NakedV Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 Hi all. The bike has spent a couple of wet weekends away and there is considerable moisture build up inside the tach' which has started acting up. Logic says an electronic device full of moisture will be pretty unhappy. My plan is to remove the tach' and dry it out thoroughly and see if this returns it to normal. Before I can remove the bottom cover I will have to remove the trip knob from the speedo'. How does it come off? I don't want to force anything and risk breakage. Cheers all. Mick.
The Monkey Posted April 6, 2010 Posted April 6, 2010 Hi all. The bike has spent a couple of wet weekends away and there is considerable moisture build up inside the tach' which has started acting up. Logic says an electronic device full of moisture will be pretty unhappy. My plan is to remove the tach' and dry it out thoroughly and see if this returns it to normal. Before I can remove the bottom cover I will have to remove the trip knob from the speedo'. How does it come off? I don't want to force anything and risk breakage. Cheers all. Mick. trip reset knob is a left hand thread. Resets the odo one way, unscrews the other. go easy
NakedV Posted April 6, 2010 Author Posted April 6, 2010 trip reset knob is a left hand thread. Resets the odo one way, unscrews the other. go easy Will do and thanks. Mick.
luhbo Posted April 7, 2010 Posted April 7, 2010 Make sure you don't loose the knob after you have things together again. The trick is to find the right "Locktite", anything too strong and you won't get it out ever again. Saying this I suggest to leave the tachometer as it is. The water/vapor looks more as it really is. Some even say it's a typical thing. Hubert
NakedV Posted April 7, 2010 Author Posted April 7, 2010 Make sure you don't loose the knob after you have things together again. The trick is to find the right "Locktite", anything too strong and you won't get it out ever again. Saying this I suggest to leave the tachometer as it is. The water/vapor looks more as it really is. Some even say it's a typical thing. Hubert There has always been a little condensation inside the glass, Now it is really heavy droplets and the tach has started misbehaving, jumping from the correct reading to nothing then off the scale before returning to normal. I'm hoping drying it out will help.
guzzimeister Posted April 8, 2010 Posted April 8, 2010 There has always been a little condensation inside the glass, Now it is really heavy droplets and the tach has started misbehaving, jumping from the correct reading to nothing then off the scale before returning to normal. I'm hoping drying it out will help. Hi Concensus among V11 oiwners of my acquaintance is that if it doesn't mist up it will fail, if it does it keeps working. My first v11 was a dry tacho one, whereupon the tacho failed after 4000 miles. My current tacho is misty but is still working after 47000 miles... A word of warning. Tacho repeatedly dropping down to zero is an indication that the voltage supply to it is being lost. Two reasons, the +ve feed is intermittent through chafing, corrosion etc, or as I found out 50 miles from home, it happens when your battery has8v left in it as the result of a rectifier failure...... good early warning feature on V11s, the charge light didn't come on at all, beacuse it was charging but hardly enough to keep the battery going. Yours sounds like a genuine fault though Mick, but might be worth checking Guzz
Guzzi2Go Posted April 10, 2010 Posted April 10, 2010 Very often one of the moving coil lead breaks due to vibration. Especially if one of the rubber plugs holding the instruments comes off, like in one of the recent posts here. In these cases tach stops working and ocassionally "wakes up" when the broken lead accidentally touches its counterpart. There is an article in the Howto section on how to deal with this particular problem. Moisture inside the instrument is of no relevance. They all fog up as they are not sealed and there is no ventilation or air circulation between the glass/dial and the instrument body. The lamp heats up the air within the instrument body whereas the glass is constanly cooled by the moving air, resulting in condensation. The fact that the air cannot escape the space between the glass and the dial through any other route then the hole for the pointer spindle certainly does not help. Speedo seems to be properly vented through the holes for mileage counters and does not exhibit the same problem. So much for the theory.
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