Let's start anew with a TPS question

[Greybeard]

What might explain my TPS reading 382 closed and 4.81 WOT?

Could it have anything to do with the PClll?

 

"No" I'm thinking but ya gotta ask these things.

 

I have not touched the TPS other than to insert the pins to take the readings.

(At first I thought the empty bullet connecters I found next to the ECU were splices to take the TPS reading as I saw in a thread somewhere but when the reading didn't move as I worked the throttle I knew that was wrong)

 

TPS setting seriously buggered or ?

[raz]

Let's put it this way: If your bike runs bad, this may indicate you should try setting the TPS and idle. But if it runs fine, maybe this particular bike need it this low. Some people get bad results when following the How-To. As you now have your current setting noted (you should check your baseline 150 mV reading too, and write it down) you can always go back if you want to try.

 

The WOT reading can't ever actually reach 5 volts. My WOT is about the same.

[Greybeard]

(you should check your baseline 150 mV reading too, and write it down)

 

The 382 was the baseline.

This was on the 2000m scale of my VOM.

[raz]

Sorry, then I agree it's high. What was the idle reading?

 

Are you sure the fast idle cam was not interfering? Even with its cable completely slacked, the cam can interfere with the throttle unless it too is is backed off. I'm not sure how clear that is put in the How-To.

 

Anyway the answer to your PCIII question is no, it should not influence the reading.

[Greybeard]

Thank you!

 

I haven't had a chance to check it at idle.

 

I found two female bullet connectors next to the ECU which I thought were spliced in to the TPS wiring but all I got from that was a static reading of 154 I think it was.

But that reading didn't change as I moved the throttle.

 

I then inserted 2 pins as shown on Greg Bender's site and that's where I got the readings I previously mentioned.

 

I'll see if I can get a reading tomorrow.

 

Thanks again.

[Dan M]

GB, are you saying you measured 382mv with the throttle plates completely closed (both idle stop screws backed off so the plates are seated in the bores)? Or did you check it as set, key on engine off?

[Greybeard]

Hi!

Yes...idle screws backed off, choke cam clear, key on, engine off, throttle connecting shaft free.

[Dan M]

Hi!

Yes...idle screws backed off, choke cam clear, key on, engine off, throttle connecting shaft free.

 

Then yes, seems a bit high. I think you'll find though that the difference between 150mv and 382mv in terms of degrees is pretty small. As Raz said, if it runs OK, leave it alone.

[Greybeard]

Heh....not sure I CAN leave it alone now!

 

Ok, let's see.. I guess really from where it is now, all I need do is balance everything up, "set it and forget it".

 

But, since I do know what the number is now, wouldn't hurt to see what 150mv feels like, would it?

I can always set it back.

[Dan M]

But, since I do know what the number is now, wouldn't hurt to see what 150mv feels like, would it?

I can always set it back.

 

 

Right. Let us know what happens.

[Tom M]

Heh....not sure I CAN leave it alone now!

 

Ok, let's see.. I guess really from where it is now, all I need do is balance everything up, "set it and forget it".

 

But, since I do know what the number is now, wouldn't hurt to see what 150mv feels like, would it?

I can always set it back.

 

In my experience with only my bike setting the idle TPS to about 525-535mV was much more important than the 150mV baseline setting. When I started with the 150 baseline setting I couldn't get the idle setting anywhere near 530, and the bike was way too lean and ran lousy. I posted my problem here and Mr Bean responded with a different approach that the lead mechanic at Moto International uses to set the TPS. Once I used this method my bike ran great even though the baseline TPS is now at 250mV.

 

You can read about it here if you want.

[Greybeard]

In my experience with only my bike setting the idle TPS to about 525-535mV was much more important than the 150mV baseline setting. When I started with the 150 baseline setting I couldn't get the idle setting anywhere near 530, and the bike was way too lean and ran lousy. I posted my problem here and Mr Bean responded with a different approach that the lead mechanic at Moto International uses to set the TPS. Once I used this method my bike ran great even though the baseline TPS is now at 250mV.

 

You can read about it here if you want.

 

This is becoming most curious.

 

I was able to lock in at 151mv closed, but wide open would not go any higher than 480+ a few.

 

It would zero out easily but never saw anywhere near 500.

 

I'll look again to see if anything is in the way but I doubt it.

[Tom M]

This is becoming most curious.

 

I was able to lock in at 151mv closed, but wide open would not go any higher than 480+ a few.

 

It would zero out easily but never saw anywhere near 500.

 

I'll look again to see if anything is in the way but I doubt it.

 

What you are seeing is pretty much what I encountered when I tried to follow the pinned instructions. There was no way I could get both the baseline and the idle TPS readings called for in the instructions here, and I'm definitely not the only person who's had this issue. My bike ran much better when I ignored the 150mV baseline setting and used the Micha method to set my TPS to 530mV at 1150rpm with both bleed screws backed off 1 full turn from closed.

 

You could always try it both ways and please let us know which works better on your bike.

[raz]

I was able to lock in at 151mv closed, but wide open would not go any higher than 480+ a few.

Now I think you confuse 500 mV with 5 V (5000 mV). Because of how most digital volt meters are constructed, your 382 mV will show as up to 0.382 volts, while the higher voltages show as your WOT 4.81 volts. The latter is 4810 mV of course. Tom is talking about a 0.530 volt idle.

[Greybeard]

There are 2 DC scales to read on my admittedly inexpensive meter that are marked 2000m and 200m.

Those are the only 2 that give me any reading seemingly appropriate.

The DC volt scales are 20, 200 and then 2000.

I'm using the correct scale then?

 

 

Anyway, I didn't get a chance to check idle voltage tonight because the battery crapped.

 

I don't think this bike likes me.