Front wheel spacer loose

[Revilo]

Hi Folks.

Thanks for all your input on this. It was the wrong R/H bearing. Should be 20mm int dia. on right, 25mm on left. Bought one, fitted and ridden. Obvious really.

Thank you @Lucky Phil. I think my bike fits your description of for the KS although the engine number is prefixed KR........ I can add that the clip ons are fitted above the triple clamps.

But two further points of interest. (to some?)

1. The bike came to me with both, clip ons (in a box) and what look to be MG full handlebars with riser clamps, and the necessary drillings in the top triple clamp which led me to think that my bike is actually a Ballabio, but why the MG marked clip ons?...... I prefer it with the clip ons and but with lowered foot pegs.

2. The rear bevel transmission box is painted Black, but has definite signs of bright red under the black which makes me wonder what's been occuring?

First registered in UK in March 2003. 3 former keepers so who actually knows?

A few people have suggested that things were in flux at this time at the factory. Feels a bit like it.

On the plus side the bike rides well and feels good...so..

[docc]

12 minutes ago, Revilo said:

Hi Folks.

Thanks for all your input on this. It was the wrong R/H bearing. Should be 20mm int dia. on right, 25mm on left. Bought one, fitted and ridden. Obvious really.

Thank you @Lucky Phil. I think my bike fits your description of for the KS although the engine number is prefixed KR........ I can add that the clip ons are fitted above the triple clamps.

But two further points of interest. (to some?)

1. The bike came to me with both, clip ons (in a box) and what look to be MG full handlebars with riser clamps, and the necessary drillings in the top triple clamp which led me to think that my bike is actually a Ballabio, but why the MG marked clip ons?...... I prefer it with the clip ons and but with lowered foot pegs.

2. The rear bevel transmission box is painted Black, but has definite signs of bright red under the black which makes me wonder what's been occuring?

First registered in UK in March 2003. 3 former keepers so who actually knows?

A few people have suggested that things were in flux at this time at the factory. Feels a bit like it.

On the plus side the bike rides well and feels good...so..

Good news on your fix! Time to try and figure out what it started out as. (Pretty much impossible to figure out what previous owners have changed, or why.)

So, again, @Revilo, does your 2003 Sport have White face Veglia gauges and a "chin pad" tank? The "KR" versus "KS" is not in the engine number, but in the VIN in the 7th and 8th positions (before the numbers begin).

What is the actual build date scribed into the aluminium manufacturer's plate on the left side of the headstock?

  ???

                                         ???

 

[Weegie]

Just still trying to get my head around this

Does the bearing spacer in the middle of the wheel slide into the 25mm id bearing on the left reducing its diameter to 20mm and on the right the bearing spacer just butts up against the bearing?

I'm thinking there must be logic in it (or is there?)

On my planet I'd have thought that the spacer should either butt against the bearings OR slide into both bearings perhaps to tighten up parallel alignment of the bearings.

Every day a school day

[80CX100]

Hey Weegie, I'm in agreement, my head is still spinning trying figure out the logic in the design.

The OP's KS forks, as described in the info provided by Lucky Phil, match what you've just described above.

A nice balanced design, imho would be with both bearings located and loaded by the edges or interiors, a combination of those forces from the get go on the drawing board, seems unusual.

You have to wonder if at the time, they would alter design to match whatever parts they had on hand in the warehouse or were surplus from suppliers and available cheaply.

fwiw idk

[Weegie]

54 minutes ago, 80CX100 said:

You have to wonder if at the time, they would alter design to match whatever parts they had on hand in the warehouse or were surplus from suppliers and available cheaply.

fwiw idk

That's probably the most likely explanation right there

[Lucky Phil]

16 hours ago, Weegie said:

Just still trying to get my head around this

Does the bearing spacer in the middle of the wheel slide into the 25mm id bearing on the left reducing its diameter to 20mm and on the right the bearing spacer just butts up against the bearing?

I'm thinking there must be logic in it (or is there?)

On my planet I'd have thought that the spacer should either butt against the bearings OR slide into both bearings perhaps to tighten up parallel alignment of the bearings.

Every day a school day

I believe this is the way it works. Its sleeved on one end to reduce the bearing ID and provides a shoulder as well for bearing spacing. the other end is flush up against the opposite bearing inner race. I've seen this technique on other wheels and it's what the parts book seems to indicate on this model as opposed to the later model with 2 25mm ID bearings and the usual flush ended spacer with a radial control ring on the OD.

Ciao  

[Revilo]

Hello again fellow puzzle solvers. 

Thanks again for your interest and input.

Docc. Yes my bike has a chin pad and white dials. The VIN number on the log book begins ZGUKS000.... which matches the numbers on the headstock. Im not sure how to decode the year of manufacture. The other long number begins e3*92/..... 

Weegie, LuckyPhil, 80CX100..You all seem to have this right in describing my set up which does fit with the diagram found on the Harpers site ..see above.

20mm bearing on RHS. 25mm on LHS. No nut, but axle spindle threads directly into left leg. Spindle passes through 25 mm drilling in RH fork leg, shoulder of spindle butts up against outer face of RH bearing. through inner sleeve which has an internal diameter of 20mm. and external diameter of 25mm, with a wider shoulder which butts against the inner side of the LH bearing. This inner sleeve protrudes about 13 mm through the LH bearing, the 15mm aluminium (int dia. 25mm) spacer slips over that, and butts up against the outer face of the LH bearing and the inner face of the LH fork leg. Everything tightens together when the spindle is torqued up with the 14mm hex allen key from the right. Two screws on the RH leg lock the spindle.

This does seem an odd design to me too, partly because it is possible to assemble things incorrectly, as I have discovered. If I understand it correctly now it perhaps offers the advantage that both bearings inner races are supported on both their inner and outer faces......but the "whats in the parts bin this week?" also seems plausible?

I'm just glad to have it all back together...new rubber and bearings, new shock (another story!) improved mud protection, and sundry other detailing points.

[docc]

The year model is coded on the VIN before the actual serial number.

YM=2000, 1M= 2001, 2M=2002 etc.

The actual month/year the particular unit was built is scribed into the metal plate on the left of the headstock. You likely will have to push some wiring out of your way to see it.

[Revilo]

HI Docc. Thanks. From the photo year of manufacture would seem to be 2002..which makes sense given it was first registered in the UK in March 2003.

Does this tell me anything else I need to know?

Thanks for your interest

 

[docc]

Look further on that metal tag for the actual month-year build date.

All V11 are vastly interesting and curiously rare. 
 

“Collect them all!”