no charge

[slug]

If you haven't already (and if your model year has 'em) check all the white plastic (Molex type) connectors on wires that connect to your voltage regulator, alternator, etc. for corrosion and burning.

 

Last March I had several cold weather & low battery starts (bike stuck in ice and slush) which put a horrendous strain on the charging system and burned some wires and a (probably corroded) connector. Pretty much stopped all charging and left me stranded 500 miles from home. <_>

 

Just a thought...

[Tom M]

DCv:

 

Key on - 12.62

Running (any RPM) - 11.95

 

You probably already know this Doc but I'll throw it out there anyway. Since it's not charging the next step is to figure out if the alternator or the regulator is the problem. Disconnect the yellow wires between the alternator and regulator, fire up the bike and look for 15 volts AC at 1000rpm, 40VAC at 3000rpm, 80 VAC at 6000rpm. The meter goes between a yellow wire and ground. My digital meter worked OK for this when I had went through this a couple years ago.

 

If the alternator is working the problem is usually in the regulator.

[docc]

Whoa!

 

I thought the meter measured AC between the two yellow wires? (not ground)

[raz]

I thought the meter measured AC between the two yellow wires? (not ground)

You are correct. And I'm now more convinced the alternator is shot. Can you buy just the stator?

[docc]

Yes, EuroMotoElectrics in Colorado, USA, stocks the part for $235 US. I'm checking now on the extra shipping for 2-day delivery as the summer heat has just cleared and this coming weekend has an extra day ("Labor Day" here in America).

 

I can always ride my GB500 (she never seems to miss a beat!)

[Tom M]

Whoa!

 

I thought the meter measured AC between the two yellow wires? (not ground)

 

I thought I checked it to ground but I'm apparently wrong about that. Sorry for the memory lapse!

[docc]

hey, no problem! I appreciate everyone's input before I order a $250 part that might not fix the problem.

 

I was thinking I had a pretty decent multi-meter. It's Triplett 9005-A that I got from the local electrical supplier (not WalMart).

 

In checking the windings' resistance I even knew to subtract the 0.3 Ohm of the test leads. (I'm kind of surprised nobody mentioned that).

 

In the next $245 and 3-7 days I'll find out if this was a good call!

[Guest ratchethack]

In checking the windings' resistance I even knew to subtract the 0.3 Ohm of the test leads. (I'm kind of surprised nobody mentioned that).

?? Howizzit you can't zero the meter through the test leads, Docc?

[docc]

I thought it was like tare weight. You weigh the receptacle ( you know: baggie, zip-lock, bowl, whatever), and subtract it from the final measure), and use the net measure.

 

I was trying to be smarter than my multi-meter (I'm not, of course, but trying).

[docc]

The good news is EuroMotoElectrics had the stator here in just a couple days.

 

The bad news is that the old stator has a two part collar which sandwiches the stator itself. Is it that I should remove the collars somehow?

 

They don't seem to want to drift easily. Bigger hammer? Heat?

 

Or do I have the wrong stator?

[docc]

OK, then, nobody has had their stator apart?

 

First, yes, the collars must be removed. Apply penetrating oil and come back in an hour. Prop the (old, dead) windings on a staub in the vise. Apply propane heat all around the aluminum collar. Tap and drift gently but decidedly at 120 degree intervals.

 

If your V11 finally has 68,000 miles plus when you get to this point, expect to spend some time cleaning up the effects of steel (stator) against aluminum (the collars).

 

I opted to splice the bullet connectors back in rather than convert to blades.

 

vAC: 26 @1500 rpm

61 @ 3000 rpm

 

(I guess my VOM is okay)

 

vDC: 12.6 @ 900 rpm

13.5 @ 1500 rpm

 

 

Thanks again to John at EuroMotoElectrics

 

You know what's really amazing? Not that this bike is 9 years old or that I've flogged it onto some really hard miles (even into some rain that had a name ("Isadore"). No, it's that the battery light came on last Friday, and I opted to head toward home. I rode about an hour and a half before the ignition gave up. That's fifty plus miles on the Hawker Odyssey alone. Not a bad 'limp home' mode. AND: today, less than a week later, she's back in service!

 

I'm not sure I could get my Honda back into play any quicker. Thanks to this forum (ja, dat means you! ), MI (SeattleWA) and John at EuroMotoElectrics!

[Greg Field]

Congrats, Doc.

[raz]

Great news docc. Praise the Odyssey, many other batteries would have taken permanent damage!

[docc]

I'm really relieved the battery and the regulator are still good. And the Sport really runs better. I'm certain the stator has been playing up for quite some time.

 

Plus I had time to really clean up the mess on the front of the motor, repaint the alternator cover (five coats of Eastwood), and replace my worn out FIAMMs (one lasted 6 years, but the other only one year).

 

Thanks again to everyone for the feedback and support. My Sport would surely not be what it is with out this forum!

[docc]

I just must add, it's quite remarkable how much better the bike runs; so much more power, better/quicker starting, less *popping* and hiccups.

 

True, though, that I did also change the plugs, adjust the valves and (slightly) rebalance the throttle bodies. Oh, well, yes: the lighter motor oil, fresh Redline (lightweight) in the gearbox and heavy in the bevel drive with redline greeze for the shaft.

 

These bikes love you back!

 

I'm ready to head for the mountains!