SPEED PER 1000 RPM

[ponti_33609]

How long has it been doing this? You could try lubing it, per above. It might not be too late.

 

 

 

It has done it the 2.5 years I have owned her and tried lubing but obviously did not do it well enough....will try again! Thx!!

[Guest ratchethack]

It has done it the 2.5 years I have owned her and tried lubing but obviously did not do it well enough....will try again! Thx!!

The V11 speedo cable designs vary, Bob. But if yours is like mine (same year, same model) you can pull out the inner cable from the instrument end for a quick inspection and lube. If dry and corroded, I'd suggest pre-emptive replacement (generally not expensive). You can take it to your local speedo shop, per my post above, and have a new one made up to match. You can pay the man now, or you can pay the man later. ADVANTAGE of doing it now -- you control the "when" part on the "max uptime" plan.

[ponti_33609]

local speedo shop

lol...they have these?

 

What is gear box lube......sorry but I am the "hack" here . I used wd40 last time and didn't really do anything.

 

Bob

[gstallons]

Hypoid gear lube= what goes in the rear ends and transmision. 75-90,85-90,85-140, 90-140 and more. WD-40 is good for something,anything long term it is not good.

[ponti_33609]

Hypoid gear lube= what goes in the rear ends and transmision. 75-90,85-90,85-140, 90-140 and more.

 

I HAVE THIS STUFF!

 

Thx!

 

Bob

[Guest ratchethack]

lol...they have these?

 

What is gear box lube......sorry but I am the "hack" here . I used wd40 last time and didn't really do anything.

 

Bob

EGADS, Bob!

 

Contrary to popular delusion, WD-40 IS NOT a magical cure-all elixir. In reality, it's basically Stoddard solvent - (cleaning fluid) with a dash of penetrating oil in it. (See numerous WD-40 rants over the years by Yours Truly.)

 

Per Gene's post, a proper gearbox lube is essential in the gearbox, but there are lots of alternatives that are far better than cleaning fluid for cable lube! I like Redline Shockproof Heavy in my gearbox and on the speedo cable. It's one of the better full synthetics, IMHO.

 

EDIT: FWIW - Here's one o' my many WD-40 rants from 3 years back:

 

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...st&p=103847

[ponti_33609]

Yes - I thought better before I sprayed my speedo cable with wd-40 that I really wasn't doing anything.....remember, I said I was the hack here! But I am learning. Shockproof is on my list for my next change this spring and I understand no need for the moly with that stuff too.....hopefully I understood that correct! Will lube my cable with my 80-90 that I had left over from my last change.

 

Bob

[Guest ratchethack]

Shockproof is on my list for my next change this spring and I understand no need for the moly with that stuff too.....hopefully I understood that correct!

Da, Komrade. No need for adding moly to any Group 5 ester base stock synth. in the bevel drive. (See numerous posts full o' foolishness and folderol on moly and "synthetic moly"). You will find that people believe almost anything, and will not be convinced otherwise -- despite well-sourced FACTS -- including what they foolishly dream up after mistakenly attempting to reverse engineer from a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) without the faintest clue about fundamentals of organic chemistry , also including such wonders as the idea that "synthetic moly" is interchangeable with strawberry douche -- not to mention floor wax, and dessert topping.

 

Or, when in doubt, (understandable!) call Dave toll free in the Tech Dept. at Red Line WW HQ, right here in sunny California (Benicia). Dave's very knowledgeable on correct applications, and always willing to help. Ask him specifically about the need for adding moly to RLSH in Guzzi bevel drives. (800) 624-7958

 

But o' course, some will add it anyway, and waddaygonna do? It won't help, but at least it won't hurt anything.

[dlaing]

Da, Komrade. No need for adding moly to any Group 5 ester base stock synth. in the bevel drive. (See numerous posts full o' foolishness and folderol on moly and "synthetic moly"). You will find that people believe almost anything, and will not be convinced otherwise -- despite well-sourced FACTS -- including what they foolishly dream up after mistakenly attempting to reverse engineer from a MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) without the faintest clue about fundamentals of organic chemistry , also including such wonders as the idea that "synthetic moly" is interchangeable with strawberry douche -- not to mention floor wax, and dessert topping.

