electrical nightmare

[Kiwi_Roy]

Did you see the other thread? You need the reference from relay 2.

Yes, Docc ran a test and found that charging stops if Relay 2 (headlight relay) is removed, the tacho and panel lights also take power from the headlight relay.

 

"You don't have to be an electrician to ride a Guzzi, but it helps"

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

dear Guzzi, you defeated me... I give up

 

simple question, how long can V11 run from battery? In 4 days I have my track lessons. Without lights and all the stuff, it should take 20mins ride, than 40min charging and again. What do you think? Anyway, during cranking, the batt voltage drops to 9,65V. Should this be the problem?

 

 

[docc]

dear Guzzi, you defeated me... I give up

 

simple question, how long can V11 run from battery? In 4 days I have my track lessons. Without lights and all the stuff, it should take 20mins ride, than 40min charging and again. What do you think? Anyway, during cranking, the batt voltage drops to 9,65V. Should this be the problem?

 

 

 

That is my cranking voltage also (4 year old Hawker).

 

When my stator wire broke, the V11 ran for maybe 20 minutes, but then became very unhappy.

 

Slavomir, I'll have to go all the way back through your thread and try to understand better your trouble. Are all other Relay 2 functions normal? (headlight,horn, warn lights, brake light and tachometer?)

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

That is my cranking voltage also (4 year old Hawker).

 

When my stator wire broke, the V11 ran for maybe 20 minutes, but then became very unhappy.

 

Slavomir, I'll have to go all the way back through your thread and try to understand better your trouble. Are all other Relay 2 functions normal? (headlight,horn, warn lights, brake light and tachometer?)

 

Thanks for your help Docc!

 

Brake light, headlight, horn all is working except tachometer

 

I use OEM rectifier now and have bypassed the charging circuit. Thick wire is going directly from two red cables in rectifier to 30A fuse holder and than to positive pole of battery. From negative pole, thick wire is going to ground of the rectifier. Blue cable from main loom connects to white cable in rectifier, red-black one is connected to the black one from rectifier. No other mods in electricity has been performed.

 

 

[Kiwi_Roy]

If you don't need your headlight for the track test the battery should last at least a couple of hours

just shed some of the non essential load

[docc]

Slavo, I agree with Roy that there must be a short in the harness somewhere. What is the voltage on the Red/black wire?

 

Will she charge if you apply battery voltage to that wire into the regulator (applying battery voltage into the harness at the red/black may only induce the short!)

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

Slavo, I agree with Roy that there must be a short in the harness somewhere. What is the voltage on the Red/black wire?

 

Will she charge if you apply battery voltage to that wire into the regulator (applying battery voltage into the harness at the red/black may only induce the short!)

 

with engine off, ignition on, black-red cabel gives 12,58V (battery has 12,66V) headlight off.

[docc]

with engine off, ignition on, black-red cabel gives 12,58V (battery has 12,66V) headlight off.

 

Looks like your reference voltage from relay2 is correct (You mean you shut the headlight off at the switch, yes?)

Just to confirm:

Voltage from the alternator seems correct, and the bike starts and runs. Headlight, horn, brake light are good.

 

Tachometer does not function.

 

But do the charge/oil and hi-beam warning lights come on with the ignition switch?

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

charge/oil + beam lights are also working Docc

[Kiwi_Roy]

I had trouble with my bike over the weekend with lots of start/stops and no long runs it dropped to a point where it would no longer crank. The first thing I noticed the tacho started wavering with the turn indicators on,

The battery has always been low, so I knew i was going to have to look at it sooner or later, I have a Ducati regulator also.

So heres what I found

I disconnected the single plug where the two red wires connect to the single wire back to 30 amp fuse and inserted my meter, it measured 4.5 - 5 amps at idle, I thought that should charge OK but no the battery kept dropping in voltage,

Next I inserted my meter between the battery and the two red wires (left the starter wire on the battery) so now I see that below 2000 rpm I have a net loss of charge. It turns out there is about 9 amps leaving the battery

I pulled the regulator off, the mounting looks a little corroded. It relies on the mounting bolts to carry all of the current from generator. Any voltage drop from regulator case to chassis will show up as a loss in battery volts. Aluminium to steel is not a happy match so I made myself a good solid grounding cable which I bolted to one of the fins filed and slathered with lots of petroleum jelly to keep out the moisture (corrosion) I will connect the other end to a suitable bolt on the engine,

Tonight I will stick it all back together and keep you posted

 

BTW without the headlight powered my regulator doesn't put out any current either (no reference voltage)

 

Cheers

 

Roy

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

Roy, Docc,

 

could all this problem cause dead battery? When I send nominal current (0,1A) to it and measure voltage between poles, it shows some 13V+. If battery has high resistance, the charging circuit should not be able to give it any charge, am I right in my thoughts?

