Bad Oil leak. Need help

[polebridge]

I just changed my oil for the start of the season. I removed the lower pan completely including disconnecting the oil line at the back. Took it for a ride to work. First thing I notice was that the rear tire took quite a slide coming off a turn under power. Then when I got to work I noticed a smell (the bike not my job). Looking things over I notice a slow drip coming off of the lower portion of the rear oil line (the one you need to remove to take off the lower sump pan). Checked tightness and it was OK. I checked the oil level and it was still acceptable to I took the bike home (carefully). I watched as my oil PSI dropped from 60 to 50.

 

Once home I did some more checking with the bike off and also with it running. Could not see a leak but there was oil on the rear tire, exhaust, and swingarm. I cleaned it up a bit and took the bike for a quick spin. When I stopped there was more oil dripping and a lot of smoke coming off of the pipes.

 

Today, I removed the oil line again to examine it. Here is what I found. At the tip there appears to be two small grooves. The groove that is furthest from the tip has a small green o-ring in it but the one near the tip does not. I am wondering it that is the problem. Maybe I somehow lost one of the two o-rings? Don't know. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also, if it is a missing o-ring, anyone have any idea where I can get a replacement? Maybe I will need to buy a whole new oil line.

 

Thanks,

Mike

[gstallons]

The 2002 parts manual i am looing at shows a part # 90 70 60 10 with 2 parts being required.Check w/your dealership for the 2004 application. Order more to have on hand.

 

 

[polebridge]

The 2002 parts manual i am looing at shows a part # 90 70 60 10 with 2 parts being required.Check w/your dealership for the 2004 application. Order more to have on hand.

Thanks,

 

I'll check it out. Hope it does not take all summer to get them!

 

Mike

[gstallons]

If you can't get speedy service call Joe Eish 330-738-3944. Great man to deal with.

[polebridge]

Ok,

 

I got the o-rings from MPH cycle and replaced the missing one. Darn thing is still leaking, although not as bad. Looks like I may have to truck it to the dealer for a look. I will ride it a few more times just in case the o-rings need to 'swell' a bit but if it still leaks I don't know what else to do at this point. In the meantime I am missing out on the nice weather we are having here in New Jersey.

 

What a PITA!

 

Mike

[Tom M]

This is no help to you now Mike but in the future you can drop the sump to change the filter etc without disconnecting that rear oil line. The one time I disconnected that line to repaint the sump I had a slight weep there when I put it back on the road. A little more torque on the nut got rid of the leak.

[Mulatron]

not sure whether this helps but i had a similar problem and replaced the oil line but this didn't cure the leak. eventually traced the problem to the oil breather pipe 9tat connects from the frame spinejust behind the headstock to the rear of the engine. the pipe had developed several cracks (common problem from what I understand) and was dripping onto the oil line and from there onto ground/rear tyre. also i've had a shock leak which mimiced a gearbox leak - so do check that th leak isn't originating from elsewhere

 

good luck

 

Tim

[polebridge]

Thank for the suggestions. I FINALLY got around to taking a closer look at this thing. Here is what I did and what I think at this point. First, I cleaned up as much of the oil mess as I could (pipes, swingarm, shaft, engine cases). I then took some paper towel and tied it around the oil line. At the bottom of the oil line, right where it feeds into the rear of the lower sump, is a collar and a small, solid, line with an elbow bend. This solid line connects from the collar to the part of the oil line that is flexible and steel braided.

 

I tied the paper towel right around the point where the solid line couples with the flexible steel braided line just above the collar on the lower sump. Took it for a quick ride. When I got back I noticed that there is no more oil on the pipes, swingarm, etc. Also found no oil above the paper towel on the oil line. However, the paper towel itself has soaked with oil and oil was dripping down the solid part of the line onto the collar.

 

So...I am assuming that what I really need here is a new oil line. Does this sound reasonable? I was also wondering if anyone else has had an oil line fail in this manner?

