torque settings

[docc]

docc, your first post stated 88.5 housing side I thaught that was the correct way to

torque the bolt.I replaced the wheel bearings @ 15,000 miles I think the left bearing

was the one that went bad all rusted. Looks to me if bike is put away wet on the kick stand

the water will go to that side and ruin the bearing.

 

 

No question, you've done it the right way. I don't know that anyone has ever checked the difference torquing from the off side.

 

Interesting theory on the water running downhill to the left bearing. But, can water get to the bearings inside the wheel? I don't know. Most every one has alleged that the 'sealed' bearing don't come with much grease in them from the factory.

 

It is true, G2G, about the locking nut and probably wouldn't walk off. I would still be nervous about only using 1/4 the torque. Definitely not something I want on my mind at 150 kph.

 

And I forget now what the opinions were about the short spacers. Mine checked out ok as well, but apparently some were a little short allowing a lateral stress on the bearing.

[gstallons]

For everyone's benefit ; can anyone state the proper spacer length ? Also, the incorrect spacer length was?

Also,the 30 lb. figure was just number.I didn't recommend tightneing it any less than factory recommendations. I was trying to state that any (reasonable) torque is not going to be a factor on the side (pulling together or pushing apart) load of any roller bearing.

[docc]

For everyone's benefit ; can anyone state the proper spacer length ? Also, the incorrect spacer length was?

Also,the 30 lb. figure was just number.I didn't recommend tightneing it any less than factory recommendations. I was trying to state that any (reasonable) torque is not going to be a factor on the side (pulling together or pushing apart) load of any roller bearing.

 

Here's one of the more coherent posts on bearing load from Pete Roper: Rear Wheel Woes 22 July 2005

 

And a thread on the spacer length and bearing failure by Baldini: Hot Rear End 27 July 2003

[The Monkey]

This process has been whipped into a lather already with spacer lengths quoted etc. Spend some time searching the site and you should come up with some good solutions. Personally my rear spacer was shy by .048", enough to guarantee the early demise of the bearing from the resulting side load. Correct length of the spacer is the distance between the bearing registers in the rear wheel. I just had a shop turn a steel spacer matching the register distance exactly, I chose an adequate scantling to eliminate the worry of crush. The nut that holds all our wheel spindles in place is just a nylock nut, being such it should be replaced each time it comes off (course no one does this) so heave ho on that spindle nut! Or slightly less heave and a lock washer. Did someone offer a beer?

[docc]

This process has been whipped into a lather already with spacer lengths quoted etc. Spend some time searching the site and you should come up with some good solutions. Personally my rear spacer was shy by .048", enough to guarantee the early demise of the bearing from the resulting side load. Correct length of the spacer is the distance between the bearing registers in the rear wheel. I just had a shop turn a steel spacer matching the register distance exactly, I chose an adequate scantling to eliminate the worry of crush. The nut that holds all our wheel spindles in place is just a nylock nut, being such it should be replaced each time it comes off (course no one does this) so heave ho on that spindle nut! Or slightly less heave and a lock washer. Did someone offer a beer?

 

Beer But try to keep the Little Nipples a secret . . .

[ponti_33609]

WOW!!! Last year when I changed tires I asked a similar question regarding torque of the rear wheel.

 

The most technical advice I received was "tighten it till you fart"! Guess that was accurate as well cause the tire is still on there.

 

Bob