Throttle synch

[Greybeard]

Yes.

Yes I am looking for a consensus opinion.

 

Excuse me. I did not recall you already said that.

 

Since the bikes are called Moto Guzzi's and not "Ratchethacks" I naturally sought other, perhaps even more experienced answers.

 

This is my first attempt so a simple "yes" would have sufficed.

[Guest ratchethack]

Since the bikes are called Moto Guzzi's and not "Ratchethacks" I naturally sought other, perhaps even more experienced answers.

Take it easy, GB. You asked the same question twice, got my input twice, and got concurring input in between. Most of us (not referring to you, but clearly not all) are here to learn and exchange ideas, that's all.

 

I appreciate you bringing this up, and have benefitted by learning something I didn't know in the process, as openly acknowledged up front and throughout.

[Greybeard]

Oh hell, trust me, I'm here to learn alright!

I'll hang on every word.

I just haven't done well transitioning to the electronic age and it frustrates the beJesus out of me.

Sometimes I need things explained 2-3 different ways before it makes sense.

 

And of course I keep forgetting; The motorcycle she's Italian

 

Keep talking, I'll listen.

All you'll hear is a deep growl of miscomprehension every now & then.

[docc]

There is more than one procedure that includes the RHS set screw. I've done it both ways over these 69,000 miles and find the "defeat" method much simpler and just as reliable.

 

I do use a jam nut on the white knob and, yes, you must be diligent to keep it from moving the knob as it's tightened.

 

FWIW, my white knob rotates on threads, making the rod shorter or longer while the right side of the rod stays soundly anchored with its lock nut. I should have read Ratch's post more closely, but I'm understanding his white knob stays "affixed" and his rod length must be adjusted from the right(?). Good news there is you surely wouldn't need a jam nut on the left!

[Guest ratchethack]

I should have read Ratch's post more closely, but I'm understanding his white knob stays "affixed" and his rod length must be adjusted from the right(?). Good news there is you surely wouldn't need a jam nut on the left!

You read it right, Docc. It's frozen solid. If it ever gets loose, I'll be securing it with JB Weld or a locknut, whichever -- just to ensure it stays in synch.

[Greybeard]

And I owe RH a 1/2 apology.

 

My white knob is NOT moving on the threads as it surely should be!

 

It will be when I get back to it, but right now it's frozen solid as well.

 

This will never do.

 

[docc]

Maybe a little BreakFree CLP or some-such to get the little bugger spinning. A tiny 8mm hex nut secures the knob nicely but keep it secure in the locking process just like you would a valve adjuster.

[raz]

A tiny 8mm hex nut secures the knob nicely but keep it secure in the locking process just like you would a valve adjuster.

Depending on where you have free threads you can put the lock nut on the inside or the outside. I had it on the outside. Regardless of my trying to keep it secure when I locked it, it altered sync significantly because the plastic deformed in some way. I'll try relocating the threads (using RH side) so I can put a lock nut on the inside, that should cause no interference.

 

You gotta love wing nuts on motorcycles

[docc]

Looks like my 2000 Sport is configured a bit differently with the nylon knob on the outside.

[Dan M]

Looks like my 2000 Sport is configured a bit differently with the nylon knob on the outside.

 

 

Same set up on my 02, sans lock nut. I find the nylon thumb wheel stiff on the threads so no lock nut necessary. Perhaps they loosen up with age & adjustment?

[docc]

Hey! Who you callin' aged and out of adjustment?

[Greybeard]

Well, I must have done something correctly as my machine accelerates like a violated simian!

 

Enough to entertain me anyway.

 

Idles nicely, accelerates smoothly, rails & rips as well as can be expected.

 

This winter, when I cure the engine case acne I'll sort out the synch shaft once & for all, check the valves just for the hell of it, fabricate a new cross-over mount as it's vibratin' against the pipes and then find out what the soft "woo-woo-woo-woo" from the rear was when I came down the driveway.

 

Probably just the rear brake.

 

Thanks to all for guidance on this process!