Guest captain nemo Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 I'm putting MGNA on my list of favorite conspiracy theories. I am beginning to believe that it is controlled by Honda.
docc Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 [QWhat's the best way to remove black anodizing, chemically or really fine sandpaper (crocus cloth)? Seems like crocus cloth would take forever. Probably better to start with 400 grit then 600 , 1500, semichrome then wax. Or stop at some point and take them to your powder coater. ( They were polished aluminum in the beginning, yes?)
Guest max Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 http://bluelightning.zoovy.com/product/ADGL found this link where is the cheap source for ohlins? The upper and lower triple clamp are not same size as mine
Paul Minnaert Posted November 7, 2003 Posted November 7, 2003 The nice thing is that these are forks that are the same size as standard. You can't buy them in a normal shop. Ohlins doesn't have aftermarket forks for guzzi.
jrt Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 What's the best way to remove black anodizing, chemically or really fine sandpaper (crocus cloth)? The anodizing process really hardens the surface- you'd be sanding awhile. The black is a dye- sometimes organic, more usually inorganic. The best- easiest, quickest way to remove the anodized surface (and the dye) is to soak the part in an alkali (sodium or potasium hydroxide = lye) bath. Careful! Strong base dissolves aluminum quickly- you probably only need to soak the part for an hour or so. More careful! Strong base will eat your flesh and you won't feel a thing at the time. If you come in contact with base, then you will get a 'slippery' feeling on your skin. Wash with lots and lots of water. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves. Mix up a few tablespoons of lye (drain cleaner) per gallon of water. Clean the part, then immerse in the solution. The process is slow at first because of the hard anodization (Aluminum oxide isn't very reactive). Soon, you will see some bubbles form (hydrogen gas), and some smut at the water surface. You can help the process along by taking the part out and wiping it off every 5-10 minutes. Wear gloves. You can buy 'de-anodizer' from an anodizing supply house. It will work better than lye. Lye continues to attack raw aluminum, the anodize stripper isn't supposed to do that. The stripper is also supposed to work faster. One can check for anodized aluminum (or the lack therof) by reading resistance. Anodized aluminum has a high resistivity- an ohm-meter connected across an anodized piece will read an open circuit. Raw aluminum will, of course, read a dead short. Hope that helps- I'm setting up an anodization tank for small parts so I've been reading up on it. Caswell plating (http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html) probably has stripper. Cheers, Jason
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