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Posted

I'm installing the Roper plate (had to change oil and filter again and said WTF, I've been putting it off for too long). So I've been following Greg's instructions posted here.

 

Anyway, I noticed that the perimeter screws on the inner sump (not the 4 ones that hold the journals) were hard to remove and had an amber color dry film near the heads. Were they threadlocked by Luigi, as it may seem, and if so, should I clean them and use some kind of Loctite (I only have blue)? Given the oily mess in there, I'd assume the inner threads would have to be cleaned as well in order to make any Loctite work.

 

So what's the scoop? (or the goop :)) Anything to worry about?

 

TIA

Posted

Yup, that's exactly what I did. Used electrical cleaner spray and plastic straw to blast out the holes, followed by air blow out. Works like a charm since mucho miles ago. :luigi:

Guest ratchethack
Posted

TMC, on the 2 Roper plates that we did a couple years back, I found the same marinara sauce. :helmet: We (of the Hatchracket Guzzi Clinic) considered it good practice (not to mention peace of mind) to clean all screw threads with solvent, give a shot of Brakleen up into the blind threaded holes in the block to clear them of oil, followed that with a blast of compressed air to dry them, and installed with Loctite 242 (blue).

 

Now I'm sure this is completely WRONG according to somebody, but I reckon you can do lots worse, and this is just me -- but I'd be willing to wager that many do. . . ;)

 

Have fun. :luigi:

 

EDIT: A LIGHT application of silicone gasket sealant on the new gaskets rubbed into both sides (just enough to make 'em shiny, and installed quickly before it skins over) has kept 'em both weep and seep free.

Posted

I recommend K&W Coppercoat or Hylomar on gasket surfaces. I have had bad results with gaskets "moving"after applying any type of silicone on gaskets.

Posted

Thanks everybody. Trying to follow the advice. Only trouble is that the goop on the screws doesn't disolve easy with any of the solvents I have. Tried gasket remover, brakleen, carb cleaner, even denatured alcohol. The goop, now rubbery perhaps from solvents, IS removable, only it's a pain, got to do it piece by piece along the thread.

Posted
Thanks everybody. Trying to follow the advice. Only trouble is that the goop on the screws doesn't disolve easy with any of the solvents I have. Tried gasket remover, brakleen, carb cleaner, even denatured alcohol. The goop, now rubbery perhaps from solvents, IS removable, only it's a pain, got to do it piece by piece along the thread.

 

 

The only easy method is a wire wheel (bench grinder type) to remove threadlocker from the threads.

Posted

That thread lock was like hard lacquer. I ran the worst coated screws through an M6 die, they looked like new after that.

Guest ratchethack
Posted
. . .Only trouble is that the goop on the screws doesn't disolve easy with any of the solvents I have. Tried gasket remover, brakleen, carb cleaner, even denatured alcohol. The goop, now rubbery perhaps from solvents, IS removable, only it's a pain, got to do it piece by piece along the thread.

Not to worry, TMC. They don't have to be anything like surgically clean.

 

A little leftover marinara never hurts. . . :food:

Posted
Thanks everybody. Trying to follow the advice. Only trouble is that the goop on the screws doesn't disolve easy with any of the solvents I have. Tried gasket remover, brakleen, carb cleaner, even denatured alcohol. The goop, now rubbery perhaps from solvents, IS removable, only it's a pain, got to do it piece by piece along the thread.

 

I tried a variety of solvents and found that max strength paint stripper worked better than most but still required some wire brushing. Berryman's Chemtool only softened the stuff.

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