gstallons Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 I don't remember ever having the gasket come off any other filter I've used, bike or car. I've had it happen with both UFI's I've changed. No big deal as long as you keep your eyes open for it though... ALWAYS inspect the filter mounting surface for leftover anything. Use a hose clamp, it is much cheaper than an engine.
Dan M Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 I don't remember ever having the gasket come off any other filter I've used, bike or car. I've had it happen with both UFI's I've changed. No big deal as long as you keep your eyes open for it though... Looking at a UFI, the channel that the gasket resides in does not really grip the gasket as tightly as some other brands do. As you say SH, keep your eyes open and there is no harm. Also, with any brand of filter, gaskets tend to stick to the mount when put on dry. I see this removing filters done by quick lube places on a fairly regular basis. The job was usually performed by a high school kid or other "technician" who commands minimum wage or there-abouts. But hey, it's convenient. Usually they are a bear to get off because the same guy used a filter wrench to install it. The trouble comes in though when it is dry and installed by hand. It is impossible to compress that gasket adequately when dry and those are likely to loosen and leak over time. One more thing. Anybody else as tired as me of hearing about Michael Jackson?
Greg Field Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 Looking at a UFI, the channel that the gasket resides in does not really grip the gasket as tightly as some other brands do. As you say SH, keep your eyes open and there is no harm. Also, with any brand of filter, gaskets tend to stick to the mount when put on dry. I see this removing filters done by quick lube places on a fairly regular basis. The job was usually performed by a high school kid or other "technician" who commands minimum wage or there-abouts. But hey, it's convenient.Usually they are a bear to get off because the same guy used a filter wrench to install it. The trouble comes in though when it is dry and installed by hand. It is impossible to compress that gasket adequately when dry and those are likely to loosen and leak over time. One more thing. Anybody else as tired as me of hearing about Michael Jackson? Yep. Hose-clamp his casket shut and shove him underground.
Dan M Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 Yep. Hose-clamp his casket shut and shove him underground. Yet I must add that dead pop stars like tight oil filters don't move so the clamp is unnecessary.
Skeeve Posted July 9, 2009 Posted July 9, 2009 Yet I must add that dead pop stars like tight oil filters don't move so the clamp is unnecessary. That zombie'd moonwalk right outta there if you didn't lock him in his closet! Hey, did you hear that they were going to recycle his deadness of pop music? Yup, he'd got so much plastic in him that the landfill, er, cemetery won't take him. So they're selling him to Lego to be remade into the little clickers. He gets his final wish: having all the kids of the world play with him. He's one happy Michael now! ;D
abarth Posted May 20, 2010 Posted May 20, 2010 One other thing: One time I saw similar symptoms on a customer bike. When he changed the filter, the rubber gasket from the previous filter was stuck on the filter mount, so when he added the new filter there were two gaskets. One slipped, allowing oil pressure to bleed off. +1 Same thing happened to me. Changed oil and filter 2 days ago and today after few miles oil pressure light came on. Take down everything and found extra filter gasket. Assembled back and oil light is gone.
guzzimeister Posted May 22, 2010 Posted May 22, 2010 Nano, the idle should be 1200 RPM. At 800-900 RPM the oil pump is not anywhere near capable of maintaining 2-5 PSI (0.15-0.35 Kg/cm^2) oil pressure , which is the make/break for the oil pressure sensor switch. Operating oil pressure for the mains and crankpin journal is 54-60 PSI (3.8-4.2 Kg/cm^2). If you haven't yet done too much damage, you might be OK. Only time and/or a con-rod caps-off inspection of the bearing shells and crankpin journal will tell for sure. The big-end bearings are the first to let go when she can't take any more metal-on-metal, the heat and cumulative galling of the crankpin journal finally overcomes the integrity of the bearing, it spins in the big ends, and she torches and seizes up solid, or a rod lets go under the strain and makes a break for daylight through the side of the block (whichever comes first, depending on RPMs). By the time you see the idiot light, some damage is already done, but these old donks seem to be able to take quite a bit in stride. Crank up the rear-facing, 2.5 mm allen idle screw at the bottom outboard of the left-hand throttle body. FYI -- Your Tenni has no choke, being fuel injected. You're referring to the idle advance lever. But everyone knows wot you mean. FYI (Part II) -- TWO LITERS is A LOT of oil to add! It must have been VERY LOW -- as in, well off the end of the dipstick! Best keep the level up to at least the mid-point between Hi and Lo on the dipstick at all times! Good luck. Hi I think you may be worrying unnecssarily about a low idle and low oil pressure. I have a pressure guage fitted to my 50k V11, and I check the idle using a diagnostic kit not the inaccurate rev counter. I have a genuine steady idle of 800 rpm, which with balanced throttle bodies is fine. Even whenm warm ie oil temp of 90 degree+, at idle the guage is showing a steady 60psi. From the comments above, I reckon you have a dodgy oil sensor, possibly a flutter caused by low oil level. I suspect the formaer. £ seconds with 2psi will restroy an engine and you will hear nasty heavy knocking sounds particularly under load. Change the oil sensor, they are about £10 from any Fiat dealer. They used to go on my old Fiat 128 too...... Hope it helps guzz
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 My oil light came on the other day, I have changed all the lamps to LEDs It turns out I had washed it a couple of days before and the leakage current was enough to turn the LED on, once the bike heated up and dried out the lamp went off. I have a pressure gauge so it didn't worry me too much. Just thought I would mention it in case others are using LEDs also.
raz Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 I have a pressure gauge so it didn't worry me too much. On another note, how/where did you fit that gauge? I'm just about to mount one but I'm not sure where.
Kiwi_Roy Posted June 17, 2010 Posted June 17, 2010 On another note, how/where did you fit that gauge? I'm just about to mount one but I'm not sure where. Mine was installed by PO it's kind of attached to the left hand throttle body, visible when you glance down
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