New '02 Scura owner/couple questions

[Pianotech]

Hi all,

I recently picked an '02 V11 Scura with 4100 miles on it. My current ride is an '08 S4RS Tri Colore Ducati, and my wife is on an '07 1098S. The Guzzi is definitely a "different" ride, but nonetheless a blast to run around on. This forum has been outstanding in practical information on maintaining this bike (I have already stripped and repainted the engine block bubbling paint...it was a pain, buit it looks like new now. Thanks to all that contributed to those threads!). The Exhaust was removed and polished, and all the fluids have been changed. I have more plans for some mods (bar end mirrors are going on soon... I stole the old mirrors from my Monster and stuck them on the Scura for now).

I would like to know if anyone has suggestions on obtaining Carbon Fiber components for this bike. I am specifically looking for a CF piece to replace the stock rear seat cowling which is a bit dinged up. And, if there is a good place to order online or otherwise stock pieces for the bike (Air filters, oil fliters, cv boots, fuel filters, etc.) suggestions would be appreciated. It seems the "Guzzi World" is a bit lacking in aftermarket parts and suppliers! Even the dealerships seem a bit foggy to me. If any of these questions are redundant, forgive me... I try using the "search" feature on this forum, but it leaves a lot to be desired. Thanks for any and all the help!

 

Franco

2002 V11 Scura

L.A. CA

[drewscura]

Funny, I'm in the market for an S4RS after totaling my Scura. I kept my Scura to build later. I'm going to replace/upgrade as I go along while obtaining the S4RS to ride in the time being.

 

I can't help you much on the maintenance items other than to tell you that www.mgcycle.com is the best. And while doing my routine search for potential Guzzi purchases on Ebay. I found a carbon seat cowl, since mine was damaged in accident. Of course, It's not there now since I'm trying to point it out to someone, but that's the way it works with these bikes. You can find everything ever made for a V11 on the internet in about an hour, and you can spend a lifetime finding new things for a Monster.

 

Welcome to the club. Read the site and have patience. These bikes are even better when you work all the bugs out.

 

I'll be getting rid of some undamaged stock pieces. So let me know if you need some parts

[tikkanen]

Ciao Franco :-)

 

Check out this link: My link

 

He may still have something on the shelf; alternatively he can guide you in the right direction.

 

And a mighty fine Scura you have!

 

Cheers

Søren

[GuzziMoto]

Of the top of my head, out west two dealerships come to mind. Moto Internationl and Sport Cycle Pacific. There are others in other parts of the country but those are the two that come to mind out west. MPH is also well known but I have no experience with them personally. Then there is Todd at GuzziTech. Not a dealer but definitely a guy who caters to Guzzi's.

There is certainly not the amount of stuff available for Guzzi's as there is for Ducati's.

[Pianotech]

Thanks all for the welcome and suggestions. mgcycle is sending out my first order of parts... the guy is pretty knowledgeable about the bikes which does help a lot. My Ducati dealer (Proitalia) just welcomed Moto Guzzi back on board a few weeks ago, but they will not be servicing the bikes until they tool up and do some training seminars for the techs there. To their credit,they would not make a service appointment for the bike until they are ready to work on them efficiently. Seems as though I can do most of the work myself apart from major engine work. This bike is so basic front to back I am not afraid to try most projects.... My ducs on the other hand are a bit more complicated!

Reading through the site I was able to make my own filter cover removal tool, and MG is sending me new oil filters and socket. I wanted to order a fuel filter, but it looks like I need to check what is in the bike first... The bike may or may not have come with a threaded-end filter. My next cosmetic project will be to fit some slimline Ducati LED turn signals front and rear. They are tiny, but super, super bright. You can see them a mile away easy! Not at all like most of the aftermarket cheap stuff. Thanks again for the help and encouragement.

 

Franco

2002 V11 Scura

L.A. CA

[docc]

Hi, Franco!

 

I think you'll find your fuel filter is nothing "special," but has simple clamps on slip on fuel line. I use the WIX 33310 which is for the Isuzu Trooper, is fully welded and typically made in Israel. It is just slightly shorter than the original Weber and might benefit from a longer inlet line.

 

There is this FAQ on the oil filter alternatives as well as some concerns, and solutions, for their wobbling off while running.

[pete roper]

No amount of carbon fibre will make up for the fact that unless it has already been done it will be horribly under-sprung. Spend money on the superb forks and shocks before wasting it on CF.

 

Pete

[Woody V11]

No amount of carbon fibre will make up for the fact that unless it has already been done it will be horribly under-sprung. Spend money on the superb forks and shocks before wasting it on CF.

 

Pete

 

I agree with Pete on this fact...just picked up my Scura to this year and had a Rosso before that. The forks and shocks are way under sprung and I am only around 200 lbs. I just purchased front and rear Ohlins for my BMW R1100RS and what a difference to have them sprung properly. Will be sending them the parts from the Scura to update next.

 

Welcome to the world of Guzzi......what is everyone using to polish the titanium cans?

[moscowphil]

On the under-sprung front end issue you can make a big difference by raising the oil level in the legs a few mm. The Ohlins incorporate an air spring to provide rising rate characteristics, and increasing the oil level, thereby decreasing the volume of air above it, increases the amount of rising rate. From memory I raised the oil level in mine by 10mm, which was enough to make quite a difference in terms of preventing diving under braking. You can download a manual for the forks from the Ohlins web site that tells you how to do it, and includes a nice graph showing the effect of different oil levels on the spring characteristics.

