Yet another lube question

[Kiwi_Roy]

I feel guilty about all the questions I'm posting, I'm new to Guzzi. I have a good understanding

of general topics having ridden British bikes and a Suzuki. And have some expertize with electrics.

My Question

Is there an after market oil filter cross reference, Fram, Canadian Tire etc

My V11 has the large black round cover on the bottom of the sump. Is this just a cover over the

filter housing or will oil pour out if I unscrew it?

The cover needs a special tool, is this just part of the normal filter removal device sold at auto

stores or a special Guzzi only?

Thanks again

Roy

[ponti_33609]

My Question

Is there an after market oil filter cross reference, Fram, Canadian Tire etc

My V11 has the large black round cover on the bottom of the sump. Is this just a cover over the

filter housing or will oil pour out if I unscrew it? (Yes, oil will come out)

 

The man-hole cover is a 27mm and many have welded a 27mm nut to a handle/wrench. I bought something off eBay that fits on a socket. You can, in theory, change the filter through this opening without dropping the sump. Because I chose to add a hose clamp on my oil filter (to prevent un-screwing in the sump), I have always removed the 14 bolts and really doesn't take any longer IMHO.

 

I tried to do a quick search and can't find it but ther IS a thread here that contains all the cross refrence numbers. I know many have used the Mobil1 cross referenced filter and is carried at many Walmarts'.

 

Bob

[Admin Jaap]

Oil will definetly come out! When I change oil filters I always take off the sump. That way you can also check for residu. And from what I've heard replacing the filter through the cover is a pain.

Don't know any after market brands/part numbers, but it's a quite a common filter so there should be one or two.

[belfastguzzi]

Yes there are lists of alternatives here, but the general view that comes across from many examinations, is that the oe filters are best or as good as the best – and there are other makes that fit but they aren't as good. That's my understanding anyway.

[ponti_33609]

Quickie x-reference

 

Amsoil SMF125

Mobil 1 M1-102

Fram PH3614 (Bad Reviews on this site)

SuperTech ST3614 (Walmart Brand, built by Champion I recall?)

Purolator PL 1024

Champion PH2835

AC PF53

Motor-Craft FL-793

 

I too have been using UFI but many of these others, that are well respected like Champion/Mobil1, are available for around $4 bucks in the states (so at least half price and available lots of places) making it economical and easy when the urge to change the oil hits you!

 

Bob

[The Monkey]

If you do the thru-manhole routine Roy, an easy cheap tool is an 18mm nut. this has the 27mm outer hex measurement and the closed end spanner in your stock tool kit for removing the rear spindle nut is the right size for the job. Nut is plenty thick to recess into manhole cover and still have enough left for spindle spanner to grab. If you toast the seal Wraison seal has the 0-ring for you. I've been using UFI filters but notice a difference in the recent ones, requiring me to experiment with different filter removal tools, (the type actuated by a 3/8 rachet or drive bar from the centre, up thru manhole). None are fitting too well, this is a concern as getting that filter tight is key to the motors survival. Hunt up the thread that deals with this issue, and you can make up yer mind whether you want to piss about with the manhole. dropping the pan lets you clean her up better and allows a strap filter wrench for removal. It also gives you the room to install and tighten the filter conventionally. Some guys install a hose clamp to ensure that baby doesnt back off. Happy Reading

[Kiwi_Roy]

If you do the thru-manhole routine Roy, an easy cheap tool is an 18mm nut. this has the 27mm outer hex measurement and the closed end spanner in your stock tool kit for removing the rear spindle nut is the right size for the job. Nut is plenty thick to recess into manhole cover and still have enough left for spindle spanner to grab.

So that's what that loose nut in the tool kit is for, I have been puzzling over that.

Thanks for the tip

Roy

[Jamie]

So that's what that loose nut in the tool kit is for, I have been puzzling over that.

