20K issues

[waspp]

Ok folks I am nearing 20K on the Rosso Corsa and I have had a few issues over the last few weeks. The rear caliper locked up and so far I haven't got that figured out yet so I stopped using the rear brake until winter repairs begin. Two weeks ago the shift pawl spring broke and luckily I had a replacement so that was repaired post haste. Now this past Sunday after a hard spirited ride with 3 other guys (MZ 1000s Buell CR 1125 and Kaw GPZ repop bike) a fork seal let go in dramatic fashion giving my caliper, disc and wheel a good oiling! So into the garage she goes for some TLC. My question is what else should I look for at this mileage while I am making necessary repairs? Any work that I should do as a preventive measure? I don't think my issues are at all bad, my bike isn't babied and its given me excellent reliability thus far! Still not sure about that rear brake brake either.

 

Thanks

Hal

[mznyc]

Hi Hal,

I'm sure your aware of the failure of the stock Ohlins seals.Seems like a lot of people have replaced theirs because of leaks.Very susceptible to dust getting in there and making the seal fail.Mine was redone by PO with no problems since but I'm about 1500 miles short of yours.Shifting been noticeably knotchy this season,figures to be pawl spring but PO had done that also.

Michael

[Guest ratchethack]

Congrat's Hal. You've finally broken her in.

 

At 20K mi per the MotoMan Break-in Technique ("isn't babied" generally fits), mine had finally fully loosened up. From now on, she's in her prime, which, properly maintained, can be extended over multiple lifetimes of "lesser" moto's.

 

Coupla thoughts on the rear brake thing. It's been discussed extensively on this Forum. If you do a search, I posted a similar lockup -- not mine, Heaven Forfend! -- but a Pal with a '04 LM had the same thing. Others have reported same. It's due to neglect of maintenance. Wot I refer to as The Big 3 will eventually do it every time: 1. Air in the brake fluid 2. absorbed water in the brake fluid, and 3. accumulation of brake dust and road crud over the seals in the groove between piston and caliper due to the "frontbottom" (hi, Pete) location of the caliper.

 

Here's a post on the locking rear brake scenario from 2 years ago:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=124574

 

WRT fork seal failure, wot Michael said above on Ohlins, which are usually good for an average of 6K mi, according to many hereabouts. I'm increasingly convinced that without seal failure, most forks would never get their fork oil (or cartridge fork fluid, whichever) changed a-tall. Unless already done, it's well past time for a complete fork strip, clean & air gap setting anyway. Might do a fork spring upgrade while you're at it. They're not all that expensive and can transform the handling in a very positive direction (depending on your circumstances, of course). Many threads on this also.

 

Preventive stuff? If you've not changed your brake fluid or cleaned your calipers lately, you're well overdue here, which might suggest you're well overdue elsewhere. I've found the factory service schedule to be a fairly reasonable guide, and I stick to it. But o' course, that's just me. Others on this board consider such behavior "anal". Many of these don't own a copy of a service schedule, and seem to consider the concept of a maintenance schedule unnecessary, if not punitive. . . eventually, they all wash up here whining about long down-time waiting for parts, and expensive repairs. Ah, but to each his own, eh?

 

Have fun. Hope this helps.

[dlaing]

I am at about 24,000 miles on my Ohlins Forks. I clean the fork sliding surface with silicone oil pretty regularly and I set my oil level kind of low to help reduce pressure at the fork seal. Also I use genuine Ohlins fluid. Not sure it has helped, maybe I am just lucky.

Since you apparently went 20,000, you apparently are doing more than three times better than the alleged average Ohlins fork owner.

I have no doubt they are more failure prone than the Marzocchi, but I highly doubt they average 6,000 miles between failures.

Perhaps we need a poll

So far the three posters who own Ohlins forks have gone:

18,500 with no failure, but previous owner replaced, so presumably there was a failure 18,500 ago, or sometime within that 18,500

20,000 failure

24,000 no failure

 

Front cross-over is known to crack on your bike. Proper tightening should reduce the chance of that happening.

[Greg Field]

We sell Aprilias and Guzzis, so we see a lot of Ohlins (standard on RSVs). Those that are ridden regularly often go 15,000-20,000 miles before needing seals. Those that aren't ridden regularly often need re-sealing in 6,000-8,000 miles. Mine lasted 18,000 or so.

 

Check for sufficient freeplay on the rear brake rod.

[gstallons]

Ok folks I am nearing 20K on the Rosso Corsa and I have had a few issues over the last few weeks. The rear caliper locked up and so far I haven't got that figured out yet so I stopped using the rear brake until winter repairs begin. Two weeks ago the shift pawl spring broke and luckily I had a replacement so that was repaired post haste. Now this past Sunday after a hard spirited ride with 3 other guys (MZ 1000s Buell CR 1125 and Kaw GPZ repop bike) a fork seal let go in dramatic fashion giving my caliper, disc and wheel a good oiling! So into the garage she goes for some TLC. My question is what else should I look for at this mileage while I am making necessary repairs? Any work that I should do as a preventive measure? I don't think my issues are at all bad, my bike isn't babied and its given me excellent reliability thus far! Still not sure about that rear brake brake either.