 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks everyone,

Mike

[Danr]

Thank for the suggestions. I FINALLY got around to taking a closer look at this thing. Here is what I did and what I think at this point. First, I cleaned up as much of the oil mess as I could (pipes, swingarm, shaft, engine cases). I then took some paper towel and tied it around the oil line. At the bottom of the oil line, right where it feeds into the rear of the lower sump, is a collar and a small, solid, line with an elbow bend. This solid line connects from the collar to the part of the oil line that is flexible and steel braided.

 

I tied the paper towel right around the point where the solid line couples with the flexible steel braided line just above the collar on the lower sump. Took it for a quick ride. When I got back I noticed that there is no more oil on the pipes, swingarm, etc. Also found no oil above the paper towel on the oil line. However, the paper towel itself has soaked with oil and oil was dripping down the solid part of the line onto the collar.

 

So...I am assuming that what I really need here is a new oil line. Does this sound reasonable? I was also wondering if anyone else has had an oil line fail in this manner?

 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks everyone,

Mike

 

Had the same problem with a new Norge, it would weep, solved it by using Teflon tape around the male nipple 3 years now and no problems. FWIW

[polebridge]

Had the same problem with a new Norge, it would weep, solved it by using Teflon tape around the male nipple 3 years now and no problems. FWIW

 

Thanks. I think I have ruled out a leak there. I think the leak is a bit further up the oil line based on my 'paper towel' test. I may just give this idea a try anyway though. I was actually considering some plumbers tape but wasn't sure if it was a good idea or not. Since it worked for you I guess it is but again, my leak is above the collar I think. Not where the end of the oil line (the male end) meets the lower sump but where the sold steel line (with the elbow bend) mates to the flexible steel braided oil line (just above where the line enters the sump).

 

Thanks,

Mike

[polebridge]

Finally got to take another look and I think I am in a lot worse trouble than I thought. I recently had to replace a broken 'pawl' spring (I think that is what it is called). To do this I had to remove the side plate that holds all the shifting components from the engine. It now looks like engine oil is leaking from where this plate mates to the rest of the transmission cases. Problem is that it is engine oil that is leaking, not transmission oil.

 

Have I somehow blown an engine seal? I am guessing that there should be no engine oil getting into the trany. I am growing very tired of all these nagging problems and just do not have time to deal with them. It looks like a two hour ride to the nearest Guzzi dealer and who knows how much to fix this problem. If the engine needs to be torn down I am done with Guzzi's. I want to ride, not deal with all of these headaches.

 

Any advice is much appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Mike

[raz]

There is almost not a chance engine oil could migrate to the gearbox as the whole dry clutch bevel are between them. Are you sure it's not coming from something ahead, like a blown base gasket or something, and just happen to land there and try to fool you? Sometimes turbulence does such things.

[richard100t]

When you remove the pan to change the oil its important to get the pan and the oil line back on right and tight. I would suggest that you try draining thr oil and take the pan back off and put it back on carefully. My bike has 37k miles on it and I have never used the manhole cover. I can recall that the oil will leak through the rear like a sieve if the pan isnt put back on just right with all the bolts torqued up. The oil could be coming from anywhere but since you said it started after the oil change I'm guessing the pan isnt tight.

[jrt]

There is almost not a chance engine oil could migrate to the gearbox as the whole dry clutch bevel are between them. Are you sure it's not coming from something ahead, like a blown base gasket or something, and just happen to land there and try to fool you? Sometimes turbulence does such things.

 

This is true.

 

I would focus elsewhere, like perhaps the oil line has a tear?

If you do use Teflon tape on any connection, be very careful in its application. Do not use too much andhavebits of tape pushing thorough your oil galleys. My brother once seized a truck engine that way. I use Teflon containing pipe dope, personally. The solids are much finer, and it is pretty versatile as a sealant.

[Baldini]

Did you check oil breather pipe as suggested by Mulatron above?

Can't see why engine oil would come from gbox plate - most likely migrating from somewhere else. Sure it's engine oil?

All nuts & bolts on sump & lines torqued up? There's gaskets between sump/sump spacer & spacer/block. O rings damaged on fitting? Sump plug washer OK? Any oil obvious toward front of motor/sump or elsewhere?

If you suspect elbow/flex joint, clean it all up, wrap a temporary fix around there, take it for a run & see if oil's still getting out.

There was no problem before you did work?

 

Good luck.