electrical nightmare

[dlaing]

so... amp superseal conectors mounted, new regulator installed - charging 14V on idle with lights and 14.5 in higher revs - I guess that is ok

 

but:

 

no oil light after powering the ignition

and rpm meter is dead...

 

what should be?

 

I have focused mainly on charging wires, haven!t touched anything else

If the horn and brake light are also dead, look to relays.

If not, look to ground at tachometer body.

[pete roper]

Just a suggestion which may not have any relevance but try running another earth wire to the battery negative, use a big, thick, wire from somewhere on the block, (Like a bell housing bolt.) to the battery. Then add another suplementary earth, (A lightweight wire for this should be fine.) from the computer and the reg/rec to the block as well.

 

While it may not be the case 99% of all shitty problems that aren't relay related are going to be earth path related.

 

Pete

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

Just a suggestion which may not have any relevance but try running another earth wire to the battery negative, use a big, thick, wire from somewhere on the block, (Like a bell housing bolt.) to the battery. Then add another suplementary earth, (A lightweight wire for this should be fine.) from the computer and the reg/rec to the block as well.

 

While it may not be the case 99% of all shitty problems that aren't relay related are going to be earth path related.

 

Pete

 

will do Peter!

 

thx!

[Guzzi2Go]

Hi Slavek,

 

ERROR/EDIT: It is the black wire that is ground! Yellow/black is tach signal! Corrections bellow.

 

two wires to check: Yellow/Black and Red/Black both "docked" on the tach.

 

Yellow/Black is earth/minus. Take ohm-meter, or even better diode/tester, unplug the wire from the tach and check the resistance. Good earth resistance does not exceed 1 ohm.

 

Red/Black is power/plus running from tach (powering oil, petrol, generator lights and the tach itself). This wire comes directly from the regulator, but it takes a couple of turns through (not literally) various switches and relays. Measure resistance between tach positive connector, and (if possible) where red/black of the wiring loom and black of the alternator meet. Should not exceed few ohm. You can also measure a voltage drop between these two points while engine is running. Should be close to 0V.

 

Looking at the schematics, it is a bit odd that oil light and tach do not work, but generator and petrol (does it?) lights do. This would imply that powering is OK (since they all source power from the same line - red/black), and that you have simultaneous outage of black/yellow and black/blue earth paths. If these two come together on some point on the bike (frame/battery minus?), then this could be it- you need better earthing. If there is only one point where all earth wires meet, then petrol light should not work either.

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

guzzi2go,

 

between those two wires on tach you!ve mentioned is just slightly under 1 ohm.

 

also, light fuse keep blowing immediately, no horns, brake light and etc. Indicators are running fine starting, charging but still no oil and charge light... (I assume I can live without these two, oil check after every ride, as normal).

 

all connectors are clean, cables tight. Negative pole of battery connected directly to the frame, cables are not damaged.

 

I really dont know where to look now

 

No way.

[Murray]

Clearly something is shorted in the light circuit with the aid of a mutimeter on resitance check I'd start disconnecting globes in the lighting circuit till it goes this will give you an idea where it is. NB as globes are desiged to draw current the resitance for the circuit will be very low to begin with. Do you have the lights hard wired on or are they on a switch? If they are on a switch and the fuse blows with the switch off then the short is before the switch. Might be worthing going through the switch blocks as these do fill up with water and road grime over time and don't work well as they do clean. Just be carful as there a springs and ballbearings in the contacts which are quiet happy to jump out and disappear down the nearest drain never to be seen again (do it over a bucket if you are worried about it).

[Guzzi2Go]

guzzi2go,

 

between those two wires on tach you!ve mentioned is just slightly under 1 ohm.

 

also, light fuse keep blowing immediately, no horns, brake light and etc. Indicators are running fine starting, charging but still no oil and charge light... (I assume I can live without these two, oil check after every ride, as normal).

 

all connectors are clean, cables tight. Negative pole of battery connected directly to the frame, cables are not damaged.

 

I really dont know where to look now

 

No way.

 

ERROR/EDIT: It is the black wire, not yellow/black. Sorry.

