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brake line connection


df2

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Guest ratchethack
Okay, by banjo union I"m taking it that you mean the very tip of the gold unit (with ball) just above the brakeline... there is no way this sucker is moving without some serious torque.

David, the origin of the term is beyond me, but per replies above, if you've seen either Deliverance or Braveheart, this may or may not be helpful. ;) Frist I knew of the term was from the manual for my A65 BSA, if that's any help. . .

 

But again, I believe you'll find that you can *crack* the banjo bolt just free enough to rotate the union to a new position without opening up gaps at the crush washers (there are 2) enough to let much, if any, fluid out, or air in. A little *finesse* is called for here, (no brute force!) but it ain't all that difficult, and no "serious torque" needed. If you use a long-handled box end or socket with a breaker bar on it for high leverage through the tiniest possible arc of rotation, you can easily accomplish this.

 

Good luck. :luigi:

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This is a dumb question- are there banjos in Europe or is it historically an American thing?

 

Banjos were invented here; who knows how they've propagated over the intervening years? But originally, they are a purely 'murrican instrument... :grin:

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Too much air and it will not "self bleed" - The air will be at the top of the circuit though so usually if you compress the caliper pistons it will shove the air into the reservoir.

Another approach is to apply light pressure to the brake lever to create positive pressure in the fitting for the moment you have it loose. Fluid will come out but air will not go in. (use rags or paper towels as others suggested and work fast). If you need both hands to loosen the bolt and position the banjo, put a couple of rubber bands around the grip / lever to apply slight pressure while you do your thing.

 

 

Always thought they were called banjo because they looked like a banjo. :huh2:

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df2,

I experienced nearly the same problems you're having when Spiegler initially sent me the wrong bar.

The problem was it was too flat. Not enough pull back.

They sent me the correct bar with more pullback and it's night & day.

The controls all fit and some room to play.

I still want dual brake lines and a clutch line maybe 2" longer though.

 

As for the brake fittings, just crack the banjo bolt loose and give a spin. Works a treat and nothing spills.

Mind now, just a crack.

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Thanks everyone I'll give it a shot this weekend. Have a couple other issues going on. I really should consolidate my posts. ;-)

 

current issues:

 

1. Broke Speedometer cable (at the spedo)

2. No flashers/signals (I put them together right, I know it)

3. Sticking Starter button.

 

I have solutions for all of them, just need time to do it.

 

But I have been riding with hand signals and I love the new position of the bars. Like night and day. Much better feel and much more nimble in the turns.

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Easy as 1-2-3 once I had enough wrench (length).

 

Thanks, now my mirrors can clear my shoulders as they are now sitting up correctly and the brake and cluctch lines no longer rest on the forks.

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