shock but atleast having a generic shock preload adjuster is a good idea. They sell them at any good M/C shop. It is not that easy to adjust the preload due to the lack of access with the airbox in the way. A proper tool will make the job a little easier.

For rear sag settings I like about one inch of sag from fully unloaded to fully loaded with rider in full gear and seated on the bike as if riding (static sag). Another measurement is how far the bike sags from fully unloaded to sitting there with only the weight of the bike compressing the suspension (free sag). This number should be small but definetely there, i.e. the bike should not be setup to have zero sag (or lots of sag) with no one one board in order to have the correct sag with rider on board. That would indicate that the spring is to soft (or too hard). 5mm is a good number. A good target to shoot for with static sag is 20-25% of travel. This comes out to about 1-1 1/4" of sag on a bike with 5" of travel. I prefer a slightly stiffer setup so I lean towards the 1" side but you may prefer it "softer". To point out something here, it is often refered to as softer when you lessen the preload and stiffer when you tighten the preload but that is not really correct. Changing the spring can make it softer or harder. Changing the preload changes the ride height and thus the available travel but it does not make the spring "harder" or "softer" .Unless you go beyond the points recommended by most suspension tuners (i.e. no free sag or massive amounts of free sag all you are doing is adjusting the ride height.

 

Edit: Here is a link to an explanation on setting sag.

http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_geek/index.html

There are many others if you google.

[dlaing]

And just as an aside, I changed from my mistral carbon race cans back to standard today for an MOT on Monday and the noise is now fairly rubbish but it runs SOOOO much smoother.

You might consider remapping the ECU with Tune Boy, Direct Link, replacing with MY15M, or maybe getting one of them add on gadgets.

On the other hand, if the police don't hear you from 5 miles away, it makes you less likely to be targeted.

 

A 13 stone rider will do best with stiffer than stock spring.

The stock bike is sprung about right for someone weighing about 6 to 9 stone.

For the rear shock:

475# is about right for a comfortable ride on quality roads.

550# is about right for aggressive sport riding and coping with mild pot holes.

The stock spring is probably in the 400 to 450 pound range (stock Ohlins is allegedly 475#)

Opinions are like what you sit on, everyone has one, so weigh the evidence and react accordingly.

 

For your weight the front will do beter at about 1.0 Kg/mm...again, opinions vary

Stock fork springs are alleged to vary and are probably in the 0.65 to 0.85 range.

[Greg Field]

Fully closed, from what I understand, means fully "hard" (i.e. fully to the "+" side of the adjustment), which means clockwise, as the screw turns. Memory tells me this is what is specified for both the silver and black Marzocchi forks and also the yellow Ohlins.

[GuzziMoto]

My apologies, I should have looked at mine first. Fully closed is fully screwed in, which in this case is a plus (+) sign.

Don't know where I got the minus sign in my head from.

Sorry.

[Dan M]

Others here have good advice for you. The stock springs are very soft for an average sized person. Getting your bike sprung properly for your weight as Dave suggests is your first priority. As Greg said, closed / all the way clockwise is full stiff for damping. Backing off (anti-clockwise), decreases damping. Factory settings are at most a starting point. As you add spring pressure to properly suspend the weight, you'll have to add damping to control it, especially rebound damping.

 

Adjusting rear preload requires a spanner to "grab" the adjusting rings. It can be walked around with a brass punch once you back off the lock ring. This manner of adjustment is tedious and usually causes some cosmetic damage to the adjusters. A proper spanner is pretty inexpensive.

[SBJ]

Thanks for the advice so far chaps.

 

If I decided to upgrade the shock and fork springs, what options are there? I know hyperpro do a combi kit which is available for v11's. Any other recommendations?

[tmcafe]

Others here have good advice for you. The stock springs are very soft for an average sized person. Getting your bike sprung properly for your weight as Dave suggests is your first priority. As Greg said, closed / all the way clockwise is full stiff for damping. Backing off (anti-clockwise), decreases damping. Factory settings are at most a starting point. As you add spring pressure to properly suspend the weight, you'll have to add damping to control it, especially rebound damping.

 

Adjusting rear preload requires a spanner to "grab" the adjusting rings. It can be walked around with a brass punch once you back off the lock ring. This manner of adjustment is tedious and usually causes some cosmetic damage to the adjusters. A proper spanner is pretty inexpensive.

Sorry to revive this old thread--at least I m doing my homework. I do have a shock spanner, but is there a way to use it on the shock adjusters without removing damn near everything (tank AND airbox)? Removing side panels and rising tank won't do. So far the drift and mallet seem like the only option.

 

In purgatorium Luigi will adjust the shock preload for hours a day.

[richard100t]

Sorry to revive this old thread--at least I m doing my homework. I do have a shock spanner, but is there a way to use it on the shock adjusters without removing damn near everything (tank AND airbox)? Removing side panels and rising tank won't do. So far the drift and mallet seem like the only option.

 

In purgatorium Luigi will adjust the shock preload for hours a day.

This sounds like yet one more good reason to pull out the airbox & put on some K&N pods!

When I want to adjust my preload, the pods come off with the turn of a screw & its all wide open for you.

Oh yeah, & those side panels belong on a shelf...probably next to the airbox. There are a few people that dont like the pods for various reasons, but they sure do make it easier to work on.

[The Monkey]

I hate to admit this but after pondering the lack of access for adjusting spring preload (I even tried a small spring compressor). I used the drift and mallet to back off the lock ring grabbed a 4 foot pry bar wrapped it in a rag to protect the frame and used that as leverage to compress the spring (from above) while spinning the adjuster ring with a long screwdriver. I used about 80-85 percent of the available adjustment, enough to have the bike settle evenly at both ends when Im on it. I am 200 lbs and the bike was transformed from a squatting old nag to a competent cornering machine. You might not have to swap your rear spring until its worn out. Crude, but it worked. Man's cruelty to man is exceeded only by Man's cruelty to machinery. Cheers