 

Hmmm, there must be infinite resistance between red/black and yellow/black

 

Is it F5 fuse that fails? The one on the blue wire? If it is, then your brake lights do not work as well. "Looking from the distance", there is a short in the powering circuit (red/black wire). The red/black origins on starter relay (#23) and through it it is connected to the F5 fuse (blue wire).

 

I'd start by disconnecting the tach and jamming ohmmeter/diode tester leads in the yellow/black and red/black connectors (ignition off). Start disconnecting things from the red/black wire until you have infinite resistance between red/black(+) and yellow/black(-). Have wiring diagram in front of you.

 

Things to check (reverse order is also OK, maybe even better):

1. Regulator charging light. Disconnect black lead from the regulator.

2. Horns. Shorted horns might have welded together the contacts in the LH switch.

3. Left hand switch assembly. Disconnect connector #18.

4. Brake light switches, front and rear.

5. Disconnect connector #7 (dashboard) and move the ohmmeter lead connected to the red/black wire to the connector itself (the engine part). If the resistance goes up, then the dashboard cable is faulty.

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

guzzi2go

 

this is a schematics for rectifier i use now:

 

vape r82

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

well, problem finally sold. I dismounted all the wiring, reaped off the rubber and suprisingly! it was full of water! water must get in under the fuse box.

 

so, lights, dash, horn all is working now.

 

feel like an idiot now

[mznyc]

Nice find Slavomir

Hmm,sounds like a design flaw to me.unless we drive into a pond ,our bikes should be able to withstand a downpour indefinitely.I'll have to look at mine, as a few drain holes drilled under the fusebox may be in order

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

aha, story goes on.

 

 

not charging, melting 30A fuse. Blowing 15 fuse on lights. So i am taking spare wiring loom from Ebay and let's see where is the gremlin now

[Kiwi_Roy]

aha, story goes on.

not charging, melting 30A fuse. Blowing 15 fuse on lights. So i am taking spare wiring loom from Ebay and let's see where is the gremlin now

Strip the ignition switch down while you are at it, the voltage shouldn't be able to by-pass that as you describe

With the switch off and the bike not running pull each fuse one at a time and check for current using a 12 V lamp in place of the fuse.

I suspect you will find some wires melted / shorted together between the seat and the switch.

 

I think I would be taking a close look at the connector under the tank at front. Seems a bit like tracking across from one of the Positive wires to a Negative.

 

You really need to find out what's going on the potential arcing could cause a fire. With everything turned off I would remove all the positive wires and measure mA from positive of battery to each of the positive leads, they should all read zero mA. If you see any current at all then you can try to track it down by pulling fuses etc.

 

If you can't find the problem, leave the positive wires off when you are not riding.

 

Report back

Roy

[Slavomir Musilek (R.I.P.)]

SO:

 

I bypassed all the charging circuit by new, thick wire and external fuse holder

 

BUT: no charging though

 

Yellow wires from alternator gives up to 80V depending on revs.

 

connection between regulator and battery is strong - no drops

 

Rectifier disconnected:

multimeter set to diod mode, + tester connected to red cable from rec (that one that goes to battery), - trester connected to each phase going to alternator -> nbo response

 

- tester connected to red cable, + tester to each phase going from alternator -> roughly 0,5V

 

- tester to ground and + tester to each phase from alternator -> no response

 

+ tester to ground, - tester to each phase from alternator -> no response

 

 

so now I am really lost.

 

All three rectifiers, 1 OEM, 1 aftermarket and 1 from Joerge from Germany that was reccomended here gives the same result. And still no charge.

 

Am I right, it should be charging even when the relays would be blown? Wires goes directly from rectifier to fuse and straight to battery.

[Kiwi_Roy]

As I mentioned in the thread "Wont Start" the schematic from Carl Allison shows the headlight

relay also supplies the tacho Generator Light

Oil Light

Low Fuel light

Tachometer (not it's lights though)

Horn

and a wire goes back to the regulator

 

You need to find out where your lihts are shorting and I suspect the charging will follow

 

Roy

[raz]

Am I right, it should be charging even when the relays would be blown? Wires goes directly from rectifier to fuse and straight to battery.

 

Did you see the other thread? You need the reference from relay 2.