Personally I don't find the back end under-sprung at all. In fact, given that the roads round here are more suited to off-roaders, it's a bit too firm if anything.

[GuzziMoto]

On the under-sprung front end issue you can make a big difference by raising the oil level in the legs a few mm. The Ohlins incorporate an air spring to provide rising rate characteristics, and increasing the oil level, thereby decreasing the volume of air above it, increases the amount of rising rate. From memory I raised the oil level in mine by 10mm, which was enough to make quite a difference in terms of preventing diving under braking. You can download a manual for the forks from the Ohlins web site that tells you how to do it, and includes a nice graph showing the effect of different oil levels on the spring characteristics.

Personally I don't find the back end under-sprung at all. In fact, given that the roads round here are more suited to off-roaders, it's a bit too firm if anything.

Raising the oil level increases the pressure on the seals. Done in moderation it may not shorten the life of the seals too much. I prefer using springs to do the work of springs. And just about every telescopic front end on a motorcycle has the issue with air space above the fluid. Dirt bikes often have air bleeds to get ride of excess air pressure. That is why it is important that you set the fluid height correctly. 10mm more fluid is more then I would add above factory recommendations and may prevent the forks from using full travel, but to each their own. One problem with using air as a spring is that is is not just progressive but increases exponentially(wrong word, but I hope you get the point). The rate increases rapidly and with such a small volume as you have in a fork tube it can be difficult to control. As for the rear spring, a ride that feels stiff does not always mean the spring is stiff. It can also be that the spring is too soft and the suspension keeps bottoming, or the compression dampening is too much. Adjusting your free sag (unladen sag) and your race sag (laden sag) is the best way to determine if the spring is too soft or too hard or just right. How the bike "feels" can be misleading. If you are in the 150lb range the stock springs may be fine for you. Above 175 lbs you should consider stiffer springs in my opinion.

[docc]

At this rate, it looks like I'll be needing stiffer springs every three or four years . . .

[macguzzi]

Are you on the SCURA REGISTER yet

[Pianotech]

 

 

 

Welcome to the world of Guzzi......what is everyone using to polish the titanium cans?

 

Here is what I used to polish the exhaust system... this is some of the best metal polish we use in the piano business (and it works great on motorcycles too!) Master Formula Metal Gloss (Fullerton,CA (714)238-1129) Non abrasive and leaves a great shine. The Macallan is for after your done.

 

Franco

2002 V11 Scura

L.A. CA

 

BTW, what is the SCURA REGISTER?

[moscowphil]

Raising the oil level increases the pressure on the seals. Done in moderation it may not shorten the life of the seals too much. I prefer using springs to do the work of springs. And just about every telescopic front end on a motorcycle has the issue with air space above the fluid. Dirt bikes often have air bleeds to get ride of excess air pressure. That is why it is important that you set the fluid height correctly. 10mm more fluid is more then I would add above factory recommendations and may prevent the forks from using full travel, but to each their own. One problem with using air as a spring is that is is not just progressive but increases exponentially(wrong word, but I hope you get the point). The rate increases rapidly and with such a small volume as you have in a fork tube it can be difficult to control. As for the rear spring, a ride that feels stiff does not always mean the spring is stiff. It can also be that the spring is too soft and the suspension keeps bottoming, or the compression dampening is too much. Adjusting your free sag (unladen sag) and your race sag (laden sag) is the best way to determine if the spring is too soft or too hard or just right. How the bike "feels" can be misleading. If you are in the 150lb range the stock springs may be fine for you. Above 175 lbs you should consider stiffer springs in my opinion.

Well in theory I agree with you - I've always thought air springs are a bit of a daft idea, and I would have preferred rising rate mechanical springs. Unfortunately though the engineers at Ohlins appear to think differently, and so, as far as I know, the mechanical springs have no rising rate component. Instead the fork does rely on the air spring to provide this (maybe that's why Ohlins are so prone to leaking seals?). There isn't a factory recommended oil level as such - the manual makes it clear that the "correct" fluid height is the one that provides the required degree of rising rate, and as such the oil level is just another variable to be fine-tuned "to suit different tracks and riders" along with everything else. (The level that they come with as standard will no doubt have been specified by Guzzi). The graphs provided by Ohlins show the effect of different oil levels ranging from 80mm below the leg top to 110mm, so I presume Ohlins consider anywhere within this range to be within the range of normal adjustment. From memory, mine is now set somewhere in the middle of this range - it's certainly not at the extreme end. So in short, adjusting the oil level isn't a bodge - it's what Ohlins say you are supposed to do. Leaving it set as standard (i.e. as delivered) is like leaving the preload and damping settings as standard - it'll probably work, but it's unlikely to be ideal.

[docc]

Here is what I used to polish the exhaust system... this is some of the best metal polish we use in the piano business (and it works great on motorcycles too!) Master Formula Metal Gloss (Fullerton,CA (714)238-1129) Non abrasive and leaves a great shine. The Macallan is for after your done.

 

Franco

2002 V11 Scura

L.A. CA

 

BTW, what is the SCURA REGISTER?

 

Aye, then, Franco! Single malt goes well with fork oil as well!