 

Or, when in doubt, (understandable!) call Dave toll free in the Tech Dept. at Red Line WW HQ, right here in sunny California (Benicia). Dave's very knowledgeable on correct applications, and always willing to help. Ask him specifically about the need for adding moly to RLSH in Guzzi bevel drives. (800) 624-7958

 

But o' course, some will add it anyway, and waddaygonna do? It won't help, but at least it won't hurt anything.

Don't listen to the misinformation from this Dave guy that according to Ratchet says you never need to change your gear oil if you use Redline Shockproof.

Redline Shockproof is not a magic potion that lasts a forever.

It is a top quality synthetic oil with additives such as calcium and moly in it, despite Ratchet's protests.

If you use it in your gearbox, change it every year or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first, or sooner if shifting quality degrades.

Of course if you use it in your cable, yes it may keep working working 20 years from now, so you may never need to "change" that oil, just add a little every year or two.

[Guest ratchethack]

Don't listen to the misinformation from this Dave guy that according to Ratchet says you never need to change your gear oil if you use Redline Shockproof.

Redline Shockproof is not a magic potion that lasts a forever.

It is a top quality synthetic oil with additives such as calcium and moly in it, despite Ratchet's protests.

If you use it in your gearbox, change it every year or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first, or sooner if shifting quality degrades.

Of course if you use it in your cable, yes it may keep working working 20 years from now, so you may never need to "change" that oil, just add a little every year or two.

. . .[sigh]. . .

 

Misinformation indeed.

 

First off, despite popular delusions to the contrary, it's improbable to the point of impossible that degradation of any proper application of any current leading gearbox lube (as recommended by the lube mfgr.) in a V11 gearbox would ever get anywhear near the point that it would exhibit shifting problems. Assuming the pawl adjuster is kept in correct adjustment and nothing else gets bent out of shape from abuse, gear teeth wear will accelerate and bearings will get loose long before shifting problems begin. Constantmesh boxes with straight-cut gearsets, as on all V11's, have entirely different lube requirements than synchromesh boxes, therefore the lube mfgr's recommend entirely different products. Today's synth. lubes extend working life many times beyond the recommended dino replacement interval in the Guzzi service schedule, according to many Pro's, including Redline, and the world famous tribologist, Molakule on the BITOG Forum (ref'd several times previously by Yours Truly on this Forum).

 

I can personally vouch for a 110K+ mile working life for Redline MTL in a 5-speed synchro transaxle (under hard use), and 80K in a 5-speed synchro gearbox (also fairly hard use). The first example was analyzed at 50K and at 90K, and showed not enough significant breakdown for replacement. No dino I know of would have lasted anywhere near half that long.

 

Now you can believe anyone you want to believe about anything you want and everybody's got their own OPINION. But trusting the word of the mfgr., who puts his reputation on the line day after day, year after year, might be a better call than trusting the word of someone who has no idea what they're doing, no basis for any recommendation, and who (by his own posts), being woefully misinformed and/or careless, mistakenly installs this:

 

 

Instead of this, which is the mfgr's. recommendation for the V11 gearbox and bevel box, in all seasons in all temperate climates.:

 

 

-- And then complains on this Forum about the mfgr. as a provider of shabby products, and next installs dino, before finally installing Redline's recommended product. This behavior, of course, is neither well informed, well advised, -- or all that bright -- but waddayagonna do when they believe their folly is wisdom, and habitually make conscious choices to obscure and cover up the difference?

 

And whoyagonna call?

 

May I (again) suggest:

 

Dave, Tech Dept., Redline WW HQ, toll free: (800) 624-7958, 9-5 PDT.