 

 

Slavek

 

(btw, only on battery, Guzzi can run roughly 20-30 rounds on 4,5km long circuit

[Kiwi_Roy]

Roy, Docc,

could all this problem cause dead battery? When I send nominal current (0,1A) to it and measure voltage between poles, it shows some 13V+. If battery has high resistance, the charging circuit should not be able to give it any charge, am I right in my thoughts?

Slavek

The battery resistance is normally very low, that's how it's able to put out 100 amps to crank the engine (the starter is rated 120 Watts)

 

If you see 13V with 0.1 Amp the battery must be nearly fully charged or so old the plates have fallen apart.

The regulator will stop putting out current once it's reached the voltage setpoint, maybe yours is set at 13?

Remember though there's about 9 amps going out of the battery when running, as the battery voltage drops

the regulator has to pick that up

Check and see you have 12V at the harness side of the double plug where the regulator plugs in (key on)

the male pin comes from the charging light

The female pin comes from the headlight relay

Without 12 V on the female the regulator will not work (sorry I don't know the wire colours)

 

The fact that the tacho is not working tells me the 12 V is missing,

 

My bike is loosing it's tacho too at the moment, I thought I had found it when I found a loose relay 2 socket.

Another possibility, perhaps it's broken where it flexes with steering.

I will be sure to keep you posted, please do likewise.

Roy

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

The battery resistance is normally very low, that's how it's able to put out 100 amps to crank the engine (the starter is rated 120 Watts)

 

If you see 13V with 0.1 Amp the battery must be nearly fully charged or so old the plates have fallen apart.

The regulator will stop putting out current once it's reached the voltage setpoint, maybe yours is set at 13?

Remember though there's about 9 amps going out of the battery when running, as the battery voltage drops

the regulator has to pick that up

Check and see you have 12V at the harness side of the double plug where the regulator plugs in (key on)

the male pin comes from the charging light

The female pin comes from the headlight relay

Without 12 V on the female the regulator will not work (sorry I don't know the wire colours)

 

The fact that the tacho is not working tells me the 12 V is missing,

 

My bike is loosing it's tacho too at the moment, I thought I had found it when I found a loose relay 2 socket.

Another possibility, perhaps it's broken where it flexes with steering.

I will be sure to keep you posted, please do likewise.

Roy

 

ignition off, key on, oil light on, charging light off

 

battery voltage 12,53V, between the wire you mentioned and chasis I measured 12,45V.

 

Slavek

[Kiwi_Roy]

ignition off, key on, oil light on, charging light off

 

battery voltage 12,53V, between the wire you mentioned and chasis I measured 12,45V.

 

Slavek

Sorry, I'm not going to read the whole thread again.

 

You should also have 12V on the other wire, male pin, that comes back through the charge light, brush it quickly to ground and you should see the light come on

 

Do you get a good AC voltage across the two yellow wires from alternator, I think it's 20 - 60 V depending on revs.

Check the resistance from where the two reds plug in (Position 1) to the battery positive, should be very low

If you have an Amps scale on your meter connect it in series with this cable, see sketch, Position 1

 

If you don't have an amps range, is your meter digital with a mV range, do you have some 20 Amp wire of known size (cross section)?

Charging Circuit.pdf

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

Sorry, I'm not going to read the whole thread again.

 

You should also have 12V on the other wire, male pin, that comes back through the charge light, brush it quickly to ground and you should see the light come on

 

Do you get a good AC voltage across the two yellow wires from alternator, I think it's 20 - 60 V depending on revs.

Check the resistance from where the two reds plug in (Position 1) to the battery positive, should be very low

If you have an Amps scale on your meter connect it in series with this cable, see sketch, Position 1

 

If you don't have an amps range, is your meter digital with a mV range, do you have some 20 Amp wire of known size (cross section)?

 

 

Roy! It seems we are getting somewhere

 

so, on both black and white wires going from rectifier I can read 12V. When white wire brushed to ground, charge light goes on.

from two yellow wires I can read up to 80V depending on revs

resistance in point you've mentioned is 0,06 Ohms

 

white wire from rectifier connects to blue in harness, should I focus on this one?