gstallons Posted April 4, 2010 Posted April 4, 2010 Tracking = when the rear wheel follows directly behind the front wheel correctly,is the object of this procedure is very important. Use any device you want as long as the tools you use are straight. I use the bulbs because they are light.
docc Posted April 5, 2010 Posted April 5, 2010 Folks have used the bulb method for a long time. And, all kidding aside, you'll need at least six foot bulbs (eight foot is probably better). I used the laser method, marking the floor. Honestly, I discovered this after I removed my (damaged) swingarm, and had to install the replacement. I had not recorded the original pin positions. And, no, they are not just the same on both sides. After the careful alignment procedure, the bike tracked notably better, and turn in feel was improved. I think I got it closer than Luigi had time for . . .
Admin Jaap Posted April 5, 2010 Author Posted April 5, 2010 Thanks for all the useful info! After removing the swing arm I found out that one of the bearing is not really 100% fine anymore. If it was an easier job, I would have replaced w/o a second thought. Any input? oh... this is for you guys in the USA: The Little Dutch Boy is a very popular myth in the United States (and other countries), but is not well known in the Netherlands and has probably been imported there by American tourists.
Paul Minnaert Posted April 5, 2010 Posted April 5, 2010 Thanks for all the useful info! After removing the swing arm I found out that one of the bearing is not really 100% fine anymore. If it was an easier job, I would have replaced w/o a second thought. Any input? Well mine went out too, not because they were bad, but swingarm extension. The only way Starwin could get them out, was welding on the bearing, from that it shrinks. But you will need to repaint the swingarm. They only turm a few degrees.
gstallons Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 If you have not reassembled the bike, pry one of the seals out of the bearing and fill the bearing with wheel bearing grease. Do this to both bearings to prevent water intrusion and add to the life of the bearing. Please practice prying these seals out of the old bearing to understand what and how you are doing this.
pete roper Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 When I put mine back I just set it with the same number of threads on both sides, Even then there's no threads projecting from the nut. Can it really be that important to line front and back to the nearest mm? Roy No its not. Most tyres have more run out than that. It's anally retentive overkill. I measure how much they protrude with a vernier but anything more *accurate* than that i think completely un-neccessary. Pete
docc Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 So, Pete, you just set them the same on both sides and Bob's yer uncle? After starting from scratch (no swing arm), mine has ended up 0.079" (1.9mm) to the right using the anal retentive over-killer laser method. It is, in fact, little over 1% of the tire's width, but it feels great to be just right of center.
guzzimeister Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 Hi surprised at the need to chamge SA bearings, mine are OK after 47K. I have heard they are somewhat tough to remove..... I used the same method as Jaap to line up the SA, works alright for me. The frame is probably =/- 1mm anyway. I'm not a great rider so I probably wouldn't notice anyway Cheers Guzz
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