 

FWIW: As noted previously, I've been doing gearbox and bevel box lube replacement every 2 years on the Guzzi -- not because I distrust the mfgr's recommendation of "no replacement interval", but just because, as a general principle, I want to err on the near side of lots of service on the Guzzi -- and that's just me. But it wouldn't bother me to go 5 years, 10 years, or even longer with gearbox and bevel box lube replacement with Redline Shockproof Heavy, since I have both a 25-year track record of knowlege based on personal use behind the lube mfgr's products, and an earthbound foundation of knowledge of petrochemistry (Bachelor of Science, Biochem), and I actually like to research this stuff pretty carefully. But o' course, that's just me (Part II).

 

NOTE, RE: My several previous recommendations not to trust me, but to call Dave at Redline:

 

I'm reluctantly somewhat forced here (gag, choke) to be reminded of this:

 

Someday I'll have to give this guy a call.

If you read their documentation, we should be using the standard Redline gear oil

. . .I have no doubt about the shockproof heavy being fine for tropical climates.

Mine leaked...I was using Redline Shockproof Light.

I think there is a difference in performance between standard GL5 synthetic and the same with added moly.

. . .It could be bull, but I believe it. I can't prove that if you added moly to the regular redline synthetic it would perform as well as the redline shockproof, but I suspect it would be similar performance.

 

. . . . . .

[dlaing]

Who said Redline made shabby products? not me.

True I tried shockproof light, as that was apparently the product that best matched the Guzzi recommendation, and it worked great.

I only switched back to dino to try to slow the leaking, but that did not help.

I switched to heavy and found it shifted more smoothly when hot, then the shockproof light, but when cold the light is a little easier to shift.

The reason Ratchet sites for changing the shockproof is because Keith Richards changes his blood once a year. Smart logic.

I'd love to see Ratchet go 20,000 miles with it in the V11, change the oil and swear there is no improvement in the shifting.

The reason I change, is because shifting gets noticeably better, and because the buildup of water and metal in the oil can't be good for the gearbox.

Or maybe I just change it because I have money to burn and the fresh strawberry color in the window is beautiful

[dlaing]

"Red Line ShockProof Racing Gear Oil

Red Line ShockProof Gear Oil is recommended for heavily-loaded racing differentials and transmissions. ShockProof contains a unique solid dispersion to cushion components, protecting gear teeth from breakage and reducing dog ring wear.

 

Heavy (Red) can be rated as a 75W250 gear oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of much lighter 75W90 oil. Recommended for very high horsepower applications such as GT-1 and Trans-Am.

 

Light (Blue-Green) can be rated as a 75W140 gear oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of an SAE 30 motor oil. Recommended for medium horsepower applications such as Production classes and FF2000 / S2000.

 

SuperLight (Yellow) can be rated as a 75W90 gear oil, but has the lower internal fluid friction of ATF. Recommended for lower horsepower applications such as Formula Vee and FF1600.

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/group.asp...ID=REDGEARSHOCK

Yep, V11 is very high hp, LOL!

And Guzzi specs SAE W/90 (probably Agip MG/S 85W90) which sounds a lot more like 75W140 then 75W250....You do the math, but I do admit it generally shifts better with the heavy.

[dlaing]

Drain Times

Shockproof time limit or safe period is determined by oil analysis of wear & metal content.

 

As a rule of thumb, you may conservatively expect oil changeout to be a minimum of three times the life of mineral oil.

(Mineral oil life expectancy often changes depending on the loads the mineral oil is put under. Red Line will go a minimum of approx. 3 times this.)

SNIP

Oil Sample Periods

Testing is recommended at approximately every 100,000 kms, unless an area of concern is identified for which more frequent testing may be required.

 

http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads/Downl...ndy%20Hints.doc

 

I suspect it is cheaper to replace it then to analyze it.

I would have no problem running a car transmission 100,000 kms on the shockproof, but not a V11.

Maybe some V11 transmissions will run fine past 100,000 kms, but I notice a difference after less than 10,000 kms change intervals.

Guzzi recommends changing every 10,000 kms and they spec AGIP synthetic, which is not shabby lube.

Is Guzzi just trying to make money on Service? I don't think so.