 

Thanks

Hal

 

 

In regards to the rear brake. make sure the push rod is adjusted properly before doing anything.This will insure the m/cyl. will release pressure after releasing the pedal.To verify caliper,hose or master cylinder place the bike on a center stand.#1 press the rear brake pedal a few times to pump up the rear brake.If the rear wheel will not turn,break the bleeder screw (w/out the dust cap) loose and retighten bleeder screw.#2 If the brake stil holds then the caliper is at fault. If the wheel turns freely the problem is the brake hose or m/cylinder. #3 To test them, pump the brkes again to lock rear wheel. Then loosen the banjo bolt holding the brake hose to the m/cylinder. If the rear brake is still tight, the hose is at fault. If it (the rear brakes) losens the m/cyl. is bad.

[Guest ratchethack]

Front cross-over is known to crack on your bike. Proper tightening should reduce the chance of that happening.

I b'lieve this^ would be a Forum first. The front crossovers are, however, notorious for going loose at their joints, leaking, and banging on the alternator cover. Many remedies have been tried. To my knowledge none have ever succeeded long-term. The headers themselves have been known to crack. My Pal with '04 LM and his Guzzi dealer tried all the known crossover seal remedies and had his header cracks welded many times before he finally removed the crossover and had the header "spigots" welded shut, which finally brought his long, agonizing, and expen$ive ordeal to an end.

 

Todd E. at GuzziTech came up with heavy gauge stainless replacement headers specifically in response to the OE header cracking problem.

 

See link here: http://www.guzzitech.com/store/GT-R-Hdrs.html

 

According to Todd, who may well have logged more dyno time with V11's than anyone on the planet in developing the PCIII for the V11 at Dynotech, there is NOTHING that shows up on the dyno that justifies the front crossover, and no perceptible downside (nor upside) to removing it, despite Guzzi's slightly altered valve overlap that went along with its introduction, evidently chasing lower emissions. IMHO the front crossover was an all-around disaster best eliminated at first hint of trouble -- but o' course, that's just me. Thankfully, my Guzzi was't cursed with one.

 

Hope this helps, (Part II)

[Greg Field]

My RH header cracked right by the exhaust port. Had nothing to do with the crossover. And I've never had any trouble getting the crossover to seal. YMMV.

[waspp]

I haven't experienced any problems with the front crossover, I did several years ago buy a set of stainless sealing washers ?? to replace the stock cloth type so far so good. Good to know my seal failure is in line with others so I will renew both forks over the winter.

 

That rear brake issue has me puzzled a bit as I have sought to figure out just what is up so I will examine it further thanks for the tips. The locking caliper has happened twice with a long interval of good use in between The rod in the mc had adequate play and the fluids have been changed regularly. Can these calipers be rebuilt? Somewhere I think I read they couldn't be rehabed.

[Guest ratchethack]

Can these calipers be rebuilt? Somewhere I think I read they couldn't be rehabed.

They could be rebuilt -- if you could source the right seals. BIG IF.

 

If you try to source parts on your own, you're in for an "education" the likes o' which you might not appreciate. . .

 

If you've croaked the seals in the aforementioned heat/drag cycle lockups, a new caliper from Yoyodyne might be the way to go. By my experience, the guys at Yoyodyne are both knowledgeable and all around competent.

 

Here's A LOT of good info that can get you up on the learning curve very quickly from 2 yrs. ago:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...yodyne&st=0

 

Hope this helps (Part III).

[waspp]

Thanks man! Thats good stuff

[dlaing]

I am at about 24,000 miles on my Ohlins Forks. I clean the fork sliding surface with silicone oil pretty regularly and I set my oil level kind of low to help reduce pressure at the fork seal. Also I use genuine Ohlins fluid. Not sure it has helped, maybe I am just lucky.

Since you apparently went 20,000, you apparently are doing more than three times better than the alleged average Ohlins fork owner.

I have no doubt they are more failure prone than the Marzocchi, but I highly doubt they average 6,000 miles between failures.

Perhaps we need a poll

So far the three posters who own Ohlins forks have gone:

18,500 with no failure, but previous owner replaced, so presumably there was a failure 18,500 ago, or sometime within that 18,500

20,000 failure

24,000 no failure

 

Front cross-over is known to crack on your bike. Proper tightening should reduce the chance of that happening.

Oh Crud! I spoke too soon. The left seal gave out this weekend.

Ohlins suck! but they are still the best

Oh well, I guess it is time for firmer springs and fresh fluid.