NakedV Posted February 24, 2010 Posted February 24, 2010 Hi All. Some time ago I read a thread with pictures that dealt with changing the dreaded gearbox pawl spring and the over size boss. I've not got a problem with my bike but want to read the method used with engine in the frame (be prepared and all that). Did a search last night but can't find it. Regards all. Mick.
Tom M Posted February 24, 2010 Posted February 24, 2010 Use the links at the bottom of Belfastguzzis post for lots of pics and a good description of the replacement procedure. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2905&hl=
NakedV Posted February 24, 2010 Author Posted February 24, 2010 Use the links at the bottom of Belfastguzzis post for lots of pics and a good description of the replacement procedure. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2905&hl= Cheers Tom. That's the one I was looking for.
belfastguzzi Posted February 24, 2010 Posted February 24, 2010 The main thread was this one: 1) here Then the roadside repair one, as above, is: 2) here 3) and actual roadside job is here and the original sequence of photos is at: 4) Belfastguzzi pawl spring page 1 and 5) Belfastguzzi pawl spring page 2
docc Posted February 25, 2010 Posted February 25, 2010 Interesting to note both the replies came from forum members with 2002 V11s. My 2000 had a spring failure, but with a replacement 2002 gearbox. One could hope your 2001 won't be so afflicted!
grossohc Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 Just took off the cover to change my spring, I am thinking i have a extra part . there is a single plate connecting both selector shafts (under the circlips) and the plate is also connected to the gearchange lever pin (no.20 on drawing C7) but this part and screw are not on the drawing. Looking at BFG,s side cover photo you would normally just remove the circlips, remove the selectors to access the spring!!!!. Anyway the screw is tight as F**k should i remove the nut on the outside of the casing or bash the sh*t out of it with a impact driver and a suitably heavy hammer or think about it in the pub for a while. Gary
HaydnR Posted March 21, 2010 Posted March 21, 2010 Just took off the cover to change my spring, I am thinking i have a extra part . there is a single plate connecting both selector shafts (under the circlips) and the plate is also connected to the gearchange lever pin (no.20 on drawing C7) but this part and screw are not on the drawing. Looking at BFG,s side cover photo you would normally just remove the circlips, remove the selectors to access the spring!!!!. Anyway the screw is tight as F**k should i remove the nut on the outside of the casing or bash the sh*t out of it with a impact driver and a suitably heavy hammer or think about it in the pub for a while. Gary Gary I just looked at the cafe sport/ ballabio at stein dinse part diagram at stein dinse and teo lamers and it shows the extra part that you speak of which looks like a modification on the later box. I would still go to the pub. Haydn
grossohc Posted March 22, 2010 Posted March 22, 2010 Gary I just looked at the cafe sport/ ballabio at stein dinse part diagram at stein dinse and teo lamers and it shows the extra part that you speak of which looks like a modification on the later box. I would still go to the pub. Haydn Thanks for the reply and info Haydn. I will have a go at it this morning once i have got the shock proof heavy oil drips off the carpet
belfastguzzi Posted August 8, 2010 Posted August 8, 2010 Just took off the cover to change my spring, I am thinking i have a extra part . there is a single plate connecting both selector shafts (under the circlips) and the plate is also connected to the gearchange lever pin (no.20 on drawing C7) but this part and screw are not on the drawing. Looking at BFG,s side cover photo you would normally just remove the circlips, remove the selectors to access the spring!!!!. Anyway the screw is tight as F**k should i remove the nut on the outside of the casing or bash the sh*t out of it with a impact driver and a suitably heavy hammer or think about it in the pub for a while. Gary Gary where is the photo of this part that you posted? I've been searching and can't see it. D
grossohc Posted August 9, 2010 Posted August 9, 2010 where is the photo of this part that you posted? I've been searching and can't see it. D I havent posted it , away working right now but will post when i get back.C:\Documents and Settings\gary\Desktop\v11\P1010078.JPG
mznyc Posted August 20, 2010 Posted August 20, 2010 Why did mine look like this when I opened it up? No fluid on gears like Gary's,fluid was in window before I changed it,..
Tom M Posted August 20, 2010 Posted August 20, 2010 Why did mine look like this when I opened it up? No fluid on gears like Gary's,fluid was in window before I changed it,.. He used Redline Shockproof Heavy. It really sticks to everything.
belfastguzzi Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 Why did mine look like this when I opened it up? There are at least three different versions of the 'inside bits', which is why I was interested to see Gary's interesting find. Some of us have got the racing box Gary has the heavy duty, reinforced, touring & ploughing box.
belfastguzzi Posted August 25, 2010 Posted August 25, 2010 I wonder why they thought there was a need to introduce this extra part? Could there be any connection with the bad shifting that some have experienced, with the box inexplicably sticking in gear and refusing to change? Reports of this often linked the sticking box to it being hot. Back when this was discussed, no reason could be seen or found: I don't know if there has been any more about this in recent times. I had such bad trouble with this phenomenon, with the bike sticking resolutely in 2nd gear, that on a trip I disassembled the cover and change mech, thinking that the spring must have broken - but it was fine. What was the problem that led Luigi Guzzi to add the plate / brace... or did it just happen one day, with neither reason nor logic?
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