Thanks for the tip

Roy

 

 

So, how tight do we need to get this filter? In all my normal experiences with oil filters, I just used to get them hand tight. All manuals and other nomenclature states not to use a tool in order to further tighten the filter... Why is this, and why do the filters tend to back out in a Guzzi?

[gstallons]

? #1 answer= you want it tight enough to not come loose...

?#2 answer= I do not know why they come loose. An occasional mistake can be made and the filter come loose. This many times by so many different owners, they can't be all stupid.

That's why my UFI filter has a hose clamp around it. I can't afford the mistake and you shouldn't either.

p.s. As far as what you should do; you should do what you have the most confidence in. This is choices in oil, filter and installation procedure. That hose clamp might cost you $2:00. I don't know what a rebuild + towing from point a to b. costs.

[Dan M]

So, how tight do we need to get this filter? In all my normal experiences with oil filters, I just used to get them hand tight. All manuals and other nomenclature states not to use a tool in order to further tighten the filter... Why is this, and why do the filters tend to back out in a Guzzi?

 

Depends on the hand.

If you go through the manhole you can not get a good grip on the filter so you can not tighten it enough. There have been reports of filters loosening. Since it is internal you don't get the heads up that it is loose (a leak) so over time it can back off and you loose oil pressure. The issue is if it was tight enough to begin with. If you take the sump off, oil the gasket and tighten it a whole turn (or as tight as you can get it) by hand after the gasket makes full contact it will be plenty tight and it is very unlikely it will loosen on it's own. If you want insurance add a hose clamp. I have never had one come loose that I have put on by hand so I choose to be reckless and leave a clamp off.

[savagehenry]

I don't think it's such a big deal to just drop the pan every other oil change, so I haven't ever even loosened my manhole since buying the bike. There was some speculation that the clearence between the oil filter and the opening being pretty tight, using the wrong filter wrench, "it's hard to grip but I thought it was pretty tight ...", thus said filter getting under tightened. And thickness of the oil gasket vs. depth of recession into the bases threads. Your bike, your call in the end...

IF you get on 'er alot, especially off the lights/stops, you may also consider putting in a "Roper Plate". I haven't seen my red light on launches since mine went in...Check the "How to..." forum under "Roper Slopper" pinned there if you're not familiar with them...then check out "FAQ's" forum, just because...then, when you realize you've pissed away hours reading into 5 year old threads, think about buying Jaap a "virtual beer" on the homepage donation window if you're so inclined. With my filter spun to touching, then snugged,and clamp firmly in place, Good luck out there, S.H.

[ponti_33609]

 

I would be willing to bet that I could drop my pan and change the filter with clamp faster than messing with wrestling that filter out of the manholde cover and "hoping" she will never loosen on you (Well maybe not but I bet I am no more than 5 minutes behind you!). There are many posts here about this and although not everyone uses a clamp, there are reports (By respected Guzzi folks - Greg Field of MI has seen more than 1 as I recall) of more than one spinning loose and causing engine damage. So whether those people do not know what they are doing when they did their filter or something else is going on, why would you ever risk your engine for $1.95 at Home Depot? Just a thought.

 

Bob

[Kiwi_Roy]

Bob,

When you drop the pan, do you change the gasket each time?

What do you use in the way of gasket cement?

BTW, good picture of the hose clamp, I will follow the example.

Thanks

Roy

[gstallons]

You need to have plenty of gaskets for "just in case". I prefer a substance called Hylomar. You can apply it to both sides of the gasket surface and it wil come off and not stick to the metal surfaces. Buy some and play with it before you decide to use it. As with ANY sealer; just enough to squeeze out of the mating surfaces is enough.

[ponti_33609]

Bob,

When you drop the pan, do you change the gasket each time?

What do you use in the way of gasket cement?

BTW, good picture of the hose clamp, I will follow the example.

Thanks

Roy

 

 

Hi Roy- 3 oil changes for me. Changed gasket once. I only coated it with oil. I have not had leaks.